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AWD binding- bad C selenoid - New idea look!

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With a hopelessly binding AWD system and an estimate of $ 1,400 to replace the duty © selenoid and the AWD clutch pack, now I am searching for alternatives. What if I just remove the driveshaft? (!) That's something I can do for free. Am I right?

 

I live in Atlanta and we surely didn't get this Outback because it had AWD. Am I missing something? I suppose I will have to plug the driveshaft hole in the transfer case. That should be easy enough - I own a small machine shop.

 

But am I missing something?

 

Thanks for all replies

 

Paul

  • 2 weeks later...

How about inserting a fuse to disable the AWD. I have read in this forum that you may leave it in permanent, if you so desire. On a 93 legacy this fuse holder is located on the passenger side close to the strut mount. It has "AWD" written on it. You can read about this in your owners manual. It's located in the towing section.

The only problem is that I believe insertion of the fuse relies on duty solenoid C to supply 2WD operation via hydraulic pressure.

  • 1 month later...

Paul,

 

I'm curious -- did you ever attempt to drop the rear DS and run as a Front Wheel Drive vehicle? Has that worked for you?? It is something that I'm considering when I tear into my transfer clutch this weekend, if I find that I need more than a Duty Solenoid C replacement.

 

WB

 

With a hopelessly binding AWD system and an estimate of $ 1,400 to replace the duty © selenoid and the AWD clutch pack, now I am searching for alternatives. What if I just remove the driveshaft? (!) That's something I can do for free. Am I right?

 

I live in Atlanta and we surely didn't get this Outback because it had AWD. Am I missing something? I suppose I will have to plug the driveshaft hole in the transfer case. That should be easy enough - I own a small machine shop.

 

But am I missing something?

 

Thanks for all replies

 

Paul

Normal driving mode has a 90% front, 10% rear, torque split. I would not think that removing the rear driveshafts would be a good idea, in light of this.

 

Also, I believe Blitz is on to something. I would start by replacing the solenoid and crossing my fingers.

Will do, as my replacement solenoid should be delivered on Friday. I just hope that I find clean, un-galled plates in the clutch when I get the extension assembly off! :grin:

If the duty c solenoid is functioning, stick a fuse in the FWD holder. This will cause all line pressure to bypass the clutch plates.

 

If the duty c solenoid is not operational, putting the fuse in won't do anything.

 

About removing the driveshaft. I suppose you could do that....but it's going to play hell with your TCU and shifting. I'm not sure what the rear output shaft will do in terms of rotating and speed difference between the front.

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