2013 EZ36 with Haltech into 1998 GF Impreza Outback sport wiring plumbing etc

[pontoontodd]

I'm going to try to make this guide as comprehensive as I can for setting up an EZ36 with a Haltech Elite 2500.  Haltech does have some good wiring instructions on their website for the EZ30 but the EZ36 is significantly different.  I also had someone share with me a base map for EZ36 but it's for the older (ESP) version of the Haltech software, so I will try to post that once I get it working well, probably after some dyno tuning too.  Will also include specific wiring for putting this in a first gen Impreza (specifically 98 GF in my case, the older first gens definitely have different wiring in the instrument cluster if nothing else).

Edited January 30 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

I used the Haltech fusebox kit which has four fuses and relays for ECU, injectors, ignition, and fuel pump.

Chart of wires from the Haltech and which pins on the engine connector and throttle pedal I ran them to.

	Main connector 34 pin (Elite 2500) looking into connector on ECU 1-9 left to right top row
	EZ36 ECU	Haltech	Wire Colour	Connection
EVAP		1	V/BR	DPO 2
	Pedal 5	2	O/Y	AVI 4
	9	3	Y/B	IGN 1
	20	4	Y/R	IGN 2
	31	5	Y/O	IGN 3
	10	6	Y/G	IGN 4
	50	7	Y/BR	IGN 5
	44	8	Y/L	IGN 6
	28, pedal 1&3	9	O	+5V DC
	GND	10	B	BATTERY GROUND
	GND	11	B	BATTERY GROUND
	-	12	O/W	+8V DC
	IGN	13	P	12V IGNITION INPUT
AC request		14	W	AVI 10 ( TPS )
	23	15	Y	AVI 9 ( MAP )
	25	16	O/B	AVI 2
	24	17	O/R	AVI 3
tach		18	V/B	DPO 1
	54	19	L	INJ 1
	53	20	L/B	INJ 2
	52	21	L/BR	INJ 3
	51	22	L/R	INJ 4
AC clutch relay		23	V/R	DPO 3
Haltech relays		24	B/Y	DPO 5 ( FUEL PUMP TRIGGER)
Haltech relays		25	B/R	DPO 6 ( ECR OUT)
Haltech relays		26	R/L	ECU INJECTOR POWER INPUT (REQUIRED CONNECTION FOR ECU TO OPERATE)
	47	27	L/O	INJ 5
	46	28	L/Y	INJ 6
		29	L/G	INJ 7
		30	L/V	INJ 8
IN2	22	31	G	STEPPER 1 P1 / DPO
IN1 (LH)	33	32	G/B	STEPPER 1 P2 / DPO
EX1	43	33	G/BR	STEPPER 1 P3 / DPO
EX2	17	34	G/R	STEPPER 1 P4 / DPO
	Main connector 26 pin (Elite 2500) looking into connector on ECU 1-7 left to right top row
	EZ36 ECU	Haltech	Wire Colour	Connection
	3	1	Y (SHD)	CRANK (TRIGGER) ( + )
Inangle1 (LH)	13	2	Y (SHD)	CAM (HOME) ( + )
		3	GY	AVI 7 (AIR TEMP)
	12	4	V	AVI 8 (COOLANT TEMP)
	14	5	G (SHD)	CRANK (TRIGGER) ( - )
	5	6	G (SHD)	CAM (HOME) ( - )
		7	GY/R (SHD)	SPI 4
Inangle2	2	8	GY (SHD)	SPI 1
Exangle1	26	9	GY/B (SHD)	SPI 2
Exangle2	15	10	GY/BR (SHD)	SPI 3
	IGN	11	R/W	+13.8V ECU SUPPLY (ECU POWER)
		12	GY/O (SHD)	AVI 6 (O2 INPUT 1)
		13	GY/Y (SHD)	AVI 1 (O2 INPUT 2 )
	6,34,35,36,37,40	14	B/W	SIGNAL GROUND
	Pedal 4	15	B/W	SIGNAL GROUND
	Pedal 6	16	B/W	SIGNAL GROUND
CEL		17	Y/V	IGN 7
		18	Y/GY	IGN 8
FAN relay		19	V/O	DPO 4
	Pedal 2	20	O/G	AVI 5
	4	21	GY/G	KNOCK 1
	1	22	GY/L	KNOCK 2
CAN O2		23	W	CAN H
CAN O2		24	L	CAN L
	39	25	BR/B	DBW 1 / DPO
	38	26	BR/R	DBW 2 / DPO

Edited January 30 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Going the other way, wire colors to the ECU connector for reference.

		2013 EZ36 pinout
color (car)		B21 54 pin	color (engine side)
	GY/L	1	Lg	knock sensor 2 (signal)
	GY	2	GR	intake cam pos sensor RH (signal?)
	Y	3	W	crank position sensor	Also 14
	GY/G	4	LR	knock sensor 1 (signal)
	G	5	Lg	intake&exhaust cam pos sensor LH&RH (ground?)
	B/W	6	YG	throttle control, MAP, coolant & oil temp sensor, knock sensor 1&2 (ground)
IGN	GY/R	7	L	exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve RH
		8	B Or	EGR control solenoid valve
	Y/B	9	RY	ignition coil 1
	Y/G	10	WL	ignition coil 4
		11	RG	purge control solenoid valve (signal?)
gauge	V	12	BrW	coolant temp sensor (signal)
	Y	13	G	intake cam pos sensor LH (signal?)
	G	14	B	crank position sensor	Also 3
	GY/BR	15	BY	exhaust cam pos sensor RH (signal?)
		16	W	oil level switch	switched to ground
	G/R	17	L Or	exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve RH
		18	PB	power steering oil pressure switch	switched to ground
		19	BL	EGR control solenoid valve
	Y/R	20	YG	ignition coil 2
IGN	GY/R	21	L	intake oil flow control solenoid valve RH
	G	22	R	intake oil flow control solenoid valve RH
	Y	23	YB	MAP (signal?)
	O/R	24	Or	throttle control	signal?
	O/B	25	W	throttle control	signal?
	GY/B	26	G	exhaust cam pos sensor LH (signal?)
gauge		27	L	engine oil temp sensor (signal)
	O	28	LY	throttle control, MAP (power?)
		29	YR	EGR control solenoid valve
		30	Y	EGR control solenoid valve
	Y/O	31	GW	ignition coil 3
IGN	GY/R	32	GY	intake oil flow control solenoid valve LH
	G/B	33	RY	intake oil flow control solenoid valve LH
	B/W	34	BP	ground for ECU?
	B/W	35	LR	ground for ECU?
	B/W	36	WR	ground for ECU?	(coil ground?)
	B/W	37	LR	ground for ECU?
	BR/R	38	BW	throttle control
	BR/B	39	BL	throttle control
	B/W	40	BP	ground for ECU?
		41
IGN	GY/R	42	R	exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve LH
	G/BR	43	RW	exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve LH
	Y/L	44	BY	ignition coil 6
gauge cluster		45	G Or	oil pressure switch	switched to ground
	L/Y	46	GW	fuel injector 6
	L/O	47	Br	fuel injector 5
	R/L HTFB	48	YL	intake&exhaust cam pos sensor LH&RH, fuel injectors 1-6, purge control solenoid valve (power?)
	R/Y HTFB	49	LB	ignition coil 1-6 (power – ignition relay?)
	Y/BR	50	BL	ignition coil 5
	L/R	51	RG	fuel injector 4
	L/BR	52	G Or	fuel injector 3
	L/B	53	LR	fuel injector 2
	L	54	Lg	fuel injector 1
	HTFB = Haltech fusebox
		STI accelerator pedal pinout (left to right looking at harness connector)
	O	1	sub	5V+
	O/G	2	sub	signal (analog)
	O	3	main	5V+
	B/W	4	main	ground
	O/Y	5	main	signal (analog)
	B/W	6	sub	ground

[pontoontodd]

As noted above this is for an STI accelerator pedal, I think the pinouts on the Legacy/Outback and possibly the one shown on the Haltech site are different so definitely verify that.

Most of that was figured out from the basemap I got, Haltech's site and instructions (their color coded wiring diagrams are great) and the FSMs.

One minor hurdle we had was the Haltech EZ30 basemap being set up for a PWM pump (I think), had to switch that to the B/Y wire so it would actually turn on the fuel pump.  Fuel pump seems to run continuously with ignition on even if the engine isn't running, haven't looked to see if or how that can be changed yet.

Also had to adjust the pot position on the accelerator pedal to keep from getting an error at full throttle.  Simple, just two phillips screws. 

Also have to calibrate the accelerator pedal and DBW throttle, also simple, just follow prompts on the screen.

Edited January 30 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Download the FSM from jdmfsm.info, most of the following is from that.

Pinned out connector to EZ36

Some Impreza specific wiring:

Was looking for a good source of 12VDC with the ignition on that's not shared by any other fuses.  Since we removed the airbags, computer, and wiring, it was convenient to tap into the airbag harness connector near the dead pedal.  Ran the pink wire from pin 13 of the Haltech to that.

Pin 6 connector B31 red wire as seen below:

Almost spliced into the B/R wire running to the fuel pump by the passenger footwell but decided to tap into the connector that normally goes to the fuel pump relay (white thing on the left side of the picture).  Ran the orange/blue wire from the Haltech fuse box there.

Pin 4 of B46 black/red wire as shown below:

Also wanted a dedicated but fused battery voltage source so tapped into the ABS connector since that will no longer be functional.  Goes through the main 80A fuse and a 50A fuse in the main fuse box and then over to the ABS module (W/R wire marked B).  Plugged the red, red/white, and red/green wires for the Haltech fuse box in to that.

Used a large ground wire there too (black wire marked G), ran the black ground wire from pins 10 and 11 of the Haltech to that.

Pins 23 (black) and 25 (white/red) of F49 as seen below:

Simplest way I could figure to do the starter circuit was to splice these two wires (large W/R and W/B) that originally went to the shifter on the auto trans.  Cut them on the large side of the factory splices and spliced them together.

Large white/red and white/black wires of B12 as shown below:

For some reason we had to unplug the stock ECU for this all to work properly but we were obviously going to do that regardless.

I plan on adding more detail to the above and other wiring as I have time.

Edited January 31 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Most of the wiring and modules we removed.  Keyless entry, airbags, TCU, ECU, aftermarket cruise wiring.

At first we couldn't remove the ignition key from the lock cylinder even in the off position.  If you plug the shifter (big white thing) in to that white wire plug and have it in park, then you can remove the key.

Those blue and red wires go the park position sensor.

The two black wires below that go to the lock cylinder seem to be the culprit.

If you unplug them at this connector under the steering column you can take the key out normally.  Then you don't have to deal with the park position sensor.  The black connector with two white wires is the other side of the connector.

Alternator wiring.  The two big white wires go to the large post.  Then the black/white wire is the same on both cars so I spliced those.  Spliced the other one.  I did order a wire plug for this so I can get rid of the splices.

Spliced a wire off the EZ36 coolant temp sensor to the dash but that caused the Haltech and dash to read low.  Thought about running an output from the Haltech to the temp gauge, maybe I will eventually but I installed an EZ30 coolant temp sensor.  Same threads, has three pins instead of two.  In the EZ30(D) cars, one pin (2) goes to the ECU, the other one goes to the gauge.  I was hoping this would make the sensor read more accurately on the Haltech (I think it reads about 20F higher than actual) since that's what the base map was set up for but it seems to read the same as the 2 pin sensor.  I ran this purple wire from pin 3 under the intake in some small loom.

Put a spade connection near the engine harness plug.

Unfortunately this didn't accomplish much.  Seems to read the same as the EZ36 sensor on the Haltech.  Gauge fairly quickly goes beyond H as soon as the engine starts warming up.  For reference, the 2001 EZ30(D) sensor reads:

4.6kohms 30F

2.7kohms 60F

190 ohms 212F (not sure how accurate this is)

The 98 Impreza gauge reads:

100 ohms (to ground) H

120 ohms 2/3

150 ohms top of C

180 ohms bottom of C

After some trial and error I spliced a 100 ohm resistor between the gauge and sensor and now the gauge and needle is in the middle at operating temp (200-210F on the Haltech).

 

Here we have the wires for the instrument cluster.

connector a/i10

pin 1&3 speedometer (not working yet, see below)

pin 8  R/W  check engine light (from Haltech)

pin 9  G/W  oil pressure switch (from engine)

pin 10  G  tachometer (from Haltech)

connector c/i11

pin 3 Y/G auto trans oil temp (spliced to EZ36 oil level switch, see below)

pin 11  W/G  coolant temperature (see above)

Edited Wednesday at 10:30 PM by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Leaving this post mostly empty for future gauge cluster updates.

EZ36 has an oil level sensor so I figured, why not run that to one of the unused idiot lights?  It's pin 16 of the EZ36 engine connector (white wire).  Spliced it to the AT temp light since that's no longer a concern.  Unfortunately the oil level switch is apparently closed when the oil level is normal.  So the light is basically always on.  It does turn off while turning left.  If anyone knows of a simple way to switch this to be normally open (without a relay or something) I'm all ears.

 

Z and I did a lot of probing and testing of the fuel gauge circuit and long story short he eventually noticed that the ground for the sender goes to the engine.  We grounded that pin of the original engine harness (black red, pin 16 of the 16 pin connector shown below) and the fuel gauge seemed to work.  I'll probably get a legit connector for that.  Might be able to use it for the temp gauge too.  Otherwise there's several other places that sender could get grounded.

Edited Tuesday at 01:16 AM by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

My first thought on the speedo was that Subarus are Legos so that should be simple.  Unfortunately not.  The automatic appears to use a 2 pin reluctor (VSS2) for the speedometer.  The 6MT has a 3 pin Hall effect sensor VSS.  First step was to wire the 6MT VSS to the Haltech (SPI4 in my case).  From left to right looking at the wiring harness plug with the latch on top, colors are Haltech:

pin 1 GyR (large/shielded, inner wire is orange) signal SPI4

pin 2 BW ground

pin 3 GyR (small) +12VDC

Have to calibrate it but that seemed to give us a vehicle speed on the Haltech.  Need to take a picture.

Next step is to set up one of the outputs of the Haltech to get the speedometer working.  I think I know how just haven't done it yet.

 

A few weeks ago we got the reverse lights working.  Spliced a connector on the wires (GB pin 9, BrY pin 10) that normally go to the 12 pin gray auto trans connector to pins 3 and 6 of a connector that plugs into the STI 6MT harness.  Both reverse light bulbs were a little corroded so we cleaned those up.  Then it seemed like we had to shift it in and out of reverse a few times before they'd consistently light up, maybe the switch on the trans was a little sticky or dirty.

Edited Tuesday at 01:28 AM by pontoontodd