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2013 EZ36 with Haltech into 1998 GF Impreza Outback sport wiring plumbing etc


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I'm going to try to make this guide as comprehensive as I can for setting up an EZ36 with a Haltech Elite 2500.  Haltech does have some good wiring instructions on their website for the EZ30 but the EZ36 is significantly different.  I also had someone share with me a base map for EZ36 but it's for the older (ESP) version of the Haltech software, so I will try to post that once I get it working well, probably after some dyno tuning too.  Will also include specific wiring for putting this in a first gen Impreza (specifically 98 GF in my case, the older first gens definitely have different wiring in the instrument cluster if nothing else).


Edited by pontoontodd
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I used the Haltech fusebox kit which has four fuses and relays for ECU, injectors, ignition, and fuel pump.

Chart of wires from the Haltech and which pins on the engine connector and throttle pedal I ran them to.

  Main connector 34 pin (Elite 2500) looking into connector on ECU 1-9 left to right top row
  EZ36 ECU Haltech Wire Colour Connection
  Pedal 5 2 O/Y AVI 4
  9 3 Y/B IGN 1
  20 4 Y/R IGN 2
  31 5 Y/O IGN 3
  10 6 Y/G IGN 4
  50 7 Y/BR IGN 5
  44 8 Y/L IGN 6
  28, pedal 1&3 9 O +5V DC
  - 12 O/W +8V DC
AC request   14 W AVI 10 ( TPS )
  23 15 Y AVI 9 ( MAP )
  25 16 O/B AVI 2
  24 17 O/R AVI 3
tach   18 V/B DPO 1
  54 19 L INJ 1
  53 20 L/B INJ 2
  52 21 L/BR INJ 3
  51 22 L/R INJ 4
AC clutch relay   23 V/R DPO 3
Haltech relays   24 B/Y DPO 5 ( FUEL PUMP TRIGGER)
Haltech relays   25 B/R DPO 6 ( ECR OUT)
Haltech relays   26 R/L ECU INJECTOR POWER INPUT
  47 27 L/O INJ 5
  46 28 L/Y INJ 6
    29 L/G INJ 7
    30 L/V INJ 8
IN2 22 31 G STEPPER 1 P1 / DPO
IN1 (LH) 33 32 G/B STEPPER 1 P2 / DPO
EX1 43 33 G/BR STEPPER 1 P3 / DPO
EX2 17 34 G/R STEPPER 1 P4 / DPO
  Main connector 26 pin (Elite 2500) looking into connector on ECU 1-7 left to right top row
  EZ36 ECU Haltech Wire Colour Connection
  3 1 Y (SHD) CRANK (TRIGGER) ( + )
Inangle1 (LH) 13 2 Y (SHD) CAM (HOME) ( + )
    3 GY AVI 7 (AIR TEMP)
  14 5 G (SHD) CRANK (TRIGGER) ( - )
  5 6 G (SHD) CAM (HOME) ( - )
    7 GY/R (SHD) SPI 4
Inangle2 2 8 GY (SHD) SPI 1
Exangle1 26 9 GY/B (SHD) SPI 2
Exangle2 15 10 GY/BR (SHD) SPI 3
    12 GY/O (SHD) AVI 6 (O2 INPUT 1)
    13 GY/Y (SHD) AVI 1 (O2 INPUT 2 )
  6,34,35,36,37,40 14 B/W SIGNAL GROUND
  Pedal 4 15 B/W SIGNAL GROUND
  Pedal 6 16 B/W SIGNAL GROUND
CEL   17 Y/V IGN 7
    18 Y/GY IGN 8
FAN relay   19 V/O DPO 4
  Pedal 2 20 O/G AVI 5
  4 21 GY/G KNOCK 1
  1 22 GY/L KNOCK 2
CAN O2   23 W CAN H
CAN O2   24 L CAN L
  39 25 BR/B DBW 1 / DPO
  38 26 BR/R DBW 2 / DPO
Edited by pontoontodd
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Going the other way, wire colors to the ECU connector for reference.

    2013 EZ36 pinout        
color (car) B21 54 pin color (engine side)      
  GY/L 1 Lg knock sensor 2 (signal)      
  GY 2 GR intake cam pos sensor RH (signal?)      
  Y 3 W crank position sensor Also 14    
  GY/G 4 LR knock sensor 1 (signal)      
  G 5 Lg intake&exhaust cam pos sensor LH&RH (ground?)
  B/W 6 YG throttle control, MAP, coolant & oil temp sensor, knock sensor 1&2 (ground)
IGN GY/R 7 L exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve RH      
    8 B Or EGR control solenoid valve      
  Y/B 9 RY ignition coil 1      
  Y/G 10 WL ignition coil 4      
    11 RG purge control solenoid valve (signal?)      
gauge V 12 BrW coolant temp sensor (signal)      
  Y 13 G intake cam pos sensor LH (signal?)      
  G 14 B crank position sensor Also 3    
  GY/BR 15 BY exhaust cam pos sensor RH (signal?)      
    16 W oil level switch switched to ground    
  G/R 17 L Or exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve RH      
    18 PB power steering oil pressure switch switched to ground    
    19 BL EGR control solenoid valve      
  Y/R 20 YG ignition coil 2      
IGN GY/R 21 L intake oil flow control solenoid valve RH      
  G 22 R intake oil flow control solenoid valve RH      
  Y 23 YB MAP (signal?)      
  O/R 24 Or throttle control signal?    
  O/B 25 W throttle control signal?    
  GY/B 26 G exhaust cam pos sensor LH (signal?)      
gauge   27 L engine oil temp sensor (signal)      
  O 28 LY throttle control, MAP (power?)      
    29 YR EGR control solenoid valve      
    30 Y EGR control solenoid valve      
  Y/O 31 GW ignition coil 3      
IGN GY/R 32 GY intake oil flow control solenoid valve LH      
  G/B 33 RY intake oil flow control solenoid valve LH      
  B/W 34 BP ground for ECU?      
  B/W 35 LR ground for ECU?      
  B/W 36 WR ground for ECU? (coil ground?)    
  B/W 37 LR ground for ECU?      
  BR/R 38 BW throttle control      
  BR/B 39 BL throttle control      
  B/W 40 BP ground for ECU?      
IGN GY/R 42 R exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve LH      
  G/BR 43 RW exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve LH      
  Y/L 44 BY ignition coil 6      
gauge cluster   45 G Or oil pressure switch switched to ground    
  L/Y 46 GW fuel injector 6      
  L/O 47 Br fuel injector 5      
  R/L HTFB 48 YL intake&exhaust cam pos sensor LH&RH, fuel injectors 1-6, purge control solenoid valve (power?)      
  R/Y HTFB 49 LB ignition coil 1-6 (power – ignition relay?)      
  Y/BR 50 BL ignition coil 5      
  L/R 51 RG fuel injector 4      
  L/BR 52 G Or fuel injector 3      
  L/B 53 LR fuel injector 2      
  L 54 Lg fuel injector 1      
  HTFB = Haltech fusebox        
    STI accelerator pedal pinout (left to right looking at harness connector)  
  O 1 sub 5V+      
  O/G 2 sub signal (analog)      
  O 3 main 5V+      
  B/W 4 main ground      
  O/Y 5 main signal (analog)      
  B/W 6 sub ground      
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As noted above this is for an STI accelerator pedal, I think the pinouts on the Legacy/Outback and possibly the one shown on the Haltech site are different so definitely verify that.

Most of that was figured out from the basemap I got, Haltech's site and instructions (their color coded wiring diagrams are great) and the FSMs.

One minor hurdle we had was the Haltech EZ30 basemap being set up for a PWM pump (I think), had to switch that to the B/Y wire so it would actually turn on the fuel pump.  Fuel pump seems to run continuously with ignition on even if the engine isn't running, haven't looked to see if or how that can be changed yet.

Also had to adjust the pot position on the accelerator pedal to keep from getting an error at full throttle.  Simple, just two phillips screws. 


Also have to calibrate the accelerator pedal and DBW throttle, also simple, just follow prompts on the screen.

Edited by pontoontodd
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Download the FSM from jdmfsm.info, most of the following is from that.

Pinned out connector to EZ36


Some Impreza specific wiring:

Was looking for a good source of 12VDC with the ignition on that's not shared by any other fuses.  Since we removed the airbags, computer, and wiring, it was convenient to tap into the airbag harness connector near the dead pedal.  Ran the pink wire from pin 13 of the Haltech to that.


Pin 6 connector B31 red wire as seen below:


Almost spliced into the B/R wire running to the fuel pump by the passenger footwell but decided to tap into the connector that normally goes to the fuel pump relay (white thing on the left side of the picture).  Ran the orange/blue wire from the Haltech fuse box there.


Pin 4 of B46 black/red wire as shown below:


Also wanted a dedicated but fused battery voltage source so tapped into the ABS connector since that will no longer be functional.  Goes through the main 80A fuse and a 50A fuse in the main fuse box and then over to the ABS module (W/R wire marked B).  Plugged the red, red/white, and red/green wires for the Haltech fuse box in to that.

Used a large ground wire there too (black wire marked G), ran the black ground wire from pins 10 and 11 of the Haltech to that.



Pins 23 (black) and 25 (white/red) of F49 as seen below:


Simplest way I could figure to do the starter circuit was to splice these two wires (large W/R and W/B) that originally went to the shifter on the auto trans.  Cut them on the large side of the factory splices and spliced them together.



Large white/red and white/black wires of B12 as shown below:


For some reason we had to unplug the stock ECU for this all to work properly but we were obviously going to do that regardless.

I plan on adding more detail to the above and other wiring as I have time.

Edited by pontoontodd
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  • 2 weeks later...

Most of the wiring and modules we removed.  Keyless entry, airbags, TCU, ECU, aftermarket cruise wiring.


At first we couldn't remove the ignition key from the lock cylinder even in the off position.  If you plug the shifter (big white thing) in to that white wire plug and have it in park, then you can remove the key.


Those blue and red wires go the park position sensor.


The two black wires below that go to the lock cylinder seem to be the culprit.


If you unplug them at this connector under the steering column you can take the key out normally.  Then you don't have to deal with the park position sensor.  The black connector with two white wires is the other side of the connector.


Alternator wiring.  The two big white wires go to the large post.  Then the black/white wire is the same on both cars so I spliced those.  Spliced the other one.  I did order a wire plug for this so I can get rid of the splices.


Spliced a wire off the EZ36 coolant temp sensor to the dash but that caused the Haltech and dash to read low.  Thought about running an output from the Haltech to the temp gauge, maybe I will eventually but I installed an EZ30 coolant temp sensor.  Same threads, has three pins instead of two.  In the EZ30(D) cars, one pin (2) goes to the ECU, the other one goes to the gauge.  I was hoping this would make the sensor read more accurately on the Haltech (I think it reads about 20F higher than actual) since that's what the base map was set up for but it seems to read the same as the 2 pin sensor.  I ran this purple wire from pin 3 under the intake in some small loom.


Put a spade connection near the engine harness plug.


Unfortunately this didn't accomplish much.  Seems to read the same as the EZ36 sensor on the Haltech.  Gauge fairly quickly goes beyond H as soon as the engine starts warming up.  For reference, the 2001 EZ30(D) sensor reads:

4.6kohms 30F

2.7kohms 60F

190 ohms 212F (not sure how accurate this is)

The 98 Impreza gauge reads:

100 ohms (to ground) H

120 ohms 2/3

150 ohms top of C

180 ohms bottom of C

After some trial and error I spliced a 100 ohm resistor between the gauge and sensor and now the gauge and needle is in the middle at operating temp (200-210F on the Haltech).  This was without the ground for the temp and fuel gauges grounded (see below, pin 16 of the 16 pin EJ connector).  After we grounded that, I removed the 100 ohm resistor and the temp gauge is functional.  Seems to read low though, at normal operating temp (200-210F according to the Haltech but probably a little lower than that) the temp gauge only reads about 1/3.  As long as it's consistent it should be good.


Here we have the wires for the instrument cluster.

connector a/i10

pin 1&3 speedometer (not working yet, see below)

pin 8  R/W  check engine light (from Haltech)

pin 9  G/W  oil pressure switch (from engine)

pin 10  G  tachometer (from Haltech)

connector c/i11

pin 3 Y/G auto trans oil temp (spliced to EZ36 oil level switch, see below)

pin 11  W/G  coolant temperature (see above)


Edited by pontoontodd
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  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Leaving this post mostly empty for future gauge cluster updates.

EZ36 has an oil level sensor so I figured, why not run that to one of the unused idiot lights?  It's pin 16 of the EZ36 engine connector (white wire).  Spliced it to the AT temp light since that's no longer a concern.  Unfortunately the oil level switch is apparently closed when the oil level is normal.  So the light is basically always on.  It does turn off while turning left or braking hard.  If anyone knows of a simple way to switch this to be normally open (without a relay or something) I'm all ears.



Z and I did a lot of probing and testing of the fuel gauge circuit and long story short he eventually noticed that the ground for the sender goes to the engine.  We grounded that pin of the original engine harness (black red, pin 16 of the 16 pin EJ connector shown below) and the fuel gauge seems to work well now.  I think it's also a ground for the temp gauge.  Certainly makes the temp gauge read higher when grounded (see above).


Cleaner wiring below



Edited by pontoontodd
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Posted (edited)

My first thought on the speedo was that Subarus are Legos so that should be simple.  Unfortunately not.  The automatic appears to use a 2 pin reluctor (VSS2) for the speedometer.  The 6MT has a 3 pin Hall effect sensor VSS.  First step was to wire the 6MT VSS to the Haltech (SPI4 in my case).  From left to right looking at the wiring harness plug with the latch on top, colors are Haltech:

pin 1 GyR (large/shielded, inner wire is orange) signal SPI4

pin 2 BW ground

pin 3 GyR (small) +12VDC

Have to calibrate it but that seemed to give us a vehicle speed on the Haltech.  Need to take a picture.

Next step is to set up one of the outputs of the Haltech to get the speedometer working.  I think I know how just haven't done it yet.


A few weeks ago we got the reverse lights working.  Spliced a connector on the wires (GB pin 9, BrY pin 10) that normally go to the 12 pin gray auto trans connector to pins 3 and 6 of a connector that plugs into the STI 6MT harness.  Both reverse light bulbs were a little corroded so we cleaned those up.  Then it seemed like we had to shift it in and out of reverse a few times before they'd consistently light up, maybe the switch on the trans was a little sticky or dirty.



Edited by pontoontodd
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Leaving this open for AC wiring/control.  Haven't found anyone who knows how the EZ36 compressor is normally controlled.  So I'm going to make a little jumper harness to plug in line with some long wires going in the car and drive around a completely stock EZ36 Outback and see what kind of voltage it's giving that solenoid.  If I can figure that out and the temp/frost sensor on the evaporator I should be able to have decent AC.

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Posted (edited)

Leaving this open for cruise control/wiring.  B and I were looking over it on the Haltech and you need three safety inputs - brake switch, clutch pedal switch, and neutral switch.  All on separate inputs.  On a stock Subaru the pedal switches are just wired in series so if one of them goes open it shuts off cruise control.  Not sure how they do neutral.  Wondering if I can tell the Haltech it's an automatic and wire the switches in series.

The Haltech uses one input wire for the various cruise functions, then you wire in resistors so each button sends a different voltage.

We figured out the pinout/continuity for the cruise stalk for set and resume but not for cancel.  Not a problem but weird.

At this point I'm out of inputs, the Haltech has ten analog inputs and four of them are for the drive by wire.  Four digital inputs but those are all used by the cams and VSS.  So I need to get an expansion module.  Something I didn't fully consider when picking an ECU.

On the plus side with a little trial and error and math we have the vehicle speed on the Haltech agreeing with GPS now.

Edited by pontoontodd
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I thought the best place to put the ECU would be behind the passenger side airbag panel so B made up this mounting plate for the ECU, fusebox, and dual wideband.






DBW pedal wasn't a direct bolt in so we had to make an adaptor plate.




Edited by pontoontodd
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Posted (edited)

Used the Impreza lines from the rack and bent them around and used 2013 Outback pump and hoses and reservoir for the power steering.



To be safe I used this drop in DeatschWerks fuel pump.  I've read the turbo Subaru fuel pump is also adequate.


I used an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set that so we're at about 70% duty cycle on the injectors at WOT and high RPM (about 35psi with the engine running). 


Drilled and tapped the fuel rails for return lines as the EZ36 is returnless.


Routed AN lines to fit under the injector covers but this does make the injectors difficult to unplug.


Edited by pontoontodd
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Posted (edited)

I used Raptor headers that we shortened about 1" for more ground clearance.  Extended one side with stainless for better clearance between axle and O2 sensor and flange.  Not hard to believe these headers add about 10% more power over stock.  A better solution might be to build a set with primaries that are all next to and level with each other for more ground clearance.



The Y is constructed out of 2.25" 4130.


The middle portion is 2.5" 4130 with a V band to a resonator.  Should have used V bands for the ends of the headers.





At light loads the exhaust is pretty quiet but at anything about 1/4 or 1/2 throttle it gets raspy.  Sounds like it's coming from the header flange gaskets.  Will probably replace those with V bands, thought about doing that from the beginning but they already had the flanges welded on them.

Edited by pontoontodd
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Posted (edited)

Will try to find/post better pictures eventually but for the cooling system we settled on a modified Miata radiator. 


Pushed the condenser as far forward as we could with minimal cutting/bending/hammering.  Flipped the condenser brackets IIRC, put some rubber in between it and the body.  Seemed like a stock H6 radiator would have fit but it would have been rubbing on the timing cover.  Cut and welded some water necks on the Miata radiator to fit the H6.  This is one of my biggest disappointments of the swap, it might be worth using a second gen Impreza just so you could run a stock H6 radiator.  While we had the water necks cut off it seemed that part of the tube they welded in might be blocking flow.



So we ground that out.



Probably won't matter but I want as much cooling capacity as I can get.

Used a cheap universal fit coolant overflow tank, I've used these on a couple cars/trucks and they seem to hold up.  Swapped to a 13psi cap from the 20psi cap the radiator came with and the level in the overflow seems to go up and down with coolant temp as you'd expect.  Using two pusher fans.


For the intake we just modified a Can Am airbox to pull air in from the scoop.  One downside is that filters are fairly expensive and not really available retail.  Put a water repellent filter sock on it too.  Installed the grommet and air intake temp sensor for EZ30 in it.  Also have a couple cone air filters.  Plan to eventually test them on the dyno and then cut the baffle under the hood scoop appropriately.

Edited by pontoontodd
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