It's not the 16 flashes after start up indicating a fault code.

When driving for a while, it will start flashing continuously.

Engine Temp is fine, normal driving no shifting issues.

Turn the car off and start it again and the AT TEMP is back to normal.

Helping a fellow here in Colorado Springs.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Larry

Well he hand a 2+ volt drop in the +battery cable going to the starter.  He changed it today and said it made a world of difference.  Was hard starting, CEL was on for knock sensor...

Computers like good stable power!

Hope it takes care of all issues.

He texted me today and said it did not want to start.  Crancks but not fire.  If he sprays a little starting fluid in the vacumm port, it starts right up and will continue to do so for the day.  Seems like when it sits, it's loosing fuel pressure.  

I suggested he Tee in a pressure gauge after the fuel filter to see what's happening.

- Engine has been changed 2.5 to 2.2 swap.

- He changed the fuel pump and filter to new NAPA units.

I changed the 3 relays on the drivers side next tothe fuses.  I have not had the time to dig into the schematics.

That should be pretty much it, unless the fuel pump is not being powered.

Fuel pressure is not building with key to on, but not started.

If he sprays a little starting fluid in, it will start and run and fuel pressure is 35psi.

Fuel pressure drops to zero when the car is shut off.  Both engines had this issue and it was a complete swap so the fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors... have all been changed by the engine swap.  Hard troubleshooting from 3500 miles away.

Well, 2 poor starters from NAPA caused the slow crank issue.  The replacement Positive cable helped but when he got a good starter, much better.

Aftermarket AT cooler added - has improved the Trans AT Temp.

Still taking a bit of starting fluid to get it to start.  Once running, it's fine.  He can shut it off and start it right back up so fuel pump is working.

I'm thinking the ECU is not turning the fuel pump on initially to build pressure.  

He's checking with a pressure gauge tee into the fuel line.  

If it's the ECU, I told him we could add a switch to the control circuit of the relay which would let him turn on the pump prior to start.

I have to look, but I believe the ECU is just providing a ground for the control circuit of the fuel pump relay.  Easy Button, if that's the case.

I would check fuel pressure regulator if it has fuel in top vacume hose or that hose is loose or cracks. I prefer to use subaru named brands only because subaru cars don't like aftermarket or other brand parts in my experience. 

After fuel pressure regulator would be fuel rail and injectors. Then maybe bypass fuel filter if its fuel issue. But there must be other signs like at idle, normal speed, top speed response.