danz75 Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 I bled my brakes last week and replaced the fluid but got thinking that maybe I should have put some anti seize or something on the screws so that the next time I get around to bleeding them, it won't be stuck. Would anti-seize be bad for the brake fluid? Any other things that might work better? I'm huge on applying anti-seize to all the bolts and nuts so that they don't rust shut. Have had too many bad experieces with rusted bolts, rusted rotors etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jankemi Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 I bled my brakes last week and replaced the fluid but got thinking that maybe I should have put some anti seize or something on the screws so that the next time I get around to bleeding them, it won't be stuck. . I've done it in the past. I think you'd want to be carefull about getting the stuff mixed in with the brake fluid though. I tend to slather anti-sieze on just about everthing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 I use copper grease almost everwhere too! However, not on bleeder screws. If they are stuck, replace them with new ones. These will have some sealant on the threads. The best way to keep them sticking is to torque them right - ie. not too much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99obw Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 I coat the threads and hex portion of the screw with never-sieze after it is tightened down. That way the fluid doesn't get contaminated and the screw is protected from corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danz75 Posted October 29, 2004 Author Share Posted October 29, 2004 What would be the right torque on the bleeder screws? I figured if I just put it the way like obw99 described and bleed them right away, any contamination would be removed. My history with callipers that have the bleeder screws stuck is that it will break in the hole and I would have a calliper that I would have to try and drill out the remnants or replace. I just want to do preventive maintenance. I use copper grease almost everwhere too! However, not on bleeder screws. If they are stuck, replace them with new ones. These will have some sealant on the threads. The best way to keep them sticking is to torque them right - ie. not too much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 Well, look at the size of the nut. They have gone from 10mm to 8mm. Look at the size of an 8mm wrench. No more torque than a tight hand can generate. Don't lean on it with your arm or body weight. I think we're looking down around 10Nm, but I can't get my torque wrench on thebleeders! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 My Factory Service Manual (2002 Forester) says to torque the bleeder screws to 8 N.m (5.8 ft-lb). This isn't much torque, and so don't overdo it. I've sheared off more than my fair share of bleeder screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 Hey, I was only off the mark by 25% ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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