Alf Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Hi, I just received a pair of used lifters for my EA82. Cleaned them correctly, reassembled, and waiting in oil for putting in the engine. I still have no manual for the car, so I don't know how hard is to change the lifters. So, my question to you is: what shall I remove to reach the lifters? Note: I've just redone the oil pump, so I really think that changing the HLAs will make the f*ckin' tickin' go away. Thanks for your answers, Alf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 you have to take the cam cases off...its real pain the in @$$ fora first timer with the engine in the car....if youve done it a few times, like me, its rather easy. Just ahve to get all the stuff out the way...airbox, batt, wires/cables....and then be patient and take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted December 17, 2004 Author Share Posted December 17, 2004 Geeezz... so I have to take apart the timing? I hope I can assembe it also... Thanks for the information! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phishy75 Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 just make sure to do it slowly and be meticulous. The timing is really not hard - at TDC one timing gear is up and the other is down (there are little marking nobs on the gears). Which side are you doing? The passenger side is easier because there is more access room and you only have to take off one t-belt. If you are sure it is the lifters themselves, are you sure it is only two of them? There are 8 in total... Did you use a bit of gasket sealant at the block mating surface when you resealed the oil pump? There is always a little irregularity where the two halves of the block meet. The first time I resealed the oil pump i didn't put any gasket goo on these spots and it didn't help - the pump still sucked a little bit of air which gets into the lifters and ticks away:banghead: . Next time I just put a liitle dab at each spot before replaceing the pump and everything has been gold since:grin:. Definitely worth considering. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 3, 2005 Author Share Posted January 3, 2005 Here I am again. So, first, I only wanted to do the oil pump. Got the mickey-gasket, took out the pump. Chenged the gasket and the big O ring and the seal ring of the oil pump shaft. Reassembled, tried out. Runs fine, oil leaks as well as before, but the ticking hasn't gone, just the noise was a little lower. I went for a test drive, and the timing belt split. Towed the car home, and got drunk. The second turn, I decided to take the oil pump again, reseal everything, after that take down the cam tower and check what's wrong, and also change the faulty HLAs. Oh, I almost forgot: of course it's the driver's side, so no room, but a bunch of wires, vacuum hoses, and other stuff to take away. Anyway, with the cam tower off, I saw that one of the HLAs is stucked (it doesn't move at all, it's in the upper stretched position), and one other HLA has lost it's cap. Fine. Changed these two, changed the O ring on the cam tower, reassembled everything (resealed well every mating surface). Took the new timing belt to put into place, but I realized that it is for the passenger side (some teeth shorter than the other), so I can't finish the boogie yet. Today I had it changed at the store, in the evening I hope I will finish all, and can do a test run. I really hope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 3, 2005 Author Share Posted January 3, 2005 Oh, I have a question about timing. If the inner plastic cover is broken, how can I be sure that the camshaft is in position when installing the new belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 OK, yesterday I reassemled everything. Timing is correct, everything works. But it still leaks at the oil pump, not enough oil pressure and TOD isn't gone. Is it very important to face the oil pump's rotor's marked ("B") side to the engine or not? Because as I remember, I faced it to the oil pump... Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 the B will face inside the motor, so it faces the same way as the B on the pump shaft. sometimes the seal likes to fall out of place when you install the 'pump. but if the B faces out that is not right, but i dont see how that would make it leak. what about the pressure relief bolt or any of the plugs on the front/bottom of the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 So it's very important to face the "B" side to the engine? The leaking is something else, I've checked all the gaskets/seals/plugs, all is OK, so I just can't understand where the oil comes from. PS: I did the timing upon your tech article about timing belts Thanks very much for the useful information! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 update: I've got a used pump, disassembled, changed the seals and other stuff in/on it, reassembled. It works fine, so now I have normal oil pressure. It doesn't seem to leak so much, but I didn't drove the car to tell this exactly. TOD hasn't gone yet, but now it sounds better, now my exhaust is louder than my lifters. Question: is that possible that wrong timing (I mean, on the driver side camshaft the sprocket is misaligned, may be 1 tooth only) makes the engine to seize while driving? It does run, but seizes sometime. Also, some jangling can be heard from the engine while accelerating, and I couldn't set the timing correctly, one cylinder doesn't work (it was working fine before I took apart the timing). Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 what does the oil pressure look like. there is also an inner o-ring on the inside of the pump. without that the oil pump wont make any pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 what does the oil pressure look like. there is also an inner o-ring on the inside of the pump. without that the oil pump wont make any pressure I don't have pressure indicator in the dash, only a warning lamp. But before, the lamp came on even 3500 rpm or higher. Now about 600 rpm or lower it doesn't so I think the pressure is OK. I have very worn camshaft on the ticking side, may be that causes the faint noise. Anyhow I will measure the oil pressure with a calibrated external device soon. My problem is now this engine seizing and the correctly unadjustable ignition, and it's very doubtful to me that it's the timing. Can it be? edit: I'm very sorry for my english, under "seizing" I mean that the engine runs (doesn't stop totally), but at every third turn it stops for a millisecond, and runs well, stops for a millisecond, runs well and so on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phishy75 Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 it sounds like you could be out a tooth on your timing. the first time i replaced t-belts, i was a tooth off and wondered why it wasn't running quite right for about 100km before i fixed it. i recommend running without t-belt covers (others will disagree) so it is easy to get at all that good stuff around there and you can easily move it a tooth if you don't have a timing light to check with. as for the TOD, did you put a bit of gasket sealant on the block mating surfaces when you re-sealed the oil pump. if not - you really should. if you did, make sure you take the car for a really good run before you assume the problem isn't fixed. it can take quite a while for all of the little air bubbles to work their way out of the lifters. i think it took at least 50km for mine to get nice and quiet. now my exhaust is louder than my lifters too:lol: good luck and keep us posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 it sounds like you could be out a tooth on your timing. Just as I thought! I'm very happy that you've confirmed this. the first time i replaced t-belts, i was a tooth off and wondered why it wasn't running quite right for about 100km before i fixed it. i recommend running without t-belt covers (others will disagree) so it is easy to get at all that good stuff around there and you can easily move it a tooth if you don't have a timing light to check with. I was thinking about this, because half of the covers were broken, but I just got some covers which are in decent shape, so I think I will go with them. Thanks for the two cents anyway. as for the TOD, did you put a bit of gasket sealant on the block mating surfaces when you re-sealed the oil pump. if not - you really should. if you did, make sure you take the car for a really good run before you assume the problem isn't fixed. it can take quite a while for all of the little air bubbles to work their way out of the lifters. i think it took at least 50km for mine to get nice and quiet. Yes, I did put some sealant, it's fine now, I think. So you say, I have to drive the car (after debugged the timing) for a longer distance, and hope the ticking goes away totally? now my exhaust is louder than my lifters too:lol: good luck and keep us posted It's easy for me, because my exhaust has about three rust-holes minimum. Thanks for the words, I really appreciate them!! Of course I will continuously update my story Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canajun2eh Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 Yes, it can take quite a while for the lifters to return to normal. This past fall, I helped a friend with his non-turbo XT. It took a week for things to become quiet. If you still have an oil leak near the pump: Did you change the crankshaft seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 Yes, it can take quite a while for the lifters to return to normal. This past fall, I helped a friend with his non-turbo XT. It took a week for things to become quiet. Whoaaa. Mine is also a non-turbo... I didn't expect that much time for that. Thanks for the info! If you still have an oil leak near the pump: Did you change the crankshaft seal? No, there wasn't oil around that seal, and when I bought the car, the previous owner chaged that. Of course, it can be leaking, I will check that today again, just for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 Update: I've aligned one tooth on the driver's side camshaft, but it didn't get better. Tried to adjust the ignition timing, nothing changed. Borrowed a pressure tester/indicator from my neighbour, and tested all the cylinders. 1. ,2. and third cylinders are OK (around 8-9 Bars pressure), but the fourth had 2 Bars. Took down the cylinder head. It's cracked between the two valves, and the exhaust valve is bent a bit. So it's better to change the whole head. I bought an engine, but that engine's heads are also cracked a bit. Not so much, only the surface, so between the valves it's OK. Question: with the head surface between the two valves cracked (only some micron millimeters or less in depth), how long it will work? Is it a big problem, or it will do for years from now (in normal conditions, of course)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canajun2eh Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 You should be OK with those surface cracks. I've heard that these are normal and nothing to be worried about. If you see cracks extending below the valve seats, that's a different story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 I disassembled the whole head, took out the valves/springs, and I didn't see any cracks below surface. You should be OK with those surface cracks. I've heard that these are normal and nothing to be worried about. This is what I wanted to hear from you. Thanks BTW, what causes the heads to crack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canajun2eh Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Those surface cracks are caused by heat and not enough metal between the intake and exhaust valve ports. There's a significant temperature difference between the two ports, so the metal will expand and contract at different rates. This causes the surface cracks you have seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 Understood! Thanks for the words! If everything goes well (my new head gasket just arrived) and I can reassemble the engine without any more difficulties, then in the evening I will cruise in my soooobiee and I'll do the banana dance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted January 14, 2005 Author Share Posted January 14, 2005 Yesterday evening I've finished this job! Ticking of death is gone, oil leaks gone, engine runs like a dream! I would like to thank all the members in here for the help or just wishing me luck! What I did exactly: changed everything (starting from the cylinder head) on the driver's side of the engine, and put on a used, but great condition oil pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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