dlove Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 I'm glad that I found this forum! I can use all the help I can get when it comes to cars. I'm proud to announce that I'll be buying a '92 Loyale wagon (4x4, 5spd manual, 140k, $750) next week and I'd like some insight on inspecting and tuning it up. The current owner let it sit idle for 6 months or so, which killed the battery (new one installed) and no doubt wasn't any good for the fluids or seals. I gave the car a brief inspection and test drive today. The body and interior are in excellent shape and the tires look like they have a little life left yet. Hoses and belts look good and he had the cv joints replaced just before he quit driving it. The engine sounded rough on startup and throughout test-drive, which he assures me wasn't the case before it sat idle. Would that be a likely, considering that none of the fluids have been changed or topped off? The car ran/performed just fine. I did hear/feel a thumping in the right front wheel when braking (bent rim?) Should I change the fluids before driving it again, or am I okay to drive it home before changing them? Any suggestions regarding a full tune-up (what fluids, plugs etc.. to replace and which particular fluids are best)? Any suggestions for what should be thoroughly inspected/where to take it for servicing? Thanks any help/suggestions you can offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik R Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 There is a thread on here (I don't recall the title) that list all the things you should assume have not been done and require immediate maintenance. These things aren't terribly difficult, but will cost you a few $$. Well worth it for the peace of mind. Nobody likes a break-down or having to wrench on a car "unscheduled" . I too just bought a car last week, '91 Loyale wagon, 5 spd EA 82 spfi W/290k. Good paint,one owner, new tires and smogged for $1100. Post pics soon. Maybe you will share pix of your new ride? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 The engine sounded rough on startup and throughout test-drive, which he assures me wasn't the case before it sat idle. Would that be a likely, considering that none of the fluids have been changed or topped off? Maybe, but I think it needs a tune up - disty cap & rotor, and ig. wires - all should be OEM The car ran/performed just fine. I did hear/feel a thumping in the right front wheel when braking (bent rim?) that sounds more like a warped brake rotor - if you have a brake job done on the front end, make sure the front rotors are "turned" - and if they need replacement, OEM or a good name brand (like Bendex or Raybestos) top-of-the line quality should be used - there are many knock-offs on the market that are not very good, and practically unsafe Should I change the fluids before driving it again, or am I okay to drive it home before changing them? I would change all fluids sooner than later - oil should be done ASAP - and use a good quality oil and 10w-30 is probably a good viscosity to use - nothing lighter, and you may prefer 15w-40 later down the road - coolant and gear oil can wait till you get it home, but should be done soon too Any suggestions regarding a full tune-up (what fluids, plugs etc.. to replace and which particular fluids are best)? Oil - I use Castrol Synthetic Blend 10w-30 in the summer, and 15w-40 in the winter (I avoid 10w-40 because it has historically had gelling issues in all engines; however, soobs are not gelling-prone) - Mobil or Mobil 1 is preferable - NOT A FRAM FILTER - Purolator, Wix, or OEM filter should be used Coolant - the green stuff - make sure it is 50/50 mix Gear Oil - Mobil 1 75w-90 Plugs - most feel NGK's are the best Any suggestions for what should be thoroughly inspected/where to take it for servicing? The timing belts should be replaced, as well as all front oil seals (cams, front main, and oil pump reseal) - it won't be cheap if you have a shop do it, but parts are very cheap if you do it yourself - fuel filter should be changed, and the air filter needs to be inspected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
555Ron Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 The engine sounded rough on startup and throughout test-drive, which he assures me wasn't the case before it sat idle. Would that be a likely, considering that none of the fluids have been changed or topped off? The car ran/performed just fine. I did hear/feel a thumping in the right front wheel when braking (bent rim?) Should I change the fluids before driving it again, or am I okay to drive it home before changing them? Any suggestions regarding a full tune-up (what fluids, plugs etc.. to replace and which particular fluids are best)? Any suggestions for what should be thoroughly inspected/where to take it for servicing? Thanks any help/suggestions you can offer. They knocking on braking could be many things... a warped disc rotor, bad brake calipers, bad CV joint... as could be the rough engine. I would doubt it would be fluids though i'd get them changed if its a cold climate where its been stored. (change them asap, best to be on the safe side) The rough running could be the valve timing out one notch... lack of compression in a cylinder... anything. I'd take the car to a mechanic and get him(her) to diagnose the problems. Anything he says take it with a grain of salt. People will tell you anything to get rid of a car they don't want. I drove a 10 hour round trip to look at a car that had a little surface rust, a smooth engine etc. Well, it was a pile of junk, not suitable for a wrecker! If he says it ran good when he stopped driving it... why did he stop driving it? (and why is he selling it too) Even if he has an explanation for that, assume he is lying. Better to be safe then sorry. You should have a list of questions to ask the seller such as the ones above and if its ever been crashed etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84gl Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 check the tbelts and the tenioners (which i have had to lock up on me in the past) if it leaks oil the the valve cover gaskets and check the cv boots and ujoints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 the rough idle may be from corrosion of the electrical terminals. does the ecs light come on? you can pull a code from the ecu and that will tell you something a lot of times a bad connection will throw a code, and wiggling/unplu/re-plugging, or cleaning of the trminals will fix the problem check out he ecu temp sensor, its the one with the green plug and 2 wires on the thermostat body also you may want to consider doing the timing belts. not that that is the problem, but an unexpected broken timing belt is about the only thing that will leave you stranded. the belts should be replaced avery 60 thousand miles. ask the previous owner when the timing belt was last serviced if you do the timing belts and you have it apart that far you may as well do all the seals if youwant to do the belts only first, you can leave all theplastic covers off, and that will make any future service less work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik R Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 dlove, read this thread : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32721 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.