This may be a simple question...

 

I have a 1980 EA81. I bought it from a salvage yard, so, of course, all the wires were just snipped off instead of being unplugged. In my chilton wiring diagram, the two wires that come from the ignition control unit in the distributor are shown as yellow and black/white. Black/white ties into the lead from the voltage regulator to the resistor (then to + side of coil), and yellow goes to the negative side of the coil.

 

However, on MY motor, these two wires are solid red and solid white. I looked through every wiring diagram for every year and they're all shown as yellow and black/white. Does anyone know which is which. Maybe being reversed doesn't even matter, but I don't want to take a chance on frying my ICU since it's like $350 for a new one. I'm wondering if the Chilton manual only shows the hitachi disty and maybe those are a different color. I have the ND disty.

 

Thanks!

Did you try the setup I told you about in the previous posting of this problem?

Yes, this is sort-of a new problem in the same general nightmare. Here is what I've discovered so far, and it all boils down to external voltage regulators are a pain in the arse.

 

I have it turning over now, but it won't start. The wiring diagram WAS incorrect in that it is missing the wire from the switch to the starter solenoid. I believe the wire that goes from the voltage regulator to the starter actually goes to the same connection as the switch/solenoid. This charges the coil during cranking, but once the engine is running, the coil gets it's power from the alternator. That way, if the engine dies, the fuel pump power (also from the VR) gets cut off automatically. This is all just my theory, but it seems to make sense. It's got me to the point of a charged coil and the engine turning over, so I guess i'm farther along than i was!

 

The issue with the shielded wire wasn't exactly what I thought. Turns out, there were two wires in the shielded wrapping all along, but one got sucked down into the wrap when it was cut by the salvage people. After I heard that there had to be two wires there, I cut another inch off what I had and then discovered that there was indeed another wire farther back. Now those two wires are my problem. The colors on them do not match the colors on the diagram. Every document I find keeps talking about a yellow and black/white wire, not the solid red and solid white i have.

and it all boils down to external voltage regulators are a pain in the arse.

 

they sure are - swap your alternator for one with an internal regulator - all you need to do then is bridge a couple of connections on the plug that used to go to the ext. regulator.

 

As for the wires, I will have a look at my diagrams at home in a few hours and get back.

Cool, thanks ross. If you have factory manuals, you'll probably be able to find out alot more than I can with this POS chilton book.

 

Yes, my hindsight is 20/20 and I REALLY wish I would've got an internal reg alternator. I bought the "stock" alternator off ebay for dirt cheap ($20 new and shipped) not realizing that an external VR was needed. I found that out after the fact. Now I have a new alternator and a new VR, so I'd rather not spend more money unless I have to.

Nah,, i don't have the factory manual, but i do have a haynes manual that has quite a few wiring diagrams for different models in the same year.

Unfortunately, i think its in my girlfrnds car, and she's at work for another 6 hours. Ill post then.

Cool, thanks man. Would you happen to have any idea what an ignition control unit would do with the polarity reversed? Would I damage it, or would it simply not spark, like I have now?

What kind of pickup do those early ignition modules use?

I am not familiar with them, as in New Zealand they came with ignition points till later on.

Well, I'm just starting to learn these motors, so I don't know that much really. I know there is a reluctor that sits where the breaker points would be, and there is a pickup coil which generates the high voltage. The ignition control unit supposedly controls the flow of current to the pickup.

 

Now, I don't know what this control unit looks like, but I've been told it's a small box inside of the distributor under the rotor. However, the wiring diagrams always show it as a separate box. I know this will sound really ignorant, but is the control unit outside of the distributor or in? If it's a separate box, then I think I know my problem because I don't have one!

Ok, just found another manual online. Now i have one manual (the chilton 1970-1984) which says there is a "transistor ignition unit" mounted on a fender by the coil. The other manual, Gregorys 1970-94, says the control unit is inside the distributor under the rotor on Nippon Denso distributors (which I have). Do I have an oddball year motor where the control unit is separate (like the voltage regulator). If so, I think I'm seriously going to go bang my head on a wall cause that thing costs almost as much as I paid for the entire motor.

Ditch the stock module and get a MSD blaster or 5 series for like... $100 bucks.

So it IS an external piece from my distributor? In that case, I will buy an aftermarket 'performance' ignition. The 'stock' setup is over $350!! I can get any number of generics for way less than that. Here is a question... are they all pretty much the same? Would something like this work?

 

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=4013F&mfrcode=PRF&mfrpartnumber=66944C

 

It's cheap and has two terminals on each side, like the original. Does it work the same way?

 

Thanks so much for all the help guys.

Went to the auto parts store over lunch and learned a few things. In order for the MSD or any aftermarket performance ignition to work, you still have to have the stock ignition module installed so that the MSD gets a pulsing signal. All the MSD does is boost the signal to the coil. So, the guy there (advance auto parts) helped me find a generic module that we think might work in place of stock. It is the standard ignition for tons of different GM cars from chevettes to v8 camaros. If it doesn't work I'm out $15 instead of the $358 it costs for the 'stock' module. I'll post an update tonight and let you all know if it works. Might save everyone some serious cash if you need a new one.:cool:

Alright, got all my issues worked out finally. Here is the good news... for those of you who have an older model ea81 with the external ignition module, here is a way to save about $340. Get a GP Sorensen model EL102 ignition. It is used on tons of GM cars from chevettes to camaros and only cost $14.88. It works great and I like the price much better than the $358 stock module.