I bought the pin tool a couple of months ago, and just ordered the rear bearings.

 

When I get the berings in, what's the torque spec on that wierd back nut that you use the pin tool on and stake?

 

('85 GL wagon)

Thanks

I torqued mine down to 'tight as hizzell'

 

Seriously though I didnt use a torque wrench. Just used the impact gun at about 90 psi.

 

Hopefully someone will reply with actual torq spec but if not you'll make due.

I torqued mine down to 'tight as hizzell'

 

Seriously though I didnt use a torque wrench. Just used the impact gun at about 90 psi.

 

Hopefully someone will reply with actual torq spec but if not you'll make due.

 

What? Are we talking about the same thing? I thought that the nut behind the drum put a "pre-load" on the bearings.

 

Are you talking about the axle nut? I'm not. Or am I just confused about what that back nut that uses the "pin socket tool" does.

 

Pyro

I thought you were talking about the castle nut.

 

Never botherd messing around with drums; always swaped to rear discs.

The "ring nut" on the diff side of the rear hub should be torqued to 127-163 ft-lbs, per a diagram in a Chilton's manual that looks like it was lifted from the FSM.

 

Where did you get the pin-tool, and how much did it cost? Planning on ever needing it again?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=11704&item=4389006949&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

 

This guy has been selling 'pin tools' for some time now on eBay. For $21, I don't think you can beat it, nor would it be worth it for someone like me to make one on the lathe and mill when they are available at this price. It looks like a good deal to me - I think someone from the board either posted or IM'ed me a link to this guys auctions, thats how I found it.

I thought you were talking about the castle nut.

 

Never botherd messing around with drums; always swaped to rear discs.

 

Sorry for the confusion, couldn't remember, it's a "ring nut" yes. I too have disk. We both have ring nuts behind the rear bearings.

 

Pyro

And yes, I found the torque spec for the ring nut in my chilton's. Thanks guys for the help.

 

Also, I found mine through a link provided by someone in some post. If you search for it you should be able to find it. It was some online specialty tool company.

 

Also read a post a few days ago about how to make one from a GI pin tool. Just had to grind off the extra tabs.

 

I now have one side done, new wheel bearings, new axles.

 

Tell the truth, that pin tool doesnt provide a great deal of purchase. I see that Chilton's just recomends using a punch or chisel. Pin tool worked pretty good to get the nut out, but really couldn't get enough torque on the darn thing to re-tighten it to spec. Used a big brass punch and MFH. (medium xxxxxx hammer)

 

Question: After examining the entire rear bearing setup, and seeing that the ringnut is torqed so high, I'm thinking that it not a pre-loaded bearing assembly. Yet it's a Timken syle tapered bearing set up. I guess I don't get it. Just hope I got it right. Think so.

 

Oh, and I'll be keeping the tool, just in case.

 

Pyro