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Mostly just want to make sure that there are only two nuts (bottom) and two bolts (top) that need to be removed to pull the engine out. That bottom drivers was a pain, ended up pulling the axle off the stub to get a straight shot at it:rolleyes: . Any other tip are more then welcome!!! Thanks, Tim

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  • 10 months later...
Mostly just want to make sure that there are only two nuts (bottom) and two bolts (top) that need to be removed to pull the engine out. That bottom drivers was a pain, ended up pulling the axle off the stub to get a straight shot at it:rolleyes: . Any other tip are more then welcome!!! Thanks, Tim

 

To anyone, what's the trick to getting these loose from the transmission? Took out 2 bolts on top, 2 nuts on the bottom, 4 bolts from the flex plate. Lifted the engine and trans and pulled the motor mounts loose from engine and set them back in the cross member so I don't have to lift it so high.

 

'97 OBW,

Monte

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Some of them stick by the pins. You also have to pull the brace I understand.

Some folks have had a real struggle helped by levers and penetrating oil.

 

Sticky dowel pins. I yanked and pulled on the motor. A little bit of spackle putty knives crammed in the hairline gap to split everything.

 

2035802_113_full.jpg

 

When I reassembled the engine to the transmission, I sanded smooth the pins, gave them a little chamfer/bevel with a file and then wiped anti-seize compound on them. Don't want to have to go through that again.

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Sticky dowel pins. I yanked and pulled on the motor. A little bit of spackle putty knives crammed in the hairline gap to split everything.

 

2035802_113_full.jpg

 

When I reassembled the engine to the transmission, I sanded smooth the pins, gave them a little chamfer/bevel with a file and then wiped anti-seize compound on them. Don't want to have to go through that again.

 

Your pins stayed with the engine block, mine stayed in the bellhousing.

 

Monte

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