dcolemanca Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Outback Legacy 97, 109k miles, new clutch (104k) I have the infamous sticking clutch pedal problem when its hot and plan to replace the slave cylinder as per the TSB on the subject. (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041)) Since I had a new clutch I don't need to put new fluid in, but have a few questions since I never did anything like this before? 1) can I replace the slave and hose without spilling fluid everywhere? 2) can I bleed the system, after changing the slave and hose, by myself? 3) what is the best way to do the bleed? 4) should I bite the bullet and get new master cylinder too? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve530 Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Outback Legacy 97, 109k miles, new clutch (104k) I have the infamous sticking clutch pedal problem when its hot and plan to replace the slave cylinder as per the TSB on the subject. (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041)) Since I had a new clutch I don't need to put new fluid in, but have a few questions since I never did anything like this before? 1) can I replace the slave and hose without spilling fluid everywhere? 2) can I bleed the system, after changing the slave and hose, by myself? 3) what is the best way to do the bleed? 4) should I bite the bullet and get new master cylinder too? TIA I've done this on several cars, but never a Subaru, so my answers should be viewed in that light. 1) probably not. It may help to use the bleed screw cap to cover male fittings and a golf tee to plug hoses. 2) Not without a special device. I use a Motive power bleeder. There are also vacuum bleeders. Without these you'll need someone to pump the clutch pedal while you open and close the bleed valve. 3) a. Top up the master cylinder reservoir. b. Attach hose to bleed valve into suitable container. c. Press down on clutch pedal. d. Open bleed valve. e. Monitor flow for bubbles, if none go to i. f. Close bleeder valve. g. Release clutch pedal. h. Go to c. i. Done. Make sure reservoir is full. 4) In my experience, if you replace just the slave, the master cylinder will blow out within a year becuase the new component can hold more pressure than the other. This may not be true of Subarus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcolemanca Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 Thanks for the info and advice. I have read somewhere in one of the Subaru forums that the clutch has to be "gravity" bled. Is that correct and does that change the procedure? For example to you open the bleed point a little and leave it for say an hour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 I performed the TSB service, hose, washers, and slave and was not satisfied with mine. the master cyl was not produceing enough pressure. One new master cyl and having my wife pump the clutch and hold and it has been fine for well over a year. If you buy a turkey baster and use it to empty the master cyl before you do the job it is possible to do this with very little mess. I also bleed it with a hose in a jar partially filled with brake fluid so as not to spill any. I had very little clean up and just washed the area with soap and water after becuse sometimes brake fluid can take paint off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve530 Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Thanks for the info and advice. I have read somewhere in one of the Subaru forums that the clutch has to be "gravity" bled. Is that correct and does that change the procedure? For example to you open the bleed point a little and leave it for say an hour? I have not read that you need to gravity bleed the clutch, but yes that would change the procedure. You are correct that all that would be necessary is to open the slave cylinder blled valve and let the fluid drain, AFAIK. I would open the bleed valve wide and carefully monitor the progress to assure that the reservoir did not run dry, at least until you are sure how fast that would happen. I think I would probably run some fluid through there for a while and then close the valve and check the operation. If it is not working as it should, try it again. I wonder why you would need to gravity bleed a Subaru slave cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 and a bit more tidy. It does not get fluid into the cyl unless you pump it though. Once in a while you can get an air bubble in a master cyl the is hard to clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcolemanca Posted September 17, 2005 Author Share Posted September 17, 2005 So I purchased the parts and was about to start installing when I discovered the new clutch hose has the wrong fitting at one end. The original has the same fitting at both ends, sort of a cylinder with hole in the middle and a narrow opening towards the hose itself, maybe you would call it an eye fitting. The new cable has this type at one end but a threaded female connector at the other end and it is a little shorter. It definitely won't work. I double checked the part #'s and I definitely got the correct one for my car according to the TSB. So now I am stuck as to what to do, I am considering just installing the slave cylinder for now and leave the hose. Is the hose really a likely source of the pedal sticking problem? Anyone have this experience? What did you do? The clutch hose part # I got was 37251AC001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcolemanca Posted September 19, 2005 Author Share Posted September 19, 2005 I went ahead and installed just the slave and kept the orginal hose cos was unsure about the different hose connection on the new one. Was pretty easy, I bled using the clutch pedal and then I let some fluid drain thru by itself (gravity bleed) to make double sure. The result is excellent - the clutch is noticeably lighter. I can't comment on if the sticking pedal problem is gone cos I haven't done a lot of driving in hot weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jokermtb Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 jeez, if it wasnt 10 deg. out I'd do the same thing to my car which has the same exact problem/s......argh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.