sticking clutch pedal, slave replacement, how to bleed?

[dcolemanca]

Outback Legacy 97, 109k miles, new clutch (104k)

 

I have the infamous sticking clutch pedal problem when its hot and plan to replace the slave cylinder as per the TSB on the subject. (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041))

 

Since I had a new clutch I don't need to put new fluid in, but have a few questions since I never did anything like this before?

 

1) can I replace the slave and hose without spilling fluid everywhere?

 

2) can I bleed the system, after changing the slave and hose, by myself?

 

3) what is the best way to do the bleed?

 

4) should I bite the bullet and get new master cylinder too?

 

TIA

[Steve530]

Outback Legacy 97, 109k miles, new clutch (104k)

 

I have the infamous sticking clutch pedal problem when its hot and plan to replace the slave cylinder as per the TSB on the subject. (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041))

 

Since I had a new clutch I don't need to put new fluid in, but have a few questions since I never did anything like this before?

 

1) can I replace the slave and hose without spilling fluid everywhere?

 

2) can I bleed the system, after changing the slave and hose, by myself?

 

3) what is the best way to do the bleed?

 

4) should I bite the bullet and get new master cylinder too?

 

TIA

 

I've done this on several cars, but never a Subaru, so my answers should be viewed in that light.

 

1) probably not. It may help to use the bleed screw cap to cover male fittings and a golf tee to plug hoses.

 

2) Not without a special device. I use a Motive power bleeder. There are also vacuum bleeders. Without these you'll need someone to pump the clutch pedal while you open and close the bleed valve.

 

3) a. Top up the master cylinder reservoir.

b. Attach hose to bleed valve into suitable container.

c. Press down on clutch pedal.

d. Open bleed valve.

e. Monitor flow for bubbles, if none go to i.

f. Close bleeder valve.

g. Release clutch pedal.

h. Go to c.

i. Done. Make sure reservoir is full.

 

4) In my experience, if you replace just the slave, the master cylinder will blow out within a year becuase the new component can hold more pressure than the other. This may not be true of Subarus.

[dcolemanca]

Thanks for the info and advice.

 

I have read somewhere in one of the Subaru forums that the clutch has to be "gravity" bled. Is that correct and does that change the procedure?

 

For example to you open the bleed point a little and leave it for say an hour?

[cookie]

I performed the TSB service, hose, washers, and slave and was not satisfied with mine. the master cyl was not produceing enough pressure. One new master cyl and having my wife pump the clutch and hold and it has been fine for well over a year.

If you buy a turkey baster and use it to empty the master cyl before you do the job it is possible to do this with very little mess. I also bleed it with a hose in a jar partially filled with brake fluid so as not to spill any. I had very little clean up and just washed the area with soap and water after becuse sometimes brake fluid can take paint off.

[Steve530]

Thanks for the info and advice.

 

I have read somewhere in one of the Subaru forums that the clutch has to be "gravity" bled. Is that correct and does that change the procedure?

 

For example to you open the bleed point a little and leave it for say an hour?

 

I have not read that you need to gravity bleed the clutch, but yes that would change the procedure.

 

You are correct that all that would be necessary is to open the slave cylinder blled valve and let the fluid drain, AFAIK. I would open the bleed valve wide and carefully monitor the progress to assure that the reservoir did not run dry, at least until you are sure how fast that would happen.

 

I think I would probably run some fluid through there for a while and then close the valve and check the operation. If it is not working as it should, try it again.

 

I wonder why you would need to gravity bleed a Subaru slave cylinder?

[cookie]

and a bit more tidy. It does not get fluid into the cyl unless you pump it though. Once in a while you can get an air bubble in a master cyl the is hard to clear.

[dcolemanca]

So I purchased the parts and was about to start installing when I discovered the new clutch hose has the wrong fitting at one end.

 

The original has the same fitting at both ends, sort of a cylinder with hole in the middle and a narrow opening towards the hose itself, maybe you would call it an eye fitting.

 

The new cable has this type at one end but a threaded female connector at the other end and it is a little shorter. It definitely won't work.

 

I double checked the part #'s and I definitely got the correct one for my car according to the TSB.

 

So now I am stuck as to what to do, I am considering just installing the slave cylinder for now and leave the hose.

 

Is the hose really a likely source of the pedal sticking problem?

 

Anyone have this experience? What did you do?

 

The clutch hose part # I got was 37251AC001

[dcolemanca]

I went ahead and installed just the slave and kept the orginal hose cos was unsure about the different hose connection on the new one.

 

Was pretty easy, I bled using the clutch pedal and then I let some fluid drain thru by itself (gravity bleed) to make double sure.

 

The result is excellent - the clutch is noticeably lighter. I can't comment on if the sticking pedal problem is gone cos I haven't done a lot of driving in hot weather.

[jokermtb]

jeez, if it wasnt 10 deg. out I'd do the same thing to my car which has the same exact problem/s......argh!