2001 Forester Catalytic converter gaskets

[jlawlor]

Does anyone know if there are gaskets on either end of the one piece catalytic converter for a 2001 Forester and are the gaskets the same or two different part numbers. My Subaru dealer's diagram shows one for the front only. Napa shows one for the rear only.

[Legacy777]

usually the rear catalytic converter is connected to the mid pipe. So you should only need one gasket. It is a doughnut graphite gasket. They typically are reusable....or at least I've had decent luck with reusing them.

[jlawlor]

usually the rear catalytic converter is connected to the mid pipe. So you should only need one gasket. It is a doughnut graphite gasket. They typically are reusable....or at least I've had decent luck with reusing them.

Thanks for your reply. I put my new cat in yesterday. In the bottom of the box for my new cat I found the gaskets. There are 2. A thin metal/paper one at the inlet and a metal coarse steel wool like gasket at the outlet. I got the cat from http://www.exhaustwarehouse.com for $273.18 that included shipping from their New York location to Indiana. The unit is a simpler version than the Subaru Part. Most of the heat shielding is missing. There is sheilding over the top of the units 2 catalytic elements but none over the bottom or around the pipe separating the units. It fits well but the holes in the mounting flanges are elongated to accomodate variations in fit. This requires the use of washers or flange nuts and bolts. I screwed up my original bolts trying to get the old cat off without dropping the Y pipe. Once I realized I needed to drop the Y pipe the install went easy. Due to the enlarged holes in the flanges you need to assemble the Y pipe to the cat finger tight, put the assembly in place finger tight and snug up the Y pipe/cat junction with a wrench. Then drop the unit again and tighten the Y pipe/cat junction well and reinstall.

I found that the Subaru dealership had apparently stripped out my studs connecting the Y pipe to the exhaust manifold/port when they did the recall head gasket job on the car. Not knowing the torque values I guessed at 50 ft/lbs but one of the studs on the right side started pulling out at 30. I left it at 30 instead of replacing it and will listen for exhaust leaks. I was able to get 40 ft/lbs on the other two. On the left side one of the studs had already been replaced.

 

I hope this solves my problems.

 

Do you know the proper torque values for these studs? Do you know of a good repair manual for a 2001 Subaru Forester?

[Legacy777]

No I don't know the torque value......tight is what I'd recommend.

 

I'm not sure if there is a haynes or chiltons forester service manual. You can always d/l stuff from subaru http://techinfo.subaru.com Or you can buy the factory service books. They're a good investment.

[Setright]

40ftlbs sounds good.

[jlawlor]

No I don't know the torque value......tight is what I'd recommend.

 

I'm not sure if there is a haynes or chiltons forester service manual. You can always d/l stuff from subaru http://techinfo.subaru.com Or you can buy the factory service books. They're a good investment.

Darn it. I have an exhaust leak. It is only heard while the engine is in reverse and under load. Apparently this torques the engine counterclockwise (when seated in the car) putting strain on the right side exhaust mount and my studs are pulling out. I wait for a free weekend to replace the studs. My wife drives this car about 70 miles a day, so if it is going to be a problem, it should rear it's ugly head soon. I think it might also be better to see if my new cat solves my problem. If I can get 500 to 1000 miles on it without the P0420 code setting I'll feel much better about replacing the studs.

 

Thanks for the link and I will add it to my favorites. Unfortunatly, Subaru does not give that information away without a price. I would prefer the one time cost of a Chilton's book. I did find a listing for Subaru Forester 1998-2002 in the Chilton's SUV book. The book costs $40 to $75 depending on if you get the professional version or not. This book covers almost all manufacturers and is good sized, but it must be pretty general information. Probably more than I will need though. I guess I'll order one of those.

[jlawlor]

I did not have an exhaust leak. The Rear O2 sensor was vibrating against the heat shield. Tin snips did the job. I now have over 5000 miles on the repair with no problems. I did not have to replace the weak stud, but will at my next oil change. I was able to reinstall my old O2 sensor. The problem code P0420 was definately the bad cat and not the O2 sensors.

 

Thanks for everyones help.