Ever Victorious Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 Yeeeeeeehaw! Thanks, Xoomer... for pointing out what a braindead puke I am. Battery cables that have sat for 6 years are very, very dirty. I cleaned the inside contacts and she turned over fine... and was EXTREMELY surprised when she actually fired... WITH NO GAS IN THE TANK! She runs... she idles... she smokes. Dunno if that was crap built up in her engine bay or what, but I need to fix the ignition switch before I do too much more (lest I break the only key I have) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xoomer Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 Yeeeeeeehaw! Thanks, Xoomer... for pointing out what a braindead puke I am. Battery cables that have sat for 6 years are very, very dirty. I cleaned the inside contacts and she turned over fine... and was EXTREMELY surprised when she actually fired... WITH NO GAS IN THE TANK! She runs... she idles... she smokes. Dunno if that was crap built up in her engine bay or what, but I need to fix the ignition switch before I do too much more (lest I break the only key I have) So what are yah gonna give me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 15, 2005 Author Share Posted October 15, 2005 So what are yah gonna give me? A cat. he's small, gray, and psychotic. Come get him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 Congrads! getting a junked car/one that has sat for a while to start is a heck of a lot of fun, partially because it is like breathing life back into something that didn't have it - I dunno it's just cool you sure had an easy time with that!! :cool: The smoke will probably go away with time - engine oil may have seeped into the piston chambers while the car sat, or the valve seals were dry and needed oil to get them back to reg size. If I leave my car for a month, and then start it up, it usually smokes for about 2-3 seconds, then stops however it could also be a head gasket, which is bad, but not too bad - check/change coolant and oil ASAP!! (lest I break the only key I have) some dealerships can make dupes for you using your VIN # if necessary - all the same, you might as well make dupes now anyway to save you the trouble Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 15, 2005 Author Share Posted October 15, 2005 Congrads! getting a junked car/one that has sat for a while to start is a heck of a lot of fun, partially because it is like breathing life back into something that didn't have it - I dunno it's just coolyou sure had an easy time with that!! :cool: The smoke will probably go away with time - engine oil may have seeped into the piston chambers while the car sat, or the valve seals were dry and needed oil to get them back to reg size. If I leave my car for a month, and then start it up, it usually smokes for about 2-3 seconds, then stops however it could also be a head gasket, which is bad, but not too bad - check/change coolant and oil ASAP!! Thankfully, there wasn't much of anything wrong with the drivetrain. Well, besides me. I'm hoping it's just what you mentioned in the 2nd paragraph. I just changed the oil, but am planning to change the coolant soon, there's a radiator hose that needs dire attention. I'll do them at the same time. So... I guess priorities are... 1) title! 2) get new ignition switch, make extra keys, and fill gas tank 3) coolant and radiator hoses 4) new hatch 5) strip interior, get new seats, bleach anything that's left 6) get fresh tires 7) emissions and registration 8) attack the rust Or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 Your ignition switch problem may just be the cylinders in the lock assembly being stiff - get some decent-quality silicone spray (the clear stuff that you can also spray on rubber to protect it) and spray it in the keyhole (be fairly liberal as to the quantity) and work it - use the straw for better control - this works wonders The keylock and ignition switch are seperate assemblies, so you want to be sure to replace (if necessary) the right one. IE the one causing the resistance - which will probably be the keylock assembly, a new one will have to be keyed to match the old one Sounds like you are on the right track, but I would plan on using foam/covers on the seats rather than replacing them as parts for a car that old (on the east coast at least) are hard to find. Be careful with anything you remove, because you might not be able to find an interrior part in better shape!! Attack rust on the interrior when you have the interrior out - that is when its easiest!! (I did that routine on a 1979 MG Midget - my first project car!!) Good Luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 15, 2005 Author Share Posted October 15, 2005 Your ignition switch problem may just be the cylinders in the lock assembly being stiff - get some decent-quality silicone spray (the clear stuff that you can also spray on rubber to protect it) and spray it in the keyhole (be fairly liberal as to the quantity) and work it - use the straw for better control - this works wonders The keylock and ignition switch are seperate assemblies, so you want to be sure to replace (if necessary) the right one. IE the one causing the resistance - which will probably be the keylock assembly, a new one will have to be keyed to match the old one Sounds like you are on the right track, but I would plan on using foam/covers on the seats rather than replacing them as parts for a car that old (on the east coast at least) are hard to find. Be careful with anything you remove, because you might not be able to find an interrior part in better shape!! Attack rust on the interrior when you have the interrior out - that is when its easiest!! (I did that routine on a 1979 MG Midget - my first project car!!) The keylock assembly does the exact same thing my '82 DL wagon did... all the locks on the exterior of the car work great, but the key doesn't work well in the ignition. Seemed to me that freshly cut keys always worked better... so that's another thing I can try. As for interior components... I'm not kidding when I say it is a total loss. There are only a couple pieces I may salvage... the dash down to the climate controls, the gauge cluster, the door panels, and the steering wheel. Everything else is moldy, torn, and/or rusted (the driver's seat has lost 2 of 4 mounting points on the rails. thankfully the floor mounts are still intact). I couldn't help myself, though... I just HAD to put a couple gallons of gas in her, fire her up, and take her around the block. If that engine IS 197k miles old, it is in DAMN good shape. She pulls hard when asked, and only stuttered once, going around a corner. Clutch is definitely new... it is so tightly adjusted that the instant you let it go from the floor, it goes. Definite exhaust leak, though... probably near the manifolds. VERY loud... louder than the Flowmaster on my Kia. And she doesn't smoke much at all now that I've run her through a short run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 You're in luck; new EA81 cars showed up in PAP this week....all the interior pieces you might want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted October 15, 2005 Author Share Posted October 15, 2005 You're in luck; new EA81 cars showed up in PAP this week....all the interior pieces you might want. Hmmm... Think I might need to borrow the wife's SUV on monday.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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