oregonloyale Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 So I have been gone for a loooonnnng time. I sold my subarus awhile ago as Im a VW freak , but I always come back . I buy and sell cars on the side of my normal job , only subarus,VW, and hondas. Anyways heres the new whips specs. 1990 subaru Legacy L wagon 2.2l 5 spd 250k miles new plug wires 70% tread life on tires. 2 or 2.5" magnaflow exhasut from the y pipe back K&N drop in swiss cheese under belly air box new clutch junkyard trans 2 year old maaco paint - metallic blue. all power options including ac converter in back for goodies and stuff. Clarion CD player Pioneer speakers Clean Clean Clean. Anyways heres the issues I wanna work out before I pass it on to another enthusiast. 3rd gear grind. Doesnt do it when trans is cold,only after everything has warmed up really good. loping idle after warm up. Tach sits around 500 rpm. Check engine light is on. If Im correct there are 2 cats on these vars stock , right? Well one of mine is gone since the PO did the exhaust job. Im gonna go to autozone tomorrow and haver them pull the code for the check engine light. As far as the 3rd gear grind. I have read thru the search engine about some flushing and additives and redline oil but since I dont wanna spend a bunch of money I gotta decide which route to go. Also PO did not change the trans fluid when doing the trans swap and new clutch. Siily owner. How many quarts do i need to buy to replace the trans fluid? Thanx Ill get pics soon and itll be FS for about 1k - $1200 when Im done gettin her all dialed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 The 3rd gear grind is probably the synchro. Replace the fluid, see if that helps. You can add a little bit of penzoil synchromesh to help. If none of that helps, you or the next owner will just have to live with it. The first gen legacies are OBD1. Instructions to pull the codes & code info is on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Yes there are two cats. One in the header pipe, and one in the mid pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 25, 2005 Author Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thanx. Im gonna drain the trans and fill w/new fluid. probably gonna go with Redline 75w90nt , I think thats what its called. There is No midpipe cat anymore. The only cat is the header pipe. Are there also 2 O2 sensors, and where at? Probaly one in the header cat and one in the now gone mid pipe cat. I also gonna seafoam the car this week aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 25, 2005 Author Share Posted October 25, 2005 I bought straight 80w90 gear oil as its cheaper then exp. w/redline. If the standard gear oil doesnt work then Ill , if i still have it, try some redline. What about straight 80w90 Penzoil syncromesh ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 25, 2005 Author Share Posted October 25, 2005 As far as pulling codes it looks Like all I need to do is connect the 2 black terminals together then turn the ign on. Its all starting to come back to me now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 26, 2005 Share Posted October 26, 2005 I bought straight 80w90 gear oil as its cheaper then exp. w/redline.If the standard gear oil doesnt work then Ill , if i still have it, try some redline. What about straight 80w90 Penzoil syncromesh ? I wouldn't run straight syncromesh because I don't believe it's GL 5 rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 26, 2005 Author Share Posted October 26, 2005 Back of the bottle says good for all yellow metals = copper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBrian Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 I bought straight 80w90 gear oil as its cheaper then exp. w/redline.I have 80w90 in my 5mt, and it's fine in the summer, but it sucks in the winter. When it gets cold, it's really, really hard to get into 2nd, and it's hard to get into the other gears as well, until it warms up. I don't know if it snows much in Oregon, but I would spend the $25 on the specified gear oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 27, 2005 Author Share Posted October 27, 2005 80w90 is the specified gear oil, is it not? temps rarely get below 35 in salem oregon. Its usually between 38 and 60 in the winters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 Back of the bottle says good for all yellow metals = copper Yes, but your hypoid gears in the differential also use the same gear oil and need a larger amount of EP (extreme pressure) additives. That is what the GL5 rating means. More EP additives compared to GL4. People have run GL4 only in their subaru transmissions. I don't think you're going to see an immediate issue, but who's to say down the road several years you have issues with your differential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 27, 2005 Author Share Posted October 27, 2005 ahhhh ................. I hear ya. Well so much for that idea. Gonna just try a overnight drain of the trans gear oil and then fill with fresh 80w90 stock and see if that works. If it doesnt work then Ill try some high dollar stuff. I can fill my trans w/the stock 80w90 for the same cost as 1 quart of redline. Hebce try the cheap stuff 1st . Its not like its gonna hurt anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 27, 2005 Author Share Posted October 27, 2005 Pulled the codes. 11 22 23 24 32 33 49 Now this car has probably had these stored for awhile so Im gonna reset the ECU and see what pops up while I drive it. Also have to remember I have a K&N drop in aswell as butchered underside of airbox and a 2" Magnaflow exhaust w/the 2nd cat removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 27, 2005 Author Share Posted October 27, 2005 Ok car is sitting overnight with the battery unplugged because its 1am and Im to tired to do anymore. Ill hook it back up in the mornin. ECU will def. be reset by then , LOL. Anyways , man the trans fluid was LOW. Barely even showed up on the dipstick. Drained it and refilled it with 80w90 GL-5 gear oil Drained and filled oil with 10w30 syn blend (Conoco) Seafoamed the engine thru the PCV valve - I actually removed the PCV valve and filled thru the hole so as to get all the cylinders = smokey , LOL Replaced old gunked up PCV with fresh new one Realigned the driver window and got it back on track, rolls up and down nicely now. And pulled all the codes as stated above. Well see what tomorrow brings. Im going to bed. Goodnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted October 28, 2005 Author Share Posted October 28, 2005 OK codes are cleared . Check engine light stayed off till I got about 2 miles down the hwy @ 60mph. Need to pull the codes. Bought some electronics cleaner for the MAF and to R&R the old O2 sensor since i dont have the money to replace it. The electronics cleaner I have will 0 residue and has no flashpoints . I have used it on many a VW MAF. I should have the outcome by late tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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