NuclearBacon Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 ok bla bla ....87 GL-10 Turbo Sedan FT 4WD 5 speed..... ok! so i change out a crap connector that was giving me a code 21 and put a new coolant temp sensor in... turn the key ...awesome.. no check engine light.. go for a little drive ...still no light... almost home... pull into the driveway.. and check engine light comes on... grrrr.... so now i go to get the codes (ive read about 30 different ways to get the codes out ... so this is what i did..) turn the car on... engine idling....CEL on... plug in the green connectors ONLY, computer flashes 3 long, 1 short, then the CEL goes out and flashes the normal 2 short stating a manual california car (or whatever the code is for a manual california car) ........ unplug the green connectors, CEL is on again, plug the green in, flashes the 3 long 1 short and the light goes out .....repeats.... so... i check this "31" code im getting... and it doesnt exist as far as i can tell... and why does the CEL go out after it blinks 3, then 1 like that? i mean, do i suck? is this something that needs to be cleared or something, and everything is actually ok? (haha in my dreams) am i flashing for codes COMPLETLY wrong, and im screwing something up? i'd like to go get my car smogged tomorrow so i can take it up to rally school please help! thanks! Luigi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 if the CEL comes on there is no reason to plug in anything. any time the CEL comes on the ECU should be flashing the corresponding code on the ECU while you're driving around, idling or whatever. as soon as the CEL comes on, do nothing but pop the trunk and read the code. connectors are used for diagnostic and read memory mode, both of which i've found very little need for in the last 15 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 you say you changed out the connector. did you install a used water temperature sensor? was it clean? corroded at all? i'd still bet your water temperature sensor is causing the issue, i've had mad issues with these over the years so i came up with this permanent fix: http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=water+sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuclearBacon Posted June 5, 2006 Author Share Posted June 5, 2006 gary man, great info, i'll double check, and then i'll probably get to solderin' thats kinda my special anyway i'll double check the codes, and see whats up thanks! Luigi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuclearBacon Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 ok so i soldered the connectors... and all looks well... but the check engine light comes back... when the car is cold... it won't have a check engine light.... bu as soon as it been driven for about 8 to 10 minutes, the light comes on... with a code 31.. so thats TPS... do you think the connectors could be bad on that? grr.. back to the garage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 the connectors or wires to the TPS could be bad. the only time i've seen it, it was obvious because you could just wiggle the connector by hand and the engine would buck, shake, try to stall then idle smooth....all over the place. connector was clean and fine. i worked my way back from the connector and started bending the wire around looking for short, got to a place about 3 or 4 inches behind the connector where every move i made in the wiring would cause severe engine idling issues. i installed another connector with 6-8 inches of wire and all was well. have you ever touched the TPS or throttle body before for anything? the TPS on an XT6 can be cleaned out fairly easily. someone just posted a write up on how to do it at http://www.xt6.net , he said his car smoothed out considerably in drivability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuclearBacon Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 gary you're freakin awesome.... ok ! so i went out there... and pulled the two wire, three prong plug off the throttle body and two of the connectors were COMPLETLY green with corrosion... ew... so i sanded down the prongs... but i cant get into the plug to clean it out.. i was thinking a baking soda mix like on car batteries.. but i didnt know if that would work..... thats gotta be it.... right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 i replied to your PM, you can copy and paste it here if you think it'll help someone later. but yes, that green is your enemy. clean it out as best you can but it'll usually come back once it's infested the connector. on the couple that i've actually cut the green corrossion even works it's way back the wiring harness once it gets up in the connector. i'd start looking for a non-green used connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuclearBacon Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 excellent... i cleaned the green, put some dielectric grease on it... about to go for a drive... i'll be back in about... 20 minutes... we'll seeeeeeeeeeeeee...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuclearBacon Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 ALLLRIGHTY!!! so! this is what happened.... I put the grease on the connector and completely cleaned it off.... Start the car.... No CEL ... WOOHOO!!! *arms still up in the air* CEL on... crap. FINE! I’ll bust out the Factory Shop Manual (FSM) electrical diagram and see where everything is... I look at the road map of the connectors... and one of the connectors goes into the same plug that the knock sensor goes into (plug = gigantic engine harness plug, one of like 2 or 3 close to the battery in the engine compartment). If you've read any of my other posts... I HATE the knock sensor.. and had to rewire it because I had a short in the wire. SO! I'm thinking the same thing. short somewhere, directly run a line to the computer. Sounds good! I can make electrical connectors ect to go into the actual plug that sits into the computer. SO! out comes the FSM, and I see one plug goes to pin 25. Out with the multimeter, check for continuity, looking for the pin. I find one pin that it connects to, and it makes no continuity with any other pins, so I feel there is no short (and the resistance is super low). looks great, from the connector all the way to the computer. fantastic. one down, one to go... I plug into the second port on the plug and search for a short. I start roaming with the other connector. BEEP! I have continuity.... BEEP! BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP!!!! ...wait... 5 connections?!?! I follow this madness on the electrical schematic.. and it goes to pin 4...which also branches out to pins 9, 14, 15, and 13. And if I follow pin 4, it goes into the Mass Air Flow Sensor....holy hell. How do I even begin this??? *feeling of ultimate SCREWEDNESS* I sit there looking at the electrical diagram, ready to call it quits for further research, and I go back to the big plug (affectionately called plug "A" by the FSM) and look at it, hoping it will call out the answer... .......and I notice one of the female receiving ends on one of the pins is pushed down... almost too far to make a connection.... ...........interesting. I push it back into place, and connect everything up.... it works.. CEL is no more. went for 30 miles... no problem. HOLY CRAP!!! When I worked at Circuit City for 2 1/2 years, one of the ways we learned to sell monster cable is to tell the customer "Your connection is only as good as your weakest link." PIN 12 !!! YOU'RE THE WEAKEST LINK! GOODBYE! HAHA I WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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