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O2 sensor?

Featured Replies

Hello everyone, I just bought a universal O2 sensor and it says to cut and splice. Will I have to do this or is it plug and go? Thank you.

"Universal"s usually come with no connector, so yes, you have to cut off the connector of the original and splice on the new connector. Usually they say to not change the length of the sensor-to-connector wire.

 

Couple bucks more probably would get you a direct fit EGO sensor.

I just replaced my 02 sensor and came across the same thing: short 2" stub wire from sensor and connector 2 feet away....hmmmm....

 

Someone had posted that the length on this type (single wire) probably won't make a difference so I followed his post and used the Universal 02 unit. I took the old lead which all ready had one cut and splice, stripped wire and soldered the wire together at both locations, (mechanical connectors are fine) then shrink wrap connections.

 

I did a resistance check and vertually none in added length... and how else could it been run anyway? Connected and ran great.

Maybe I was a little confusing. My universal EGO sensor said to try to keep the total length from the new sensor to the wiring harness connector about the same as the original.

  • Author

Thank you for the replies. I was going to change the O2s yesterday but I couldn't get the old one out. My parts car, 87 GL wagon, has a brand new exhaust system so I tried to swap it out but I had no tools for cutting. I will be doing this today and also be putting on a glass pack to replase the turbo mufflef I put on before. Again I thank you for the info.

Just crawled out from underneath doing same job.

 

At risk of major redundancy, here's a post I was going to put somewhere, figure this is as good as any...:brow:

 

'89 EA82 CEL on but runs ok and mileage good if not improving? ECU says oxygen sensor (original). Old one is BOSCH A24630 (one-wire). Replacing with 'universal sensor' BOSCH 11027 short wire w/crimp. Looks like the BOSCH 11051 might be a better fit (longer wire with connector) can't vouch for connector being right. Car up on ramps, wrench from underneath. Needed lots of Pyroil to come loose, heated up the CAT first (ran engine for 5 min) and sprayed Pyroil every 5 min then tried wrench (22 mm is best, I used a 7/8 open end socket which rounded off the nut some). After an hour+ it came loose not with a 'snap' but a gradual loosening. Cut off connector from old sensor to same total length as original and crimp/heat shrink + Ultra black to seal ends. Solder as a precaution if your crimping technique or tooling leaves something to be desired like mine. Use a tiny bit of anti-seize on threads but avoid slopping onto sensor tip. Install and avoid cross-threading, easier said than done working upside down. Instructions says to tighten to 37-44 ft-lb (can't do w/o special socket). Start up and CEL goes out after four blocks.

  • Author

Got it done and runs like a champ:headbang: . The exhaust that I put on from the parts car had a bunch of water in it and a lot of white smoke came out the backside. That scared the snot out of me, but I was thinking, the parts car was leaking coolant so I just let it burn out and all is good. The O2s was also put in and works. The glass pack is in and sounds GREAT, after I got it hot and put water in it just to speed up the process.

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