(No help at NASIOC)

 

OK, my HG is blown and I can not drive her very much longer than I have or I will risk loosing my heads to the heat. It is time for a rebuild. Here is what I am considering, I need some insight as to what would be the most benificial for my driving style. I mostly just do some auto x ing and maybe some open class rally. Really, I just to like to find an open country road in the back woods, and do some spirited driving. (go ahead and flame you do it to).

I have read the faqs, and I have done the research, now I just need some feed back.

What I have. BG5 98 GT wagon auto 2.5 GT DOHC

What I am doing regardless..

WRX (later model) 5 spd rear diff conversion

What I am wanting to know:

Option 1

Go N/A, delta cams grind (220), TB spacer, underdrive pulley, shaved heads, ARP studs, valve job, P&P, new valve springs, CAI, Exhaust (2.25 seems to be about right).

 

Option 2;

Get a Ver 7 short block (sti), injectors, and fuel pump, use my EJ25 N/A heads, ARP studs, TD04 turbo (stock WRX), S-AFC, and of course the basics CAI, Exhaust, etc, with a front mount.

Basically with the short block, I want something I can just plug in, I dont want all of the headaches of wireing. I figure if I use my heads, the wireing will be a lot easier.

I am shooting for 250-300whp turbo, and 200 if I go NA.

My main question is, is how dependable is the STi block with NA heads? What are the differances other than the flow rates, variable valve timing, and larger valves (I am not sure on that one).

If anyone can shed some light on this, I would appreciate it, I am beginning the rebuild/swap around the middle of Jan, and I need to know what I need to buget for it. Thanks, for any thoughts/ info

I would say for option 1, you're looking at probably $3,000 on the low end...and could go up another $1,000 or so, depending on the machining labor and stuff.

 

Option 2 can potentially be less expensive if you find all the stuff used, and just plop the used stuff in. If you go about replacing the used components, and/or rebuild the motor....you're going to be looking at more money.

 

My only comments about option 2 are that you're going to need more then an S-AFC to properly tune and operate that setup. It's going to run like poop with an S-AFC. You need a piggy back option, stand alone, or you need to hack/reprogram your ECU, if that will even work.