TheMeatWagon Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 The wagon I went and picked up yesterday won't go into 4wd or 4low. I pull up on the selector and put it in 4wd and the light will come on in the cluster but the car doesn't actually go into 4wd. I put it in 4low and it's definately still in high. The guy I bought it from said that when he went wheeling in it last it was the same way. From searching on here I found it could possibly be the vacuum selector? I found the big white res. by the passenger strut tower but I don't see any hoses or cables going under the car, the only thing I see is the wiring harness coming up through to power it. Later when my buddy is here I'll try to see if I can hear it when he puts it in 4wd or 4low. Could I get a little more of a description of where to manually switch it to 4low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msteel Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 I'm pretty sure that the only GL/Loyale models that used the vacuum solenoids and vacuum actuators are the single range pushbutton models. The solenoids would be by the drivers side strut tower, but won't be there on your car because it dual range. The dual range transmission linkages are totally mechanical, so if it is not going into 4hi/4lo, then you probably have a problem with the linkages being loose or out of adjustment. The lights may go on because the lever is activating the switches, but the linkages aren't doing the right thing at the transmission end. Less likely is thepossibility that there is a problem with the transmission itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 Ah okay thanks. Don't know wtf I'm looking at then. I'll have to try to figure out where that linkage hooks up then and see if I can figure out what's wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 I went back out and figured out where it connects to the tranny. When I'm looking from the passenger side of the vehicle and when it's in 2wd it points up and a little bit to the back. When it's in 4low it points up and to the front of the car a little. So it's definately hooked up. What else should I check now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 If you look at the passenger side rear of the transmission, you should see a rod coming in up high. This rod attaches to a rod in the transmission. If you follow the rod inside the transmission forward, you will see it comes back out of the transmission about 6" forward. There is a ball-joint, and a rod that goes to the front of the transmission, up to a lever by the dipstick tube. This is what selects hi and lo range. The 4wd is selected back where the rod goes through the rear of the transmission. How does the lever inside the car feel when you shift it? It should be fairly solid, not loosy-goosy. 4wd should click in with about 2" of lever travel, and 4lo in about 4" of travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 It clicks just like you say it should. It's nice and firm as well. You know yesterday I didn't have a chance to really test 4wd. It definately wasn't 4low though so perhaps it's the part up front you are talking about. I was told the 4wd wasn't hooked up but maybe he just meant 4low. I'll go check it out where it comes back out for low gearing. Just went back out and looked at what you said. The 4 low selector thing is definately moving. Later today after I replace the wheel bearing I'll play around with it some more and see if I can find anything. Are there any fuses related to 4wd or is it all mechanical on this car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 I does have it's rear driveshaft and rear axles hooked up right? What would they mean, "the 4wd is not hooked up"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 Well that's exactly what I wondered. He didn't seem to know much about it. I have it up in the air right now and the drive shaft and axles are all right where they should be. When I turn a wheel everything turns. It all looks how it should. I'm going to keep playing with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 If the Hi/Lo selector is moving on the trans(the one by the diff dipstick) you should be getting Lo range. Does it go there and then you get no drive? or does it just stay in High and drive in High? IF that little lever is moving, but nothing is changing then it could be the selector fork itself inside tranny that actaully moves the gear is bent or broken. To test the 4wd put it in 4wd and then turn tight circles in a parkinglot. If it feels like the brakes are on and the car *hops* around the turn you're 4wd works. Don't do this too much though cause it stresses the drivetrain. What's confusing me is that other than being connected by the linkage for shifting it all, the 4wd and the Hi/Lo systems are totally independent. You should read the *2 stick mod* thread in the off-road section. This will give you a bit more insite as to the way the 2 systems are connected. You could remove the the linkage from the Hi/Lo selsector on the trans, and move it by hand 2 both positions. YOu should be able to get Hi and Lo this way. If you can then you know the problem is with the linkage and where it goes through the rear of the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 Sweet thanks for the info. After I get this wheel bearing fixed I'll go try all of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 Here the twin stick writeuphttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71289 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 Sooo I figured out part of my problem. I was going to replace the rear wheel bearing today because the wheel had a lot of jiggle to it. As I was trying to take off the axle for the back right wheel I noticed that when I spun the wheel the axle didn't turn with it. Thought maybe the wheel bearing was just way loose or something. I pulled off the drum and did a double take. The whole inside of the drum that is usually grooved for the axle was completely bare. It was practically polished. The axle still looked okay with a minor bit of wear. I went to the PAP yard and found a new drum but I can't get it on, I think the axle got a little bit dicked up. Tomorrow I'm going to try to refile the splines and mount the new drum. I might just have to buy a whole new axle though. This explains both why my wheel had such bad wobble and why that wheel wasn't getting any power to it. The other side is fine, the axle turns when I turn the wheel. Hopefully this cures my 4wd problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 Okay I'm going to keep this updated in case anyone in the future is searching and is having a similar problem. I just now went back out and lined up the drum more or less and just went around in circles tapping it with a hammer until it was all the way on. At that point it was totally locked on there. I couldn't get it back off so I put my wheel back on and hand tightend some lug nuts and just rocked it all around for a couple of minutes. I pulled it back off and the drum had come off about a half inch. I was then able to get a couple of good whacks with a hammer and now it comes off and goes back on great. Woot. Only problem is when the wheel is on and I turn it it feels like the parking break is on and sounds horrible. I think if I would've known the problem before I left and replaced it I would've been great buuuut I drove it 300 miles so the wheel bearing took a total beating. Schucks didn't have any in stock so I have to go to their main store tomorrow to get one. After that I think my 4wd will work fine and I'll have a wheel that actually spins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 Good luck, nice to hear it was something "simple." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 To get at the inner bearing you will need to undo the large ringnut that holds the axleshaft into the hub. First punch out the roll pins from the axles. remove the lower strut bolt so you can push the hub down further and try to slide the axle off of the stubs. Once it is off, from the back side you will see there is a large ringnut inside hub body. it has 4 notches and one of them should have the hub housing hammered down *staking* the nut in place. Hammer out the *staking* then using a punch drive the ringnut Counter clockwise till you can remove it. There are special socket tools to do this but i'm betting you don't have one so use the punch. You may find you want to pull the whole rear arm because it will need to have the new bearings pressed in. A few people have managed to do the job with hammers and punches and torches and what not, but I think it easier( and quicker) to just pay a shop to use a press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 I went to order a bearing online just now and it'd be about a hundred bucks. Not worth it to me when I can go to the PAP yard and just get a new hub for 30 bucks I think. The wagon at the PAP yard I went to yesterday had a hub in great shape and a big chunk of the work is already done after what I pulled off yesterday. I might as well snag an extra axle off it while I'm there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 I went to order a bearing online just now and it'd be about a hundred bucks. Not worth it to me when I can go to the PAP yard and just get a new hub for 30 bucks I think. The wagon at the PAP yard I went to yesterday had a hub in great shape and a big chunk of the work is already done after what I pulled off yesterday. I might as well snag an extra axle off it while I'm there too. Pull the whole arm. Unbolt the lower strut bolt and the 17mm bolts connecting the arm and a brake line. It'll be way easier than trying to remove and reinstall bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 Cool I'll do that when I get home. The Lynnwood PAP yard is about half an hour from me and it has oh so many rust free subies just waiting to be stripped. Hubs and axles and interiors galore. Should be much cheaper and easier to get a wheel bearing that works just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 I got all the 17mm bolts off and the lower strut bolt. It's ready to come except that brake line. Do you take it out from the back of the hub or up above the top part where it mounts to the arm? I can't get a wrench to get any grip on the back of the hub at the little nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 Nevermind I got it off. I think tomorrow I'll had to the PAP yard. Now I'm trying to get the axle off from the diff side and have the worlds most screwed up spring pin. Both sides are chewed to hell so I can't get a punch to seat anywhere and the more I try the worse it gets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 Wow that was one screwed up roll pin. I finally went and got a real punch and smacked it for awhile and the thing just kept going inside the pin and getting stuck. Finally I got it to seat right and whacked it and the punch went all the way through. I pulled it out and shined the flash light in the hole and nothing was in there. I looked all around on the ground and saw no pin. I pulled the axle off the stub and about 8 pieces of shattered pin as well as a broken off drill bit tip fell out. Looks like the previous owner was trying to get it off also. It's off now and ready for the new arm and hub tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 13, 2007 Author Share Posted May 13, 2007 I went to the Lynnwood PAP yard today and went to that same red Loyale I pulled that drum off of last time and went to the right side this time. I made sure to bring a tire iron this go around so I could get at everything. I forgot my hammer but used my break bar as a hammer to pound out the axle roll pin (holy crap they're easy to get out when they aren't broken and I'm using the right sized punch). Then I tried to disconnect the brake line where I had on my other one and stripped the crap out of those soft little nuts. I just cut it off a little below that. Then I took off the other 5 bolts holding the whole thing together and it all fell right off. I went to another Subaru they had there and pulled the brake line and put it all together. I was able to find a nice shiney battery tie down too . (I broke my other using it as a roll pin punch per some USMB thread /sadface) Tried to remount the new arm today and the bump stop disc thing on the arm made it impossible to remount the new hardware with my lift. That disc pushes against my strut so nothing will line up right. When I get off work in the morning I'll grind that down and hopefully that will be my last post for this thread. I'll need to bleed my brakes and I want to do my plugs and fuel filter and then it's off to test my 4wd and make sure my low is working. Beautiful weather for working on cars up here the last few days . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMeatWagon Posted May 14, 2007 Author Share Posted May 14, 2007 Well ************. I just got it back together and went wheeling and the rear wheels aren't moving at alllll. Just the fronts are spinning. The low gearing definately works but the rear just doesn't go. The driveshaft and axles are definately there but for some reason the wheels aren't getting power. What should I look for next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 Leave the fronts on the ground. Shift into 4WD, then lift the rear end and try to turn the driveshaft. It should not move if the 4wd is engaging. If it spins then the problem is in the trans. I'd pull the cover off the top of the transfer section of the Trans. See if the shift fork for the 4wd is still connected. If the Driveshaft doesn't move, it means the 4wd is working in the trans and you have a rear diff problem. I'd pull the cover off the rear diff and see if the pinion shaft for the spiders is busted. Look for any other busted parts too. And are you certain that you're CVs on both axles are good. Is it possible one of them is trashed and the axle is spinning in the cup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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