Return of the "How do I convert to RWD?" thread

[SakoTGrimes]

Been a while since I've seen one, this time it's me wanting to do it.

 

78 Brat - remove the front axles.... what else? do I need to plug the transaxle shafts on the sides or are they OK exposed? And what do I need to do to get the axles out of the wheel assembly?

 

Thanks!

[Gloyale]

The axle shaft hold the hub to the knuckle, so you'll have to take off the outer boot, and pop the axle out of the inner CV race. Leave the outer part of the cup installed in the hub. just remove the inner CV joint and the shaft.

[simple monkey]

i would suggest reinforcing the rear diff and possibly the tranny tunnel. there is a guy on nasioc who pretty much built a whole rear sub-frame for his wagon. what do you plan on doing with rear wheel drive?

[Centrifugal]

what do you plan on doing with rear wheel drive?

 

drifting! mad burnouts! what else?

[SakoTGrimes]

The axle shaft hold the hub to the knuckle, so you'll have to take off the outer boot, and pop the axle out of the inner CV race. Leave the outer part of the cup installed in the hub. just remove the inner CV joint and the shaft.

 

What is the knuckle? And what is the CV race?

[MSSLGECKO]

Yo, all you really need to do is jack 1 (or both) front wheel(s). Then remove the wheel(s) and front axle(s). You then disassemble the front axle(s) (possibly using bad CV's that have low $ value). You want the outer cup off of the axle. Remove the outter boot, use a screwdriver(IIRC) to pry the ball bearings out then the inner race (IIRC that's the metal deal in the center that holds the ball bearings in place. Then you have an empty and disconnected outer axle cup. Reinstall this outer cup into the wheel hub. Bam you're ready to do your first RWD Lo Range Burn out (using 4WD). And if you don't have a D/R transmission, then you just wasted everyone's time (because it won't be much fun IMO). Cheers!

 

PS - There is no need to close up the tranny where the axles connect because it is already contained.

- Also, DO NOT ACCIDENTALLY SHIFT INTO FWD WHEN MOVING IN RWD(4WD), Your tranny will not take kindly to it. However, you can throw the transmission between Hi and Lo 4WD ranges (as if it's another gear using the clutch), which is in fact the funnest part of the RWD configuration!

 

Good luck, have fun, and be safe!

[SakoTGrimes]

Yo, all you really need to do is jack 1 (or both) front wheel(s). Then remove the wheel(s) and front axle(s). You then disassemble the front axle(s) (possibly using bad CV's that have low $ value). You want the outer cup off of the axle. Remove the outter boot, use a screwdriver(IIRC) to pry the ball bearings out then the inner race (IIRC that's the metal deal in the center that holds the ball bearings in place. Then you have an empty and disconnected outer axle cup. Reinstall this outer cup into the wheel hub. Bam you're ready to do your first RWD Lo Range Burn out (using 4WD). And if you don't have a D/R transmission, then you just wasted everyone's time (because it won't be much fun IMO). Cheers!

 

PS - There is no need to close up the tranny where the axles connect because it is already contained.

- Also, DO NOT ACCIDENTALLY SHIFT INTO FWD WHEN MOVING IN RWD(4WD), Your tranny will not take kindly to it. However, you can throw the transmission between Hi and Lo 4WD ranges (as if it's another gear using the clutch), which is in fact the funnest part of the RWD configuration!

 

Good luck, have fun, and be safe!

 

I don't have low range, I just want my pickup to be a little more truck like and spin the rears instead. Won't be doing too many sick burnouts with 65hp though. So.... pull the rubber cup off the axle, pry out the bearings then the exle will slide right out, correct? Getting it out of the wheel assembly is what I'm not 100% clear on yet.

[WoodsWagon]

You have to leave the end of the axle in the wheel assembly... it holds the wheel bearings toghether. That is why you need to dissasemble the outer CV joint like the people above said.

 

You only need to do this to one front axle. Leave the other completely in place, it won't cause any harm and makes it much easier to put things back toghether when you blow the rear end/driveshaft/tranny out of it.

 

On the side that you removed the axle, it is perfectly fine to leave the splined shaft sticking out of the transmission exposed.

 

Don't bother reinforcing anything. What's there is stronger than what is in the drivetrain.

 

I've grenaded 2 diffs, 2driveshaft U-joints, and one nice low milage D/R tranny running RWD. It wasn't just the rear output that went, the whole tranny chewed its self to chunks. Granted, it had 135hp feeding one end and 215/75r15's fighting it on the other, but it's easy to demolish the drivetrain. Watch out for wheel-hop.

 

I found hi-range was much better for burnouts than lo-range. Hi range let the wheels pick up some speed when you are smoking them, which makes the burnout easier to maintain.

 

Push on the footbrake hard, set the handbrake, let off on footbrake. Rev up engine to 2.5krpm, let clutch out sharply (don't dump it, but don't slowly feed it out either). Rear right will break loose. Let rear right come up to speed (engine around 5.5krpm). Turn the steering wheel left a bit, start easing out on handbrake. Left rear should break loose. Keep vehicle moving forward slowly with the hanbrake. When finished traveling distance sideways, POWER OUT OF THE BURNOUT. Ease the handbrake out all the way and let the tires spin until the hook up. Letting up on the gas will increase your chances of blowing the diff.

 

You better have a strong right hand. It took all I had to keep the wagon in check once the tires were fully warmed up. They were wide, grippy tires though.

 

Oh, and don't do this on the public street;)

[simple monkey]

you could always swap trannys, but then you would need a bellhousing to match. isn't the 13B tranny similar?

[SakoTGrimes]

I've come to the conclusion that I am developmentally disabled, as nobody's detailed descriptions have made sense to me. Fortunately Sean lives right next door to me and can help me get this done tomorrow.

 

So, what are rear Subaru diffs just uber-pussarific? Seems like it should be just as strong and last as long as a FWD transmission if you drive normally.

[daeron]

I've come to the conclusion that I am developmentally disabled, as nobody's detailed descriptions have made sense to me. Fortunately Sean lives right next door to me and can help me get this done tomorrow.

 

So, what are rear Subaru diffs just uber-pussarific? Seems like it should be just as strong and last as long as a FWD transmission if you drive normally.

 

From what I have read, its far from just the diff. if that were the only weak spot, all you would have to do would be install an R-180 or r-200 rear end from an old datsun and you would be set. (more complicated than i make it sound, but not awfully so.)

 

The rear output "circuit" of the transmission is made to handle about 50-65 horsepower, and similar amounts of torque; thats all it is SUPPOSED to handle. eventually, that much strain is going to break things.

[operose]

my xt6 sucked in RWD. couldn't make it up a wet grassy hill, and I had a locking center diff.

 

burnouts were fun but who's got enough money for that many tires.

 

drifting is ok too but I prefer to go fast through the twisties