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how do you remove the cv/axle from the trans?


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i'm trying to drop the trans to replace my clutch. but i'm not sure how to remove the cv's? my vw has allen bolts to remove, but the only thing on the loyale is the weird cog ring with the little lock, but i'm not sure that's what i want to remove???

 

any ideas? can i get away with leaving them connected?

 

thx

andrew

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Where the axle slides onto the tranny, there's a roll pin that goes through the axle and through the final drive stub. You need a punch of a Craftsman Torx screwdriver and a hammer to pound it out. There's actually a special tool that I've gotten from Mac Tools for 15 bucks. Its nice but before I got it, I used the Torx screwdriver and a mallet:-p

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hey, i dont know what your circumstances are, but i would consider moving the engine forward instead of dropping the tranny. that seems to be the generally accepted way to go. I dropped my tranny out when i did my clutch and i wished i had done it the other way. with a hoist and a proper tranny jack it would be ok, but with the car on jack stands and a floor jack, i HATED it.

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I have to agree, I missed the fact that you were replacing the clutch on it.

 

Remove the engine instead of the tranny. Its 10x easier and less stressful, plus while the engine is out, is a good time to take care of any oil leaks like the oil pan, valve covers, front and rear main seals and such. If the clutch is all you're after, just unbolt the exhaust, unbolt the 2 engine mounts, unbolt the 4 bellhousing bolts, the pitch stopper, fuel lines, alternator wiring, disty wiring, main engine harness, a couple small vac lines, 2 hear core lines, remove the PS pump and 2 brackets for the lines, AC compressor, and there's a few other little things that need to come off. I found it takes more time to pull just the tranny then it does to pull, swap and reinstall the engine but I can do a complete engine swap in like 4 hours on an SPFI EA82. Also remove the radiator for more room.

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I have to agree, I missed the fact that you were replacing the clutch on it.

 

Remove the engine instead of the tranny. Its 10x easier and less stressful, plus while the engine is out, is a good time to take care of any oil leaks like the oil pan, valve covers, front and rear main seals and such. If the clutch is all you're after, just unbolt the exhaust, unbolt the 2 engine mounts, unbolt the 4 bellhousing bolts, the pitch stopper, fuel lines, alternator wiring, disty wiring, main engine harness, a couple small vac lines, 2 hear core lines, remove the PS pump and 2 brackets for the lines, AC compressor, and there's a few other little things that need to come off. I found it takes more time to pull just the tranny then it does to pull, swap and reinstall the engine but I can do a complete engine swap in like 4 hours on an SPFI EA82. Also remove the radiator for more room.

 

yeah, i know it would probalby be easier, but i don't have a hoist, and i just want to replace the clutch. i only need the car to drive for a few more months then i'm driving it straight to the yard. so i'm not intersted in fixing the various leaks and i can't stand dealing with coolant :)

 

right now i've got the two seperated and the old clutch out. i put the new TO bearing on but the spring clips just don't feel that tight. is that normal? i noticed the TO is not concentric, and currently have it arranged so that the inner circle is higher up. is that correct? i don't have a manual so i have clue.

 

thx!

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