Corolla Frenzy Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Recent replacement of both heads, all new gaskets/filters/fluids. Close to normal operating temps, the oil and water temp gauges both drop like the key is shut off, loads of smoke comes out of the engine bay and it is very weak if it doesn't stall. This is the stupid ea82t that I'm learning, mainly through this site, really sucks rump roast. Can this all be in relation to a bad oil pump? I didn't replace that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Find out where all that smoke is coming from and chances are you found your problem if not most of your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joostvdw Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Recent replacement of both heads, all new gaskets/filters/fluids. Close to normal operating temps, the oil and water temp gauges both drop like the key is shut off, loads of smoke comes out of the engine bay and it is very weak if it doesn't stall. This is the stupid ea82t that I'm learning, mainly through this site, really sucks rump roast. Can this all be in relation to a bad oil pump? I didn't replace that. the ea82t does not per definition "suck" some people just have a lemon or bad luck, I've been driving my xt turbo for over 20.000kms without a single engine problem (loads of other problems, but no ea82t gremlims) as for your problem, find where the oil is coming from, it may be your PCV system sucking oil into the intake, so check/clean/replace the PCV valve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Close to normal operating temps, the oil and water temp gauges both drop like the key is shut off, loads of smoke comes out of the engine bay and it is very weak if it doesn't stall. There is something odd going on here... I realize that you have been over several issues on this car very recently, and have already posted much info up.. so please forgive me if the question im about to ask is absurdly redundant... but have you checked the codes on the beast? PCV system is definitely one place to look for problems if no codes show up. Just for clarification, you are saying that these symptoms occur right as the car is approaching "normal" operating temperature? Something is telling me that should give is a major clue right there, but the beer on my brain is making mental troubleshooting a bit tricky right now, heh.... What does the coolant look like? You running antifreeze/mix, or straight water? and chances of oil contamination? What color smoke comes out of the engine bay? Could this simply be a bad coolant hose on the turbo?? Possibly a bad seal somewhere in the turbo? You need to pinpoint the source of the smoke, and also tell us the color. I am just trying to throw ideas and thoughts at you to help you figure things out. IF you need a new turbo I JUST MIGHT have one that i can ship you fairly inexpensively' My uncle has some turbos kicking around in his shop and I have been meaning to determine whether they WERE EA82 turbos or not for some time now; this would be an EXCELLENT opposrtunity to finally get around to that. The EA82T isnt "craptastic," it is simply far more failure prone than our 350K mile without a blink (just a few timing belts and proper cooling system maintenance) non turbo engines. The big reason they have a bad rep is from people expecting them to either be tire screechers out of the box because its a boxer turbo, or people building them into tire screechers because its a boxer turbo. If your expectations are realistic, then you wont be disappointed. Just like my buddy with the Turbo Volvos. Patience is a virtue; all I have ever gotten from being upset is broken tools, sheared bolt heads, busted knuckles, and other such misery. Chances are that someone here has had the same problem you are before, so relax and help us help you. (okay, help the others more knowledgeable about the turbo engines.. "us" is stretching it since i have zero experience on this motor firsthand) HTH, and good luck; I'll keep an eye on this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corolla Frenzy Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 First I noticed the steam/smoke (unsure which) coming directly off the block. No official source. Also there is oil gathering on the top of the passenger cam plate crevices. I opened the radiator cap and couldn't tell if there was steam coming out. I opened up the oil filler cap and little to NOTHING came out. I let it get warm today and when the temp started moving, I shut it off to prevent more damage. I have not read codes as I cannot find the ECU or its led light and didn't want to ask in another thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 First I noticed the steam/smoke (unsure which) coming directly off the block. No official source.Also there is oil gathering on the top of the passenger cam plate crevices. I opened the radiator cap and couldn't tell if there was steam coming out. I opened up the oil filler cap and little to NOTHING came out. I let it get warm today and when the temp started moving, I shut it off to prevent more damage. I have not read codes as I cannot find the ECU or its led light and didn't want to ask in another thread. The ecu and its light are easy enough to find, but it is made simpler finding it the first time by removing the panel above the drivers feet. The ECU is a metal box there, about the size of a small to moderate car stereo amp.. It is screwed onto the bottom of the steering column, basically. The LED light is facing towards the back of the car, parallel to the ground.. It is recessed into the casing, so you are basically just looking for a hole to watch for flashes, until you have seen the light.. Once you find it all yourself for the first time, the detailed directions are superfluous.. but it can be a bit tricky finding that light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corolla Frenzy Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 Should I let it warm up then check the codes or are they stored? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j2coe Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 codes will be stored, dont have to start the car just turn the key to power. I don't see what model it is in the thread so unless it's an odd one the ECU should be under the steering column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corolla Frenzy Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 I think its a regular Loyale? was auto, but is now 5sp. turbo, 4wd, outboard ac, the works. This thing is more loaded than a taurus! I'll be checking this area out. Hopefully it's nothing like my z31 where you must remove the ecu to see the lights! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 shouldnt be anything like the Z-car. (BTW, I had no idea.. Z-car FTW!) There are three different types of codes: Active codes are codes being outputted while the check engine light is on. If the CEL is off, then the LED will not be blinking anything at you. (BTW, the LED on the ECU is also an O2 monitor lamp; it comes on whenever the O2 sensor senses a "rich" condition, so just seeing it flicker on and off doesnt mean anything.) Stored codes are codes showing CEL events from the past; in other words, CEL comes on, goes off, the computer stores the code. These are accessed by plugging in the "white connectors." Then turn on the car, and it should output the stored codes that were causing the CEL. Then there are D-check codes. D-check is a dealership diagnostic mode that you put the ECU into by plugging in the green connectors and revving the engine above 2K for 30 (?) seconds. The CEL starts to flash annoyingly, and once the CEL is flashing check the LED. A long flash is 10, a short flash is 1. a code, 48 for instance, (not a real code AFAIK) would be four long pulses, followed by eight shorts. Read the entry in the USRM, or download the FSM at http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm for more detailed instructions on the complete procedure, and the list of code meanings. IF the computer just outputs a series of short blinks (less than ten) it is simply an ID code meaning USDM model vs California model, trans type, etc. It also means that there are no codes. It will only output this if in D-check or read memory mode, with no codes, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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