Corolla Frenzy

I think its a regular Loyale? was auto, but is now 5sp. turbo, 4wd, outboard ac, the works. This thing is more loaded than a taurus! I'll be checking this area out. Hopefully it's nothing like my z31 where you must remove the ecu to see the lights!

Should I let it warm up then check the codes or are they stored?

First I noticed the steam/smoke (unsure which) coming directly off the block. No official source. Also there is oil gathering on the top of the passenger cam plate crevices. I opened the radiator cap and couldn't tell if there was steam coming out. I opened up the oil filler cap and little to NOTHING came out. I let it get warm today and when the temp started moving, I shut it off to prevent more damage. I have not read codes as I cannot find the ECU or its led light and didn't want to ask in another thread.

Recent replacement of both heads, all new gaskets/filters/fluids. Close to normal operating temps, the oil and water temp gauges both drop like the key is shut off, loads of smoke comes out of the engine bay and it is very weak if it doesn't stall. This is the stupid ea82t that I'm learning, mainly through this site, really sucks rump roast. Can this all be in relation to a bad oil pump? I didn't replace that.

Can I put a non-turbo engine in this car directly?

Not looking to dump $ into this thing. I wonder if anybody has successfully done a megasquirt ecu on ej22 or others...I have this 'megaturd', as I call it, laying around...

The sound doesn't bother me. the smoke and stalling and leaving me stranded bothers me. thats why im backing out of the whole thing.

I already have the love/hate. It's in my screen name, born 1985 and has, so far, been the story of my life. Pathetic, I know. The loyale kicked me where it counts and I've lost all faith. I hate being stranded on a highway left turn lane with smoke billowing out of the hood. The typical 'old car' syndrome. Funny thing is I drove it 27 miles. Who knew? This one isn't getting much love from me after the 3hr drive north for some parts and a headache w/title stuff. Gotta cut it loose!

First $600 takes this thing. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=653873#post653873

Drivetrain has to stay the same as tercel is fwd and corolla is rwd, but the engine can be exchanged for a larger 1.6 4AC or a twincam 16v 4AGE or a supercharged 4AGZE. mmmmm mmmmmm fun fun fun! Make it 4wd! The 4x4 bits should bolt up once you get the 4wd trans. on topic: No luck on finding my comp tester. This sucks :( I think I'll start it and see what it does in the colder weather. What would be the cause of a steamy/smokey crank case?

Well I'm thinking there isn't rod knock since it goes away and comes back randomly. I think something is loose. I was warned the oil pump in these things make better coffee cup coasters than their supposed purpose and to get oem new since its updated...I didn't :-\ It did get a little hot when I had the ac on tho, but only 3/4 to the red. could that do damage? Even the oil filter was steaming/smoking! I don't know if it's oil burning off or it got so hot that its melting itself down. Wish there was some subaru freak that can come check this thing out in person :-\ I would do an ej22, but the whole dash thing...i can do it, but....i really dont want to. Are there any known ej22 engines being run off megasquirt ecu? http://www.megasquirt.info for those who dont know what MS.

haha yea my digicam sucks. sorry. The whole crack case was smoking and lots of pcv. few friends looked and said they think something isnt right. i cant find my comp tester!! ugggggggggg It also didnt want to start and lost power. almost left me stranded at the bank. oil is filling the small notches on top of the passenger head...which I think is coming from the oil filler cap. also, is the oil pressure gauge supposed to read 0-5 (barley moving) at 3k rpm in 5th gear? This thing has me worried. I don't want to replace this engine!

Does it? p.s. I know it has a whine/squeak. No, I don't know what it is.

So yea, that crow bar picture is funny, but devistatingly bad to do. Found out it is in fact the width. 15485 didnt fit, but 17485 did hahahah guess that small width does a huge difference. Problem solved and I got frozen when I tested the ac! I had to shut it off!!!!

haha 4th trip back to the parts store. Asked for 1 inch bigger...yea...asked for half an inch smaller than the current one....they gave me half inch bigger. BLOODY HELL! So I'm ready to go to the stealerjip for a $40,000,000,000 belt hahah (seems that bad sometimes) uggg

Wondering how he didn't break that belt when I busted mine with a 12" screw driver not even using the sharp end, just sliding it on.

I think I damaged it to the point of no returning it. Maybe they'll let me swap it? I put the old belt on (pictures of THAT will be up soon) to test AC and sure enough......it works! hurrah! Tried the slip it on tight so it doesn't move, then bump the whole car while in gear to get the engine to force it on....no-go at all, then I tried the 0.2 seconds of starter and that proved to fail. I have the wrong belt.

Even more help! Man, I feel like a mooch for all this good-to-know info! Again and always, thanks much!!

O gawd I know! v-belt FTL!! My 1980 rolla has 3 of them, but the length of the adjust-o bolt is as long, or shorter than the loyale's and it fit absolutely perfect. How dumb. I want to know if my AC works! Bloody aftermarkets! Well good to know it isn't just me.

Is there a secret to it? Old one came off easy, but the new one won't go on, appears an inch or so too short, and both belts are too close to say they're different. Is there some secret? Wedge it on a pulley and bump the starter?

An led like nissans?? Crap! I didn't know that!!! So it'll flash with the key on and nothing plugged in? I'll go try that! Thanks!!!

There are four test modes. With NEITHER test connector connected, and the key in the ON (engine off) position, the light will display codes that relate to starting and driving. With ONLY the "Read Memory" connector connected, historic codes will be displayed. With ONLY the "Test Mode" connector connected, a dealership technician can perform dynamic tests. The last mode is for clearing codes (see below). I think this is where I got lost a bit. All these modes have different connectors or just 1 connector? Bottom line, the check engine light is on and I need to find out what is not connected/right. I just replaced the heads and didn't get the vac lines right. I've done this many times before on my rolla, but its only 1 plug and you jump the wires which 'locks timing' drops idle and busts out the codes, so when there sounds like more than just connecting 1 thing, i get a little lost. This board is n00b-friendly, right? :cool:

I did search and found green plugs under the wiper motor need to be connected only to lock timing, but there sounded like something else is needed to get the codes from the ecu. I've been searching for about half an hour to find only half of what I need and to suspect something beyond the green plugs is required.

Crap...now I know why I have that. It's a manual conversion. Oh well, the power light is kinda cool next to PRND2L haha Thanks guys! much appreciated! p.s. I don't know why I posted this in new generation when I gots me old crusty!

The drums? Datsun did that since the 60s.