Reveeen

is there a procedure in the service manual for changing them on the car Ok, well, I don't have a service manual, and I don't own a car with drum brakes. So, with a rear disk set-up, you gotta get the axle out, so, with the wheel on the ground, crack the axle nut (loosen), jack the car up, put on stands, take off wheel, brake stuff (rotor and caliper, I would assume drum) take nut off of axle, and remove the two strut bolts, This will let the carrier move enough to pull the axle out (flop the carrier towards you, push the axle back on the sliding joints) The hub should pull (maybe a bit of tapping necessary) out of the bearing. The bearing goes inwards. Now because the hub rides in the bearing check CAREFULLY the surface that the bearing rides on. New hubs are approx $120 (dealer only). Clean up the carrier (where the bearing goes with emery cloth) and carefully install it with oil to help it slide in, pulling it in place with the tool you made. Install everything you took off. I am not familiar with your specific car (year and drum brakes) it might be necessary to remove the bolts holding the diff in to get the axle out, mine comes out as described.

hopefully thats what it is The wheel bearings on your car, like mine, require a special tool. It would be awfully nice to put the bearing carrier in a hydraulic press, pushing the bearing in, and out, but you will distort (bend) the carrier. I'm pretty sure you could use a piece of hardened threaded rod, and a couple of machined up washers to draw the new bearing in, otherwise it is a dealer only operation. Don't forget the seals, one inner, one outer with each bearing. (seems to me that 2 seals and one bearing are about $75 locally (aftermarket), or at least that's what I recall paying)

The "easy stuff": Rear backing plates @290,000K they are rusty and maybe 1/2 gone. If a posi the rear tires HAVE to be the same diameter (check with string) The not so "easy": The wheel bearings are roller bearings, the ONLY way to check them is pull the axles, and hubs (unless they are blowed up) @290,000 the rear U joint has play in it If the car has been jacked up on the body side of the rear trailing arm make sure the bracket isn't bent negating the rubber. Check the rear sway bar and mounts. That's all I can *think* of.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/Car-Interior-Carpet/600013939.jcw I am offering this link as information, I am not guaranteeing any product, or service, I rely on you to use your common sense when doing business with ANYONE.

I *think* a car that does not "go" when you turn the key is almost as useless as a screen door on a submarine. With that firmly in mind is how I buy non-operational vehicles (willing to pay a small premium over scrap price). Now, how much something is worth to you is something only you can determine, but may I suggest that maybe, there may be a bit better deal "out there" for you, don't act in haste, look around, and come back to this "deal" better informed, one way, or the other.

But, do you really want the "back spacing"? By the time you get a tire on those wheels you would have to check the clearance between the tire and the strut spring mounts. Good idea (on your part), offset inwards would really take the stress off of the wheel bearings, but you have the front strut spring seats to contend with. I suppose you could fabricate some kind of coil over shock replacement that uses a smaller diameter spring.

Doesn't JC Whitney offer moulded carpet? (I have some auto restorer types I know buy from them for older vehicles)

They were not "regular" KYB struts, they were stamped KYB, but painted black (stealth?), not silver, and did not have a KYB sticker. Oddly they were a lot larger diameter than the KYBs they were replacing (both body and piston shaft).

132 FT LBS! The info is on my other computer, but 132 ft/lbs, I don't think so! 1. Has this happened to anyone else? Ah, no, because there is a torque sequence that DOES NOT INCLUDE 132 ft/lbs 2. How the he!! does one get the piece out? Take the head off, center punch/drill/easy out, or try welding a piece to it, or heat with a torch and throw ice/cold water on it (making sure you throw out any other bolts you have applied crazy amounts of torque to, replacing them with new ones, seeing they are stretch bolts, and you have rendered them useless, then get the correct procedure before doing this again.

Rear struts Legacy Outback Being the economy minded fellow that I am I bought Gabriel rear struts CHEAP! On the box: Gabriel Ultra #G55867, G55868 Inside the box: KYB 733472, 733473 Ask no questions, get told no lies, less than 1/2 the price of KYBs.

You have posted about either of two "lift kits". I have purchased neither, preferring to make my own, but either way, there is a certain amount of fabrication to be done. What you are doing is installing blocks (spacers) between the bolt on sub-frame assemblies on the car. Considering the newest car you are potentially installing on is 14 years old (assuming you are not lifting a new generation), this age factor could play a major part in your ability to simply get the bolts out. Then we have to discuss the amount of lift, the higher the lift, the more "things" are going to be out of place, things like hoses (fuel, brake, and water), the coil wire that doesn't quite reach any more, the shifter linkage that has to be adjusted (or lengthened/angled), the rear shifter mount that is likely bad, only to be made worse/inoperable, with the increased angle, the found to be bad U joint while the drive shaft is out, the steering shaft that has to be cut apart, lengthened, and welded, because it doesn't reach any more, the engine steady bar that has to be lengthened. No matter what kit you buy there is some fabrication involved.

I was told that it's only meant to hold like 140 HP Having one here in pieces 140HP is generous.

I thought xmsn would be clear. As clear as mud. shortcuts really expedite things Too bad you couldn't have xxxxxxx that transmission?

so i'm doing all the piping myself. I'm not going to say what you are making won't work, but, at least in my case, there are a whole lot of guys smarter than I am figuring out pipe sizes, and exhaust gas velocities, for me to want to stray too far from what is working out there. If you are going from a 2 turbo set-up give a big look at the single turbo set-ups on Subaru cars, maybe buying everything you need for the thing to work right out of a junkyard. I personally had good power results with an aftermarket cross over pipe and up pipe. I'm not sure a wastegate so remote from the scene of the crime (the turbo) is a good idea. I see aftermarket removed wastegates, and they are all close to the turbo inlet. http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83203