Alright this is a new thread because I think I need to start clean. Here's the situation:

 

My 89 GL Wagon (5MT,4wd) broke down on the way home. I have no history at all with this car. It was running fine and just stopped running on the freeway, and would crank but wouldn't start again.

 

It's at my home now, and will start but I don't trust it. It starts up and idles at about 1500 rpm. The oil pressure gauge reads on the high end, about 3/4 of the way up. CEL is not on, but I think it may be blown.

 

Where do I start? assume you're talking to someone who doesn't work on Subarus or most other engines for that matter, because you are. I saw there are codes I can check, but I'm not sure how to start that procedure - I found the code list, but not how to make the LED on the ECU blink.

 

Oh, and don't know if this helps, but I hear something cycle on and off repeatedly when the ignition is turned to ON. I'm used to hearing a fuel pump prime, but repeatedly?

If it is cold, 1500 RPM is about right, so is the high oil pressure. Does it stay at this high idle/high pressure even when it warms up?

 

Take a risk and go for a drive around the neighbourhood. Uphill, if possible! See what happens after it gets warmed up to normal operating temperature.

 

The CEL should go on when the ignition is on and the engine is not running.

The CEL is definitely not working.

 

Oh, and don't know if this helps, but I hear something cycle on and off repeatedly when the ignition is turned to ON. I'm used to hearing a fuel pump prime, but repeatedly?

 

Sounds like the diagnostic connectors are plugged in. That will cycle the fuel pump on and off. You definitely want to disconnect those for driving.... green connectors under the hood, by the wiper motor....

Oh, and don't know if this helps, but I hear something cycle on and off repeatedly when the ignition is turned to ON. I'm used to hearing a fuel pump prime, but repeatedly?

 

This means that the green test connectors are hooked toghether. Now the thing is, you should see the CEL(actually says "ECS") blink in time with the Fuel pump. But it sounds like you have a blown bulb for the CEL.

 

Best would be to replace the bulb, but actually you could read the codes without it. Since the Codes blink on the LED in the front of the ECU.

 

Open the hood, look towards the back corner of the engine bay, drviers side, behind the strut tower. You should see 2 set of connectors. One green set and one white set.

 

It sounds like the green ones are hooked toghether. Unhook them, adn make sure the white ones are unhooked as well. Now turn the key on(not started) and see if you have a ECS light. No? Well probably burnt out. But anyway now start it and see how it runs.

 

If it runs weird, and you still want to read codes, then remove the lower dash cover under the steering column. There is a box bolted to the bottom of the Column. That the ECU, and if you look at the front, in the little hole, there is a light.

 

Start teh car and watch the light. If it blinks a repeating sequecne of long and short flahes, you have a code, say 3 long, five short= code 35. If it randomly lights and then goe out, it is O2 monitoring, and there are no active codes.

 

Similarly, you can retrive past code by plugging in the white connectors, and turning the key to on. thi will blink any past codes that were set. This is helpful for finding problem that are intermittent, or connection related.

 

To clear all the codes, and start over, plug in both connectors, start teh car and run it for 40 secs or more, and then turn off car and unplug them both.

 

Clear all codes, go for a few drives, then use read again to see if any codes came back. (note* codes 11,12,13 can all set from morning start where the car doesn't start right away on the first key turn. Don't be alarmed if they come back from time to time, as long a it's running right)

 

 

Oh, change that bulb for you're ECS ASAP.

Gloyale gets a big loud bell for this one, covered it well.

 

Start teh car and watch the light.

 

for some reason, when I read this, I was reminded of a classical piece of technician humor...

 

http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm

 

EA82 parts 1 and 2, download FSM goodness if you do not already have it.

I do have those manual pieces, I'll check the car today or tomorrow.

Alright, some news on this front:

 

Car starts and runs now but seems to develop a loud ticking noise once warmed up. Clutch is reaaally slippy, but i'll save that job til I get it running right.

 

When I unplugged the diagnostic wires, and warmed up the engine, the ecu is giving me two codes - 35, and 31.

 

Also, when I take the distributor cap off, I can twist the rotor a couple degrees back and forth. Is this a big deal, or is there usually some play here? I don't have a timing light or anything so maybe that's something I should pick up.

 

Also, the timing marks on the crank are difficult to see - any tips on making them more legible?

 

Oh, and I found today that not only is the ECS light out, but also the lights for the 4wd system in the dash. I have a suspicion the mechanic shorted these or cut a wire, as they both worked when I test drove the car. Any places I should look for a blown fuse or cut wire?

 

Thanks for all the help so far.

oh, and the egine seems to have waaaayyyy too much oil in it.

Change the oil. 4.5 qt with filter change

 

Then

"Also, when I take the distributor cap off, I can twist the rotor a couple degrees back and forth. Is this a big deal, or is there usually some play here?"

No it should be tight, make sure the screw is in

and is tight.

see the screw here

 

"I don't have a timing light or anything so maybe that's something I should pick up. "

If you do, you must plug the green connectors together

to check the timing.

 

 

"Also, the timing marks on the crank are difficult to see - any tips on making them more legible?"

The timing is checked on the flywheel

There should be a black rubber cover.

 

"Oh, and I found today that not only is the ECS light out, but also the lights for the 4wd system in the dash."

You might want to make sure it's in 4wd

Move the car twenty feet or so with the button pushed.

 

The code 35 is a very coomon problem

purge solenoid, you find a lot of info on it

in these pages.

 

31 is for the TPS, that's an odd one.

Yep, I see the marks faintly, but there is no black rubber cover on the flywheel - looks like there may not have been for some time. Should I sand the flywheel to make them show up better?

 

Is the rubber boot important to have on?

 

The 4wd doesn't light up, H or L range. It does seem to engage though.

 

If I need to replace the distributor, can I do it with the engine still in the bay, or will it need to come out?

Yep, I see the marks faintly, but there is no black rubber cover on the flywheel - looks like there may not have been for some time. Should I sand the flywheel to make them show up better?

I use Scotch bright and white paint.

 

Is the rubber boot important to have on?

Many are missing, depends on the car's use.

Common sense says yes. but as I said many do not have it.

 

The 4wd doesn't light up, H or L range. It does seem to engage though.

I did not read where it had dual range sorry

I guessed it was push button because of this.

Does the dash look like it's been removed?

 

If I need to replace the distributor, can I do it with the engine still in the bay, or will it need to come out?

It can be changed with the engine in the car.

Use normal dist. change practices.

I take it your checked the screw????

Screw is there - i haven't tried tightening it because i can't get at it right now, need to go buy a 22mm wrench.

7/8" socket will work also

 

assuming you mean to turn the crank

You got it! I picked up the wrench today, figured if I didn't have it already I should. Also picked up some oil to change it. I'm thinking I'll take it into a decent shop tomorrow and see if they can make heads or tails of the situation, and take it from there.

 

I need to know if it's worth trying to salvage this car, or take my losses and run.

Download the FSM and adjust the TPS or replace it if it tests bad. Ticking is not really a worry, these cars just do that. You could try sefoam, Marvel, or ATF to free up the sticky lifters, but don't worry about iot too much.

 

Once you get rid of the TPS code, it will run better