Avk wrote:

With the control arm method, you only need to remove one, front mount bolt (17 mm head and nut), plus the sway bar link bolt. There is enough play in the other bushing for the inner joint to clear the stub shaft. The caveats are that re-tightening must be performed with wheels on the ground or at least on low ramps, .

The caveats are that re-tightening must be performed with wheels on the ground

 

Avk, could you explain in more details why one has to retighten that way?

Originally posted by frag

Avk, could you explain in more details why one has to retighten that way?

Because the manual says so! Seriously, the purpose is to have minimal stress in the bushing when the car is at the normal height. The bushing is pressed into the arm and at the axis, attached to a stationary sleeve which is tightened by the bolt to the subframe mount. If the bolt is tightened with the wheel hanging down, the bushing will twist quite a bit when the suspension is loaded, and would stay that way. On upward travel of the arm, it would twist even more. My way to tighten the bolt was to turn as much possible with wheels on the ground, then when the sleeve is already tight, drive up on the ramps and turn some more.

Thanks a lot Avk.

I'm preparing to do both front axles in less than ideal conditions and I want to put all chances on my side. Since i had problems removing the pinch bolt on the right side when replacing the ball joint (broke the bolt and had to drill it through...) I reasonnably can exclude going the «pop the ball joint» road when I'll do the left side.