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Should have quit while I was ahead. Got my other problem fixed, now this.

 

I'm doing the plugs and wires on my 99 Outback with the EJ25.

 

I got the front driver side plug done. Now I'm working on the rear driver side. Problem is, I forgot about the clearance issue and now I have the socket wrench wedged against the frame rail. I can't move it. I can't reverse it so I can run the plug back in a bit to get the socket wrench out. I need help quick! Should I disconnect the motor mounts and try to jack the motor up a bit?

 

I wonder how subie tech's get these things out. This is almost as bad as doing plugs on my 2002 Trans Am

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Yikes, that'll be some slow going especially if your tools are a quality brand. Use a good quality hacksaw blade. You'd probably have better luck with some kind of rotary cutoff. Don't suppose you have an air compressor and a die grinder? Or failing that a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.

 

So is the plug cross threaded and that's why it's not moving? If it is cross threaded, then yes cut your extension if you can instead of damaging threads. That's assuming you can't change the situation by undoing an engine mount and and jacking something up or down. But of course I'm sure you've thought of stuff like that.

 

Good Luck!

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can you get a pair of slip joint pliers on the extension and give it a turn or two?

 

Someone just posted a write up on changing plugs in your style engine,

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92477

 

Good Luck!

 

 

 

My same thought, no need to hack saw anything. Simply use a large pair of slip joint pliers, I call them channel locks. Rotate what ever sticks out, your short extension, or the sparkplug socket in a clock wise direction to screw the spark plug far enough back into the engine so that you create enough room to remove the drive handle.

 

Once you have done that, leave the socket on the old sparkplug. Use a very short extension, I used one that was barely an inch long or so. Enough of the small extension protruded, that I could get a couple of fingers on the end of the extension to unscrew the plug by hand.

 

When installing new plugs, suggest using anti-sieze on the threads. It helps lube the threads upon installation, and prevents galling should you ever replace the plugs again. Suggest hand threading when installing the new plugs. You don't want to risk cross threading with any kind of wrench action. Only when hand tighened to the max, did I use a drive handle for final tightening. Snug the plugs tight, but don't super tighten to prevent damaging the threads in the aluminum head.

 

Hope this advise helps. I have changed the plugs on my 99 Leggie OBW, to know what you are going through. It is a nasty angled job, but with patience, you will get it done.

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I did read that walk through a couple times just to make sure I got it right. I've done spark plug changes a bunch of times on other vehicles. Hell I even did all 8 on my trans-am. Anyone who's done those will know they aren't a walk in the park.

 

I just plain forgot about the clearance until my ratchet smacked the frame rail. My first thought was to simply switch the direction on the ratchet and run the plug back into the head and then take the ratchet off. Only it was just touching the frame enough that I couldn't switch it. So every time I tested to see if I got it, it's just loosened even more which pushed it into the frame even harder.

 

I got pissed and wailed on it with a hammer so now the ratchet is broke. I'll be able to turn it by hand with some vice grips now. Problem is now it's off the ramps because I had to get the garage closed. So I'll have do this from up top or try and wiggle my self in from the bottom. I was doing both plugs from the bottom since I had more room to swing the ratchet. After I get that plug back in I'll be able to drive it back up on the ramps. But at this point, It will have to wait till Saturday or later in the week. I can't touch it now. I'll probably end up setting the thing on fire. Thanks for the advice.

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