2000 OBW SOHC manual non-LTD.

 

I'm replacing the timing belt and all other necessary components including the oil pump o-ring that everyone recommends replacing.

 

How do I pull the crankshaft sprocket? Based on other threads regarding timing belt replacement I didn't think there were any special tools required for the job. You all make it sound so straight forward (which it is for the most part); until I get to the sprocket.

So is there a tool to remove the crank sprocket? I don't want to pry on it 'cause I just know with my luck I'll snap off a sensor tooth.

 

Here's the other thing. This thread is sort of a moot point because if I were to get as far as pulling the oil pump it would have HAD to happen tonight for RTV curing purposes.

There did not appear to be any leaking around the existing pump mating surface so I figured I'd be okay for a while. If the consensus on the boards is "yeah man, that o-ring HAS to be replaced!!!" it wouldn't take long for me to tear back into it later down the road.

 

So what's the trick?

And since I'm going to be putting the engine back together in the morning, am I at a serious risk by not replacing this o-ring?

The sprocket just slides off. Try wrapping the old belt around it and pulling that should get it off without damaging anything. I'd replace the O ring. I'm usually of the thought, if it works don't fix it but why do a job twice for a nickel and dime part.

A little rust on the shaft/gear will lock it up tight. Start with letting it soak with PB Blaster.

 

Yes, you do not want to pry on the teeth but you can get behind and gently pry it forward. If you get it to move even a little, that's enough to work it back and forth to let the PB Blaster break down the rust. I will slide off.

 

Some of the gears had threaded holes so you could pull them off.

 

Yes, change the o-ring and lock tight the oil pump cover screws.

Well, after reading around a bit it looks like I don't have the right sealant anyway. I have the Permatex Ultra-Grey but no anaerobic sealant. My car is down and it's a Saturday. I have to get this up and running today so there's no cure time in there.

 

I'm crossing my fingers here but hopefully I'll be alright for a while.

I wouldn't worry about the o-ring if there are no signs of leaks.

 

If you want to get teh pulley off to replace the crank seal, there is a trick for stubborn ones.

 

Buy a M8 (metric 8MM) tap, a tap handle to fit it, and some cutting oil.

 

Also buy a steering wheel puller if you don't have one.

 

The pulley has 2 small holes in it, they are the perfect size to tap with the M8 threads. I believe this is what the holes are provided for, but have never read any reference to them in any literature.

 

Anyhow, yeah, tap the holes, run in some bolts and use the steering wheel type puller.