Pineridge Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Howdy fellas. I have a soob that has some difficulty. It started running rough about (missing occasionally) while operating. I didn't think too much of it till it completely died. I started the checklist (fuel/spark) and saw that it was getting fuel. I bought a new D-cap and rotor and pulled the #1 plug wire and found serious corrosion. (A friend had helped with a tune up about 2 years ago). The plug wire going into the D-cap had not been inserted all the way. I imagine it had been arching inside the cap for that long and finally quit. When I changed out the cap and rotor it still won't start. I checked the resistance on the coil and it is good. I get a decent spark from the coil to cap wire and from cap to plug wires. Question: Is there anything else that may have fried? This is an LED style Distributor. Thanks in advance. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 (edited) I started the checklist (fuel/spark) and saw that it was getting fuel. I want to know how you "saw" it getting fuel? You have the "LED" distributor (Crank Angle Sensor), and you have a fuel injected model. (SPFI) I don't know how you "saw" the fuel? Sounds like you have spark. Was the rotor tight on the shaft, held on by small screw since it's a fuelie. My guess is fuel filter or pump or pump relay but you "saw the fuel? Edited January 20, 2009 by Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pineridge Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Sorry about the "seeing" issue. I "smelled" fresh fuel and squirted in some starter fluid. Nada. After doing some digging here I am seeing some steps to take. Fuse #5. Grounded screw on coil bracket. Spark accelerator on coil bracket. I'll check all of these and get back with an update. Thanks Skip for the quick response! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Sorry about the "seeing" issue. I "smelled" fresh fuel and squirted in some starter fluid. Nada. Okay, snow worries mate, that makes much more sense. After doing some digging here I am seeing some steps to take. Fuse #5. Grounded screw on coil bracket. If you have the good spark you said you have all these items are NA (Not Applicable) They are all needed to make a good spark. The rotor screw I mentioned can cause a no start. Connect the green connectors by the driver's side hood hinge. Turn the key to run, do not start it. Fuel pump should cycle. Use a timing light to check the ignition timing (20 deg BTDC) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pineridge Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 (edited) Crap!! Thats the last time I let a friend check things for me! I had a friend do the spark check list. I went back through the spark trail: -coil to Dcap, good spark -Dcap through plaug wire, no spark! So, after reading through another post relating to an optical sensor, I may have a bad sensor? The fuel pump does kick on when I did as you suggested Skip. I will look for one of these sensors in our junk yard. I live in a rural area so it may take a few days. BTW; the CEL blinks steadily when I turn the key on. Just found a post on reading error codes. Yeehaw!!!! Thanks PixO! Thanks again for all your help. John Edited January 21, 2009 by Pineridge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Crap!! Thats the last time I let a friend check things for me!I had a friend do the spark check list. I went back through the spark trail: -coil to Dcap, good spark -Dcap through plaug wire, no spark! John, since this is the case the optical sensor in the dist is good, if it were not you would see no spark anywhere. Sensor is large black box at the bottom side BTW; the CEL blinks steadily when I turn the key on. Just found a post on reading error codes. Yeehaw!!!! Thanks PixO! Pull down the panel that is above your knees when driving. Up next to the steer. col you will see the ECU The end of the ECU will have a small hole in it with a LED down inside. It is called the 02 monitor That is the place to read the codes. Since the CEL is flashing, turn the key to on (don't start it) and read the code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 First, verify that you're timing belt is still intact and hasn't slipped. Easy way is to remove the drivers side end cover, and the inspection cap at the rear of the block. Line up the center of the 3 TB location marks, and the dot at the top of the Cam pulley. If that is good, see below. Crap!! Thats the last time I let a friend check things for me!I had a friend do the spark check list. I went back through the spark trail: -coil to Dcap, good spark -Dcap through plaug wire, no spark! This is 99% conclusive that you have a defective or incorrect Cap and/or Rotor. If the spark is going into the disty, but not coming out, has to be one of those 2 items unless you have a broken or slipped timing belt. See above. Even with a slipped belt, the Cam and disty would have to have gotten out of time to cause this and that could only happen if the disty was removed, or it's drive gear sheared(highly unlikely) BTW; the CEL blinks steadily when I turn the key on. You're green test connectors are hooked toghether. You should hear the fuel pump running in time with the light blinking. Unplug them to take the car out of D-check or *Test* mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pineridge Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Thanks Gloyale. The timing belt is good. I can turn the fanbelt on the Alt and the rotor spins. Although it could have slipped... HMM. Hate to think of having to deal with that. Went home during lunch and checked the ECU. 5 rapid blinks, space, 5 rapid blinks, etc... I will scour the forum for this code. Looked on "Troublecodes .net" and didn't see "5" as a code, maybe "55"? Thanks again for the help. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Went home during lunch and checked the ECU. 5 rapid blinks, space, 5 rapid blinks, etc... code 5 is the model designator. Means SPFI, MT, Non California car, IIRC If it is showing you this code, then there are no active trouble codes and all is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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