I bet it just needs to be adjusted. Both of my Impreza's have needed adjusting

 

i had to adjust both of mine, too. mine just needed the bump stops at the front corners lowered.

Unfortunately I took the car for a test drive and it turned out to be a bit of a basket case. I know these motors very well, and it was making some strange noises. Groaning coming from the gearbox. Not going to bother - but will be getting some Subaru soon. I went right after to look at a 1994 Legacy GT Wagon with 140k miles, supposedly in "READY TO GO!!!!!!!!!!!" condition. I had a bad feeling about it, but figured it was worth a shot. Car was beautiful inside and out, shame the motor had a knock.

yeah just hang tight. time is your best friend here. there's plenty of good deals out there, just keep looking.

 

i picked up an amazing 97 Legacy for a friend a few months ago. $900, 100,000 miles, new clutch, great shape, no rust issues, new tires. amazing one owner vehicle.

 

the greater you can expand you range, the larger your market, the better your percentages too.

hello all,

 

I just bought a 97 Legacy L 5sp and I am trying to pin down this interference issue. ( I pick it up in a couple days, so I can't inspect the engine or date of manufacture yet.)

I was looking up timing belt kits on ebay and they all seem to make a distinction between 1990-2/97 and 3/97+

Is this an " I vs. non-I" difference? Or just a different design?

 

Thanks,

Scott

Edited February 5, 200917 yr by prodigalsoob

They made the pistons taller in the 3/'97+ Imprezas, giving them like a five percent power increase and making them an interference engine.

 

Two choices: '96 Impreza Wagon, 100,000 miles. Will need clutch within 10,000 miles "is high but not slipping", presumably will need a timing belt soon. $1000. 150 miles away.

 

'98 Impreza Sedan, 145,000 miles. Good clutch, apparently needs nothing. $2,000 or "best offer".

My apologies about the double post, but here's the scoop on the Impreza I went to look at in Concord.

 

It's got 141,000 miles and apparently no rust other than some bubbles on the driver's side rear quarterpanel where it meets the rear bumper. Pretty clean, '98 model. Has an exhaust leak. Wheel bearing howl. That I can deal with in good time if I buy it. Most important is the check engine light. It runs pretty nice overall but idles kind of rough. Seems a lot of these Imprezas have that light, where would be the first place to look to correct it? I have access to diagnostic equipment but don't want to get burned on this purchase if it's something serious. My friend's old 283,000 mile Impreza had it as well but didn't seem to cause any problems - but I care a little more about it.

check engine lights are typically no big deal 99% of the time.

 

Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone and other places read the codes free. Or buy a $30 scanner off ebay, well worth the investment. Worth it to save one trip for me.

 

Most common is cylinder misfire. Which usually means it needs new plugs and wires. They need to be OEM/Subaru, so if you see new plugs/wires and they're not NGK plugs and Subaru wires, then that's probably the problem.

 

Occassionally a cylinder misfire is the coil pack, no big deal either. Takes about 8 minutes to replace and can be had cheap.

 

The next most common code is knock sensor, buy a new one. Again easy to replace with directions here including a picture. apprx $100 part.

 

Oxygen sensors are common as well. Again, easy. apprx $100 part.

 

Any other sensor throwing a code will be fine to replace with a used unit as the failures of other sensors are rare and don't necessitate buying new.

check engine lights are typically no big deal 99% of the time.

 

Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone and other places read the codes free. Or buy a $30 scanner off ebay, well worth the investment. Worth it to save one trip for me.

 

Most common is cylinder misfire. Which usually means it needs new plugs and wires. They need to be OEM/Subaru, so if you see new plugs/wires and they're not NGK plugs and Subaru wires, then that's probably the problem.

 

Occassionally a cylinder misfire is the coil pack, no big deal either. Takes about 8 minutes to replace and can be had cheap.

 

The next most common code is knock sensor, buy a new one. Again easy to replace with directions here including a picture. apprx $100 part.

 

Oxygen sensors are common as well. Again, easy. apprx $100 part.

 

Any other sensor throwing a code will be fine to replace with a used unit as the failures of other sensors are rare and don't necessitate buying new.

 

I have access to diagnostic equipment so I can hook it up. I'm waiting to hear back from him. If he'll take $1,200 then I'll take it. It has a couple of other faults that I didn't mention such as a cracked windshield.