'96 OBW

 

So I pulled the trans out of my outback today. I was just about to mark the camber bolt when my cell rang. I got distracted by the call and when I hung up I put the wrench on the nut and before I realized my mistake I had removed the bolt without even so much as a looksie at the alignment marks.

 

My question is, Can I set it to what the driver's side is set to? Mirror image? Or am I stuck paying for an alignment?

 

Thanks!

 

Will-

Where you replacing the struts or something also?...I guess why Question is why did you have to unbolt the strut to remove the trans....when it comes to the axles i find it easiest to undo the castle nut from the ball joint and unbolt the 14mm bolt on the sway bar end link...you can knock the control arm loose and pull the axle out that way....but sorry...as to your question...Personally i would get an alignment for $70..its worth it to me to have proper tire wear....

No not replacing the struts, I read thread after thread about pulling the trans and it seemed like the majority pulled the strut bolts for easy removal of the axles.

Agree, your saving so much money doing the work yourself spend the 80 bucks on an alignment.

I'm going to have the alignment checked, but I still want to know if the setting is the same or mirror image from side to side or if they are not related.

 

thanks

 

Will-

I don't think you can make any assumptions about where it was or should be based on the position of the witness mark on the opposite side camber bolt. The adjustability of these bolts compensates for variations in manufacturing tolerances, wear, trauma, etc. Still, I think you can 'eyeball' the adjustment through trial and error by comparing the affected side to the opposite side with a plumb bob, etc.

Alright, thanks for the answer

I ussually set them with as much negative camber as possible. Makes for the best handling. It is such a small adjustment that you can't end up way out of whack, not with camber. If you had messed with the toe I would say get an alignment, but with the camber there isn't a real world *need* to have it done with frickin lasers.

 

Wears the inside edge harder than the outside which again makes for better handling becasue it leaves the outside edge tread less affected. Tread at the outside edge helps more in a corner.

 

Unless it has SUPER expensive tires, I wouldn't bother. Set it, stand in front of the car and look at the wheels. Are they Straight up and down, or slightly tipped in at the top? Even with eachother? If so you're good to go.

OK, total camber dunce here, negative camber would be bottom out top in?

 

I have this magnetic angle gauge here, I was going place it on the known side, then set the other side to match.

 

I never spend anymore on tires then I have to, really isn't any need since this thing spends 99% of it's time driving up and down the highway.

 

Thanks!

 

Will-

OK, total camber dunce here, negative camber would be bottom out top in?

 

 

Correct

Just look at the spindle and you will see the rust marks where the strut was. Line it back up and you are good to go.

Yeah, I was thinking about the "sun burn" method too,

 

Thanks!

 

Will-