The anti-diesel do-hickey has 2 wires coming off of it. All the ones I have ever seen have only 1 wire. The 2nd wire had an end on it that goes under a screw. I left it alone and the car ran kinda rough. So by chance, I grounded that wire....smoothed out perfectly. Whats that all about?

 

Also, the blue wire that goes to the choke, is that supposed to have juice to it when the car is running? It does not at this time. There is no choke on the car at this time so I cant tell you if the choke works or not.

if you don't have a wiring diagram(which i don't either) whenever I'm trying to solve mystery wires before I start pluging them in to where i think they should go(grounding, connecting, ect) I run an inline fuse in the mystery wire before i connect it to anything.

That was the only wire that I was unsure of. Seeing the end it had, I was pretty sure it was a ground. Just was wondering why there were 2 wires instead of the normal 1.

That was the only wire that I was unsure of. Seeing the end it had, I was pretty sure it was a ground. Just was wondering why there were 2 wires instead of the normal 1.

 

Some of them ground internally through the mounting, other have that wire to ensure a solid ground.

 

The blue wire is for the choke, and should have 12v all the time to heat the choke spring. if hte choke is gone, someone may have disconnected that wire.

 

the third wire on the carb is for the bowl vent solenoid. Also should have voltage when running. If that fails, it will blow the fuse for all 3, and all the gauges will drop to zero. You can run with it disconnected, but your milage will SUCK.

Some of them ground internally through the mounting, other have that wire to ensure a solid ground.

 

The blue wire is for the choke, and should have 12v all the time to heat the choke spring. if hte choke is gone, someone may have disconnected that wire.

 

the third wire on the carb is for the bowl vent solenoid. Also should have voltage when running. If that fails, it will blow the fuse for all 3, and all the gauges will drop to zero. You can run with it disconnected, but your milage will SUCK.

 

The only thing I notice is there is no juice to the choke wire. It is plugged into the 3 prong back on drivers side of carb. Gauges all work, etc.

I tapped the choke wire into the fuel vent solenoid wire. Now it has juice when key is on and I have a choke. Is this acceptable?? And the choke housing is supposed to get hot, correct?

Edited March 28, 200917 yr by opus