Hey guys. A little background:

 

I recently pulled my motor for a bunch of high-mileage maintenance (instigated by a leaky headgasket) and while it was out I put on an ACT flywheel, pressure plate, and street disc. I also installed new OEM throwout and pilot bearings. I did not mess with the clutch hydraulics at all and everything worked fine before the enigine pull, sans a slipping OEM clutch. My car is a 2001 2.5 rs with 120,000+ miles.

 

My problem is now I cannot shift into first. I can grind it into any other forward drive gear and reverse but even they are pretty hairy. I moved the car back and forth a few feet in the garage to test and engagement in second and reverse feel completely normal once I have it in gear. I haven't gotten a chance to see how it behaves on the road yet as I'm still flushing the coolant and doing other post engine install things...

 

Please tell me this is something I can adjust so I don't have to pull the motor again! I'm going to be extremely upset with myself if I messed something up on the clutch install. Thanks!

Two things I would suspect. First, are you sure you got the correct clutch/pressure plate for your vehicle? Did you resurface or do anything with the flywheel?

 

Second thing, would be that it didn't get installed correctly. The chances are pretty slim that the hydraulics are bad since they worked before you swapped in the new clutch. Are you sure you have the clutch fork installed correctly?

There should be an adjustment on the master cylinder push rod. New clutches always need a higher pedal height until they're broken in because they engage sooner. If you back the pedal up some it should fix it.

Two things I would suspect. First, are you sure you got the correct clutch/pressure plate for your vehicle? Did you resurface or do anything with the flywheel?

 

Second thing, would be that it didn't get installed correctly. The chances are pretty slim that the hydraulics are bad since they worked before you swapped in the new clutch. Are you sure you have the clutch fork installed correctly?

 

I'm as sure as I can be. Ordered the parts from Oakos for my car. I admit I didn't bounce part numbers or anything when I took the parts out of the box. I assumed they were right... I'll definately pull the clutch fork seal thingy off when I get home and take a look down there to see if anything looks messed up. It was getting too late last night to do any real troubleshooting.

 

There should be an adjustment on the master cylinder push rod. New clutches always need a higher pedal height until they're broken in because they engage sooner. If you back the pedal up some it should fix it.

 

Ok I'll try that after checking my install. I have a sneaky suspicion it's something like this though. It's just disconcerting how right and awesome the clutch engagement feels once it's in gear so I really don't believe I biffed the install. <--- Famous last words eh?

Edited July 30, 200916 yr by jermany755

That's the point of a hydraulic clutch. You shouldn't need to adjust anything, they should be self-adjusting. The only exception I can see to this is if the ACT clutch/pp engagement points are not at the same spot that the stock subaru clutch/pp was.

easy mistake:

 

"I put on an ACT flywheel, pressure plate, and street disc".

 

 

easy fix

Put on a stock clutch, stock flywheel, and stock pressure plate.

That's the point of a hydraulic clutch. You shouldn't need to adjust anything, they should be self-adjusting. The only exception I can see to this is if the ACT clutch/pp engagement points are not at the same spot that the stock subaru clutch/pp was.

 

I've replaced clutches in several cars with hydraulic release systems and have had to adjust the pedal on nearly every one of them. The system adjusts to normal clutch wear over a long period of time, just like the brake system does. When you put a brand new clutch in the engagement point of the new clutch is going to be sooner (closer to the floor) until it gets broken in, because of the pad construction. Just like with brand new brakes, they can be touchy when they're first installed for the first 15 or 20 miles of driving. Once they're broken in they feel the same as always. As the clutch is broken in you will feel the engagement point move up in the pedal. Once its broken in fully you set the pedal height to where you feel the most comfortable. (I should say engagement height, because that's what you're really adjusting.) You will notice a difference in the way the pedal feels within the first few days of driving. Give it about 500 miles to fully break in before you start driving it like you stole it.

@ bheinen: Thank you for your extremely helpful input.

 

@ Fairtax4me: I'll try that tonight and post up my results tomorrow.

You need to adjust the clutch pushrod inside the car under the dash. This will solve your problem. I have to adjust it often when putting in a new clutch or it won't engage first well.

Tried the rod adjustment and no joy. I also watched this video on how to properly install a clutch. At 2:10 it shows how to put in the throwout bearing and I know I did it wrong. Backwards, in fact. *Sigh* I hope it's not effed. I'm off to pull the engine forward...

Oops nevermind. That video was of a turbo tranny. Turns out my install is right. I'm out of ideas.

 

edit: Also I found that my car does roll on flat ground when in gear with the clutch pedal depressed. So I'm definitely not getting full disengagement.

 

edit #2: Fairtax I get what you're saying about breaking the clutch in and earlier engagement and all that, but I can barely get shifted into ANY gear. It's not manageable until it gets broken in and I think something is wrong. BTW just to be clear I should be turning that rod clockwise so that it pushes the rod-end towards the rear of the car correct? I tried both ways and didn't have much luck with either.

Edited July 31, 200916 yr by jermany755

When you depress the clutch, how far does the clutch slave cylinder pressing on the clutch fork move?

It should be adjusted so that it moves the pedal away from the firewall. I think you want to go counter clock-wise.

 

What you're trying to achieve is more pedal travel. Usually with this type of problem it's because the pedal hits the floor before the clutch is full disengaged. You move the pedal up it lets the push rod in the master cylinder move further which in turn pushes the push rod on the slave cylinder further.

 

It could be possible that you have some air in the line. Did you bleed the system after you installed the clutch? If not then maybe give that a try. You shouldn't need to, but it never hurts to get new fluid.