Windshield replacement

[Guest ForesterX]

I took a really large rock hit last week, getting the windshield replaced this week. Anything I should watch for to ensure a good replacement?

 

Thanks!

[Guest Sydfloyd44]

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Where abouts are you?

Have you chosen an auto glass company yet and if so, who is it?

 

Unfortunately, there are some hacks out there. If the replacement is not done properly, you can end up with SERIOUS rust problems, leaks and a VERY unsafe installation!

 

Take a very close look at the body of your vehicle around the windshield. It is possible that it could get scratched during the installation. If you have a good technician, no worries! If you have a hack, he probably won't care if he scratches your car. Make specific note of any damage before taking it. My company does full pre-inspections of the vehicle before any work is started. If there is any damage, it is noted. If we damage the car, WE PAY TO FIX IT!! Not worth the fight or having a pissed off customer. Just think ahead and protect yourself! This is VERY rare so don't expect it!

 

What type of urethane do they use and what is the "Safe Drive Away Time". If they cannot give you the answer to this or do not know what you are talking about, I would NOT use that company!! Based on the current temp and humidity here in PA, (2 elements that cause the urethane to cure), we can SAFELY release a customers car 2 hours after the glass has been set into the vehicle. We use some of the fastest curing urethane available. Many companies use the cheapest urethane available which in turn means that they have the longest cure times, some as long as 24 hours. What does this mean to you? If you get in accident within these 24 hours, you and your occupants might very well die since your passenger side airbag will fail and your windshield will probably go flying about 50 feet in the air when the pass airbag deploys. Good news would be that IF you live, you could sue for several million dollars and they probably wouldn't contest it. (4 of these suits last year that I am aware of)

 

I am assuming you have a Forester by your screenname. They are a fairly straight forward replacement. (did 3 of them last week) The A pillar moldings come off very easy by carefully prying up and then sliding them out from under the front edge of the roof racks. The top molding should be replaced with the windshield. Depending on the year and options, your windshield might be heated (in the wiper park area). MAKE SURE THAT IF IT IS HEATED NOW, THEY PUT A HEATED WINDSHIELD BACK IN!!!!!!!!!!!!! A company can increase their profit by billing your insurance for the heated windshield and then putting in the non-heated!

 

Sorry for the long post! Let me know what company you have chosen and I will check on their industry certification.

We are NOT affiliated with this company but this guys site has some excellent information on windshield replacement. Take note at the bottom where he talks about Sika Adhesives. These are the same adhesives that I use!

www.brads.com/installation.htm

[Guest gbhrps]

I don't need a windshield, and I don't live in PA, but if I did you'd be the guy doing my replacement! Thanks a lot! You made all of us a great deal more informed. Great answer.

[Guest hocrest]

I do live in PA and may need a windshield before to long. Where are you in the state?

[dgkx2]

We just had the windshield replaced on our 2003 Forester, and now can hear strange low pitched whistling noises coming from the bottom left corner of the windshield when driving in the wind. We don't hear the sound, even when driving at 65mph on the freeway...only when the wind is blowing AND we're driving at higher speeds.

Called the shop that did the work and they told us it was 'normal' on Subarus...something to do with the way the molding fits on the outside of the windshield. Never heard anything like this before the windshield was replaced, no matter how hard the wind was blowing outside or how fast the car was moving. Ever heard of this problem before?

Thanks!

 

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Where abouts are you?

Have you chosen an auto glass company yet and if so, who is it?

 

Unfortunately, there are some hacks out there. If the replacement is not done properly, you can end up with SERIOUS rust problems, leaks and a VERY unsafe installation!

 

Take a very close look at the body of your vehicle around the windshield. It is possible that it could get scratched during the installation. If you have a good technician, no worries! If you have a hack, he probably won't care if he scratches your car. Make specific note of any damage before taking it. My company does full pre-inspections of the vehicle before any work is started. If there is any damage, it is noted. If we damage the car, WE PAY TO FIX IT!! Not worth the fight or having a pissed off customer. Just think ahead and protect yourself! This is VERY rare so don't expect it!

 

What type of urethane do they use and what is the "Safe Drive Away Time". If they cannot give you the answer to this or do not know what you are talking about, I would NOT use that company!! Based on the current temp and humidity here in PA, (2 elements that cause the urethane to cure), we can SAFELY release a customers car 2 hours after the glass has been set into the vehicle. We use some of the fastest curing urethane available. Many companies use the cheapest urethane available which in turn means that they have the longest cure times, some as long as 24 hours. What does this mean to you? If you get in accident within these 24 hours, you and your occupants might very well die since your passenger side airbag will fail and your windshield will probably go flying about 50 feet in the air when the pass airbag deploys. Good news would be that IF you live, you could sue for several million dollars and they probably wouldn't contest it. (4 of these suits last year that I am aware of)

 

I am assuming you have a Forester by your screenname. They are a fairly straight forward replacement. (did 3 of them last week) The A pillar moldings come off very easy by carefully prying up and then sliding them out from under the front edge of the roof racks. The top molding should be replaced with the windshield. Depending on the year and options, your windshield might be heated (in the wiper park area). MAKE SURE THAT IF IT IS HEATED NOW, THEY PUT A HEATED WINDSHIELD BACK IN!!!!!!!!!!!!! A company can increase their profit by billing your insurance for the heated windshield and then putting in the non-heated!

 

Sorry for the long post! Let me know what company you have chosen and I will check on their industry certification.

We are NOT affiliated with this company but this guys site has some excellent information on windshield replacement. Take note at the bottom where he talks about Sika Adhesives. These are the same adhesives that I use!

www.brads.com/installation.htm

[Sydfloyd44]

It is probably your top molding. If they told you this is "normal" for Subarus, they obviously are not concerned. Here is what you do: Looking at the windshield from the outside you will see the moldings that run up the A pillars along the glass and join up with the roof rack by tucking under them. These are reused after the windshield is replaced. Not a likely candidate for noise. Depending on what they used for the top molding, that is where you want to concentrate. Once you know the conditions that the noise occurs, take some masking tape and tape off the drivers half of the top molding, then driving and listening for the noise. Once it stops, you have your answer. If you do the whole top molding and it is continuing, start down the sides. If it is the top, it is no problem for the to fix. This can happen to the best of installers. All they need to do is backfill a 'small' amount of urethane under the top molding to stabilize it. If it is the sides, (again, not likely) they may not be set in tight. The A pillar moldings have clips on their underside. Then there are small posts that protrude from the wall of the pinchweld. The clips just slide onto the posts, then the bottom of the clips lightly tuck under the edge of the windshield.

Concentrate on the top!!! I just re-read your post and I lean further to the top because you say "when the wind is blowing". A cross wind is probably what gets the edge of the molding to start lifting off the body and then it just starts vibrating.

Let me know how you make out with both the molding and the glass shop.

One last thing. THIS IS **NOT** NORMAL FOR ANY CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the glass shop would just do what I recommended that you do, they would figure this out without a problem.

 

 

We just had the windshield replaced on our 2003 Forester, and now can hear strange low pitched whistling noises coming from the bottom left corner of the windshield when driving in the wind. We don't hear the sound, even when driving at 65mph on the freeway...only when the wind is blowing AND we're driving at higher speeds.

Called the shop that did the work and they told us it was 'normal' on Subarus...something to do with the way the molding fits on the outside of the windshield. Never heard anything like this before the windshield was replaced, no matter how hard the wind was blowing outside or how fast the car was moving. Ever heard of this problem before?

Thanks!

[dgkx2]

Thanks so much for the info!

 

 

 

It is probably your top molding. If they told you this is "normal" for Subarus, they obviously are not concerned. Here is what you do: Looking at the windshield from the outside you will see the moldings that run up the A pillars along the glass and join up with the roof rack by tucking under them. These are reused after the windshield is replaced. Not a likely candidate for noise. Depending on what they used for the top molding, that is where you want to concentrate. Once you know the conditions that the noise occurs, take some masking tape and tape off the drivers half of the top molding, then driving and listening for the noise. Once it stops, you have your answer. If you do the whole top molding and it is continuing, start down the sides. If it is the top, it is no problem for the to fix. This can happen to the best of installers. All they need to do is backfill a 'small' amount of urethane under the top molding to stabilize it. If it is the sides, (again, not likely) they may not be set in tight. The A pillar moldings have clips on their underside. Then there are small posts that protrude from the wall of the pinchweld. The clips just slide onto the posts, then the bottom of the clips lightly tuck under the edge of the windshield.

Concentrate on the top!!! I just re-read your post and I lean further to the top because you say "when the wind is blowing". A cross wind is probably what gets the edge of the molding to start lifting off the body and then it just starts vibrating.

Let me know how you make out with both the molding and the glass shop.

One last thing. THIS IS **NOT** NORMAL FOR ANY CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the glass shop would just do what I recommended that you do, they would figure this out without a problem.

[jib]

If the replacement is not done properly, you can end up with SERIOUS rust problems,

 

Been there, done that, with a Saab. It went on for over 7 years without being noticed, until the windshield was replaced again. The tech called me out to see the damage. Since it was already a 12 year old car, we elected to incapsulate the entire rusty area in urethane and call it a day, but what a mess.

 

Be careful of who replaces your glass.

 

Jack

[swi66]

Most insurance companies will want to send "their" people to replace your windshield either at your home or where you work for your convenience.

 

I generally avoid the insurance companies choice.

 

The insurance company will then try and tell you they cannot "guarantee" the work of your chosen shop. But they will not provide you with a written guarantee of their technicians work either.

 

Insurance companies contract with low bidders for windshield replacement and you will not very likely get the best most experienced people.

 

Last windshield I had replaced my insurance company, Progressive, gave me a fairly hard time, and wanted their guy to do it out doors where I worked. It was winter time, about 10 degrees out, with a possibility of snow. Not the best conditions in my opinion to seal a windshield.

 

My guy did it in his shop, vacuumed the car, cleaned the car and dash, and transferred both stickers off the old windshield onto the new one.

He has a very good reputation, and it is well earned.

 

I was happy with his work.

 

swi66

[Sydfloyd44]

Yes, I know too well what you are talking about. Virtually all insurance companies now use what are known as "Glass Networks". They handle all of the billing, paperwork and phone calls for auto glass claims for the insurance companies. Here is what happen to you. When you call Progressive to place the claim, you might think you are talking to Progressive Glass Claims, but you are actually talking to the SGC Network who handles the claims for Progressive. Guess what SGC is short for? Safelite Glass Corporation. The network is one of their 3 divisions. (network, glass manufacturing and then the installation shops) What they then do is called "Steering" which is illegal in most states. They "back door" you into one of the Safelite shops or have them come mobile to you. If you tell them you do not want them to do the work, they then tell you lies about no warranties or that you will have to pay any additional costs over what they will normally pay. (not that safelite stands behind their warranty anyway!) For one thing, any reputable auto glass company has a lifetime warranty on the replacement. 2nd, most auto glass companies will just accept what they are willing to pay especially since they are ALREADY CONTRACTED WITH SGC NETWORK!!! The pricing is already set and the amount of the job cannot be changed. This is a MAJOR problem in our industry. As a matter of fact, Diamond/Triumph just launched a multi-million dollar suit against Safelite for these practices.

 

Long story short.... IF YOU KNOW WHO YOU WANT TO DO THE WORK, CONTACT THEM AND ONLY THEM FIRST!!!! LET THE AUTO GLASS COMPANY HANDLE THE CLAIM WORK WITH THE INSURANCE COMPANY! THIS IS THE KEY! They will not attempt to steer you if we are on the phone. Now, what they might do is to send a Safelite truck to your house before your requested shop does the work. Just tell them to get lost!

 

P.S. 10 degrees in the winter is a NO NO!!! Urethanes will not cure and your car is NOT safe to drive!!! Any moisture can also cause catastrophic failure!