justaquestion Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 Sorry for the weber questions but I couldn't find the answers by just searching. I don't know too much about carbs. the only carb stuff I have done was just a regular rebuild and reinstall. so I just hooked up everything exactly how it was before(easy enough to label hoses). But I am putting a rebuilt weber in an EA81 that had a hitachi, so i'm rerouting the hoses right now and I'm not sure what I can get rid of. I want to cap off everything I don't need and just get it out of there. do I need to reconnect the egr hose? how about the idle cut off solinoid?- the old one doesn't fit on the weber which of vacuum hoses can I get rid of? like the ones on the air control vacuum valve. sorry for the long question, I'm just a bit lost with where to rout some of these hoses, and everybody on this site has helped me out a bunch in the past, so thanks in advance for any insight you all might have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justaquestion Posted February 22, 2010 Author Share Posted February 22, 2010 also does anybody know what this is? one of the ports is broken off. hoses from the bowl vent and the air control vacuum valve were heading into it and one was coming out of it heading to the anti afterburning valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 There are only two ports on the weber on the front. One probably has a screw in it so you can choose to use it or not. That one is for the EGR. You can put a block off plate on the EGR and run it without but i would recommend you keep it. It helps against detonation by lowering cylinder temps. You wont notice any power difference taking it out so i would hook it back up. The other port on the front (bigger one) is for the vacuum advance off the distributor. As for your broken valve..that has to do with the hitachi. Subaru had a complicated system of temperature activated valves to open up vacuum to certain areas and that was one of them. You dont need it with the weber so yank away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justaquestion Posted February 22, 2010 Author Share Posted February 22, 2010 yeah thats what i discovered. thanks a bunch. I definitely have the vacuum advance done first. that is just like the old one. I still have the EGR valve in place but it is gonna be a pain to plug it into the front of the carb because: see attached photo- the rubber cap going strait up and almost touching the bottom adapter plate of the carb is the metal hose going to the EGR valve. I might just have to cut the metal pipe down a bit. Also I yanked out the anti afterburn valve and the air control valves. I just caped the hoses leading to them right at the manifold. it was a big spaggetti bowl of hoses that are gone now. that all seems fine, I just hope there isn't some reason I need those that i can't think of. I capped the vent hose going to the cannister also just cause there is no port on the carb where it is supposed to connect to. there is just a hole there. Also how is important is the idle cut off solinoid? my old one doesn't fit into the port that the weber has. do I need to get a new one or can I just leave it. if any of you guys see somethine that doesn't sound right that i've done or have any other thoughts on this I would love to hear it. thanks a bunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Don't mess with hooking up the hard-lines from the EGR/Advance to the carb - just run new vacuum hose from the carb to the devices you want to run. You don't need the idle-cut solenoid. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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