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ej22 runs but shuts off in 4 seconds


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21 replies to this topic

#1 subaranx

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 10:31 AM

Help ! sounds ok but shuts off---I'm new to the subaru and don't know much about them yet

#2 obk25xt

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 08:26 PM

IAC valve correctly hooked up?!

#3 subaranx

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 10:16 AM

I don't yet know what IAC valve is yet -- I'm a VW guy over 25 years now and this is my first experiance with a subaroo . . . sooo, I need all the help I can get. I do know that everything is hooked up as it was from the donor car and my buddy has sucsessfully done 4 transplants from vw to subaru---this is the first one that did not follow the pattern.

I appriciate the reply and look forward to any info you suby guys can throw at me

Pete

#4 Numbchux

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 10:41 AM

IAC is the Idle Air Control Valve.


Some more information, please. What year/model was the donor? Did the ECU/harness/engine all come from the same car? Was it a running car before you pulled it apart? Does it change if you touch the throttle?

Help us help you.



Shooting in the dark, though. If something in the intake isn't hooked up right, this kind of thing will happen. You'll get a bunch of un-metered air coming in the engine, and the ECU won't be able to correctly match the fuel, and the engine will stall.

Here's an '86 wagon with a '96 impreza 2.2. The first startup in the video (the one with no exhaust) was without the IAC hooked up. You can hear the engine cutout when I touch the throttle, and then it dies.


#5 subaranx

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 11:02 AM

Hi numbchux and thanx for the reply--Ifound the term rite b4 you posted reply but notsure what is is--I think its is the valve ith the 3/4 inch vac hose from intake going kinda under the throttle body ? and its hooked up --I even blew out the port where the hose hooks up with air pressure because it was open for a month or so before I installed engine on the vw trans--(to make sure there was no bug nests or dust)

and -- its a ej22 from a 91 legacy wagon , other than a miss on #2 cylinder it was running and driving just fine when I pulled the engine and harness--the only thing I missed was the MAF sensor whith I found at junkyard, - Ichecked part number and it is the correct one for this motor

also , It does rev ok if I hit throttle b4 it shuts off but time frame is the same --runs almost exacly four seconds then dies like turning key off.

#6 subaranx

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 11:05 AM

forgot to mentoin that I've checked fire at the plugs and injector pulse (exept for pulse duration) and is pulsing and firing even as it dies

#7 subaranx

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 11:40 AM

Hello again ! from the replies and reading the thread from the 95 legacy with similer problem . . .I am thinking this must be or related to the IAC so am tracing the wires from IAC to ECU to check for continuity and to make sure the wires are connected properly

again - thanx to you guys helping me with this --- hope I can pay it forward soon ! !

#8 subaranx

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 11:43 AM

I have a freind with a OBD1 scanner tool --- would that be any help or not since it won't stay running ?

#9 subaranx

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 02:06 PM

OK -- I checked continuity from IAC to ECU - all good and pulled the IAC off and made sure it was clean inside-(no dead bugs) ---no changes

will try the OBD1 scanner next . . .

If I had hair on my head I'd be pulling it out now:eek:

#10 tractor pole

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 02:24 PM

just a shot in the dark...
is the fuel pump staying on after start?
is fuel pressure staying constant?

#11 subaranx

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 03:33 PM

thanx tractor pole I put in a inline fuel p gauge and seems good -- line pressure stays at 50 - (a cheap gauge but funcional) does not flucuate while it is running and dying,
also disconnected the IAC wires and tried it, ran for a second then started running badly, then shut off after 4 seconds so the IAC is doing something altho I can't verify its doing the rite thing ?

#12 eulogious

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 06:49 AM

Your OBD1 reader won't do any good... Unless its the Subaru Select Monitor. That's the only OBD1 tool that will read subaru codes.

#13 Legacy777

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 11:59 AM

If you disconnect the IAC valve electrical connector from the IAC valve and start the engine, it should have a high idle. If you've done this and the engine still shuts off after 4 seconds, then the problem is not with the IAC valve.

After testing the above, what I'd suggest is disconnecting the electrical connector from the MAF sensor and start the engine. If it starts, it will likely idle very rough, but if it idles past 4 seconds, then you've narrowed down your problem to the MAF sensor or wiring.

When you wired in the ej22 did you wire in the check engine light pin at the ECU to a light bulb? If not, I'd suggest doing that so you can check the ECU for codes. This may help and save you a bit of time.

Also, was the 91 Legacy that you took the motor from an automatic or manual transmission equipped car? What color is the MAF sensor, silver aluminum or black plastic?

#14 subaranx

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 03:29 PM

thanx for reply, legacy, I'll start at the top--I disconnected the IAC plug and it started ran for about a second then ran badly for the other 3 or 4 seconds and died --

and the MAF when unplugged has no effect at all---its the plastic body kind
I checked the part # at the subaru parts counter and they said it matches the 2.2 from '89 to '99,

the 91 legacy (donor car) was an auto trans but it had a button to change to manual shift--? dont know if that makes any sense to you but I'm a nooby to the suby--my first one
also . . . this transplant is on a off road - homebuilt buggy so a lot of the excess wiring was deleted -- guages, windsheild wipers , electric windows, transmission wires, ect.
A good freind of mine, aka gadget, did the wiring for me and this is the fourth 2.2 single cam engine he's wired with no prior problems (plus a 2.5 and two 1.8 engines)--not saying he's got this one rite but seems to know how to make them work.

however . . . considering all the things i'vechecked and tried and the info I've got from the replys on the thread, I'm thinking it may be something in the wiring

again -- thanx and have great day ---

#15 Legacy777

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 11:56 AM

Based on what you described, it sounds like there is an issue with the wiring or some other feedback sensor/device to the ECU. It sounds like you've verified all the main sensors that would keep the engine from running. By any chance have you tried a different ECU?

You really need to see what the ECU is seeing. I think that would probably help a lot to troubleshoot this problem. I know you mentioned a friend of yours wired this for you, so I'm not sure what all may still be there from the stock wiring.

As mentioned above the check engine light will blink with any codes that may be stored or active in the ECU. If the check engine light is not hooked up, it shouldn't be very difficult to wire a general automotive type light to the correct pin on the ECU. You'd want to wire an ignition switched 12v to the light, and then run the other lead to the correct pin on the ECU, connector F47 pin 19. In addition to the CEL, you would need to wire up the read & diagnostic memory pins. All you would need to do is wire each appropriate pin on the ECU to ground to put the ECU in the corresponding diagnostic mode. Some people will wire a simple toggle switch in line so they can flip a switch and check the ECU for codes.

I know this may sound difficult, but if your friend that wired things can help, it should be pretty straight forward. Below are links for the ECU I-O and the wiring diagrams from the 90 Legacy service manual. The 91 wiring will be pretty much the same.

http://www.main.expe...U_I-O_page1.jpg
http://www.main.expe...U_I-O_page2.jpg
http://www.main.expe...U_I-O_page3.jpg

http://www.main.expe...ng_Diagrams.zip


Also, if you wanted to get real fancy, you can make a connector that would hook into the factory diagnostic connector and display the ECU run time values. This may be more than what you need, but it is an option.

http://www.surrealmi...m/vrg3/b10scan/


The last thing I would suggest is testing continuity in each wire from all the various sensors to the ECU. That way you can verify that all the wiring is good.

#16 Gloyale

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 12:36 PM

I am thinking the power from the yellow wire on the Alt to the ECU is not correctly wired.

#17 subaranx

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 11:55 AM

yeehah-! ! ! I finally figgered it out ! Spent all day staring at the wiring diagram and chasing each wire down and labeling them till I found the hot wire from Ignition to to ECU ---He missed that one --never got connected to the ign circuit. Hooked it up and it started up and stayed running YAAAAA
sounds ten times better than those stupid VW's:banana:
been waiting long time to put that dancing banana on this thread!!

so now its game on ---time to finish the wiring and shorten the pan and exhuast headers for ground clearance so I can drive it!!! :banana:

Thank you Thank you and Thank you again to all of you guys for the help on this------all the input and advice was more than I hoped for when I started the thread ---now I know so much more about the subaru than when I started ---awsome---I think I could do it again without help :)

Thanx again to every one--I will delete the thread in a week or so but will keep the USMB on my list of favorites --soopercool website!!

#18 eulogious

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 01:26 PM

Delete the thread? Why do that? That is NOT common practice around here. Please don't delete it. It's good to have the reference when someone else searches for the same sota situation.

Glad you got it running! :)

#19 SubaruLT

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 01:18 PM

yeehah-! ! ! I finally figgered it out ! Spent all day staring at the wiring diagram and chasing each wire down and labeling them till I found the hot wire from Ignition to to ECU ---He missed that one --never got connected to the ign circuit. Hooked it up and it started up and stayed running YAAAAA


I have the same problem, can u tell which wire was not connected?

#20 subaranx

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 11:06 AM

. . .Hey everyone --
subaruLT--the wire from the ECU is on teminal block B58, pin 12 - it goes from ECU directly to the IGN switch before the main relay (to key on) Hope that helps you out.

also, A reply to eulogious--- I will NOT delete the thread on this , I'm kinda new on the forum thing and did not know---was just thinking it would be clutter but I see what you are saying, -- Thanx for the tip :)

and to Zefy, -- did the euphorical sledge hammer do any good? I was hoping you'd get it figgered out so we could have more input on the wiring or whatever :rolleyes:

I did a few experiments with the intake plumbing to possibly eliminate the ugly stock breather tube and found that the ECU does NOT like hope and change (Obamanation)--got the same result as the wire being unconnected-- ECU shut it down in 5 seconds. SOOO . . . Next project will be a 2.5 no turbo which will eliminate the MAFS and thus lighten up the wiring system a bit more (and eliminate the intake tube)- not to mention adding more ponys.

Have to go to work now, gotta finish the fab work on the car so I can take it to the dunes!!! (maybe put some brake s on the car--that would be a good thing)
So have a good day to all and happy motoring--Or duning!

#21 subaranx

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 11:09 AM

One more thing---Every time I post a reply I have to log on again .
Is that common or is my computor malmalmalfuncioning?

#22 SubaruLT

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Posted 01 October 2011 - 05:33 AM

i check the wire. NOT CONNECTED!! I hope its work when i connect it:banana:.
Thanks for information.




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