rxleone Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 1989 Legacy, EJ22, 5 speed manual. 278,000km (172,000mi). I believe I've got a leaking front crank seal on my motor. I've done timing belts and stuff before, but I've never had the crank gear or oil pump off. Do I need a gear puller for the crankshaft sprocket and crankshaft position sensor? Also with the oil pump, should I reseal this? I've heard a bit about an o-ring and tightening the screws on the back of the pump, is there much involved with this or is it a fairly basic procedure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Whale Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 (edited) You shouldn't need a tool to remove the sprocket, under normal circumstances. It just slides off of the shaft after the pulley is off. Definitely reseal the oil pump (and make sure those screws are tight, and replace that O-ring); it's not hard to do. I've used Permatex Ultra Grey, but some prefer to use an anaerobic sealant. As long as you're doing that, you should do the camshaft seals too; they're likely to start leaking around the same time as the one on the crankshaft. Edited February 12, 2013 by Blue Whale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 You can't use a gear puller - if it won't come off then you have to tap the holes provided in the sprocket to 8mm x 1.25 and use a dampener puller. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Thanks for that. In regards to the sealant for the oil pump, I've heard people say you should use anaerobic sealant, Threebond, etc, but I've also heard people say you can use Permatex Ultra Grey. I've looked that stuff up and it looks like it is RTV, which I've heard is a serious no-go on the oil pump. Can anyone clarify this for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 use the ultra grey by itself or the paper gasket that may be supplied with a seal kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Three Bond is a brand name - like Loctite and Permatex. They make a whole line of sealant products and you can't refer to "Three Bond" without talking about the sealant number. Same goes for Loctite, Permatex, etc. Japanese companies tend to use Three Bond products because they are a Japanese product. When I worked with Kobelco it was the same way - we used Three Bond products. They just didn't rename it "Fuji Bond" or "Honda Bond" like the car makers do. Personally I use Loctite 518. I rarely use any RTV products except for things like GM V6/V8 intake manifolds, exhaust gaskets, etc where the imperfections in the surface are very coarse or the gap is very large. The oil pump is a machined flange and has very tight tolerances - a thin smear of 518 is all you need. That is exactly the application it was made for. RTV is messy and goes bad in the tube just laying around. Anaerobic's have an infinite shelf life and are less messy. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swansorl Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 (edited) additional thoughts. 1. I pull the radiator to get room, put cardboard or 1/4 plywood panel to protect the A/C condensor and your hands from scraps 2. to get the crankshaft pulley off (there is no rooom for a impact wrench) you have two choices. a. lock the brake, put in fifth gear, and use breaker bar on socket. this often just tensions the entire drive chain with little results (other than slipping and breaking skin) b. Disconnect the low lension input to the spark [plug coil, this is to prevent the engine from starting, when you blip the starter, after mounting the breaker bar. the breaker bar should be horizontal, the handle resting on a 4x4 or jack stand, with the handle pointed to the drivers fender. be sure the socket/breaker bar is well seated on the crankshaft bolt. When this is assembled, then a quick. less than one second blip as if attmpting to start, will losen the bolt. This is using the start as the impaact wrench. DO NOT pry on the tabs of the sproket to remove it. or the Flanges. THEY WILL Break. I have had success in removal by gently wiggling at with fingers at 180 degrees on the flange. otherwise follow the advise on tapping and removal in the other post Edited February 13, 2013 by swansorl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Crank pulley bolt is easily removed with a 1/2" ratchet and a 4lb drilling hammer. Hysteresis is your friend. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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