I managed to swap an accelerator pump boot from a late model carb that had been sitting at my storage for some reason ..... the last gen of carbs for US Subies. Anyhow the boot was dried and hard but functional and better than the new one I just installed in the late fall of last year. Check your kits and verify your "new" boot isn't weak and flimsy and after install check it frequently for wear.
I'd also like to remind folks to check the pivot of that accelrator pump lever. The lock washer goes to the carb side and the rind washer to the outside. Careful of your spring tail which rests a little too close to the boot for comfort. If the lever has play it sure looks like the tail of the spring will rip the boot. I could be wrong but its so close its worth consideration.
Took me just a few minutes really. Was a little sloppy and just went at it allowing gas from the float chamber to slop a little but all in all no big worries and I let the excess fuel evaporate before cranking over. Also had the battery ground off. I'd say that's a MUST too for safety. The cork gasket got soaked but I felt comfy snugging it back down. I never fully removed the float chamber cover but had all screws out and was able to lift the driver's side of the chamber (US) enough to get the pump out.
Made a huge difference in performance. I only put on a few miles after that but will report more if anything comes up.
Hope this helps someone.
1978 4WD Wagon - the Hitachi DCP-306
To do this job without gas in your face disconnect your fuel pump and let the carb stall itself out. Or at least watch the level thru the glass and shut it down as it sinks.