rocksteady Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 93 legacy 2.2L auto. weird clacking, checked the HLA's not that, checked the timing components not that! sounds like it's coming from lower in the motor or the bell housing. Kinda rattles on after I rev the engine, changes speed when I put the car in reverse. Camshaft bearing? pressure plate? flywheel? Rod Knock? loose bolts? Any help would be appreciated! Cheers, Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Sounds like rod knock but seems too fast unless yuou have more then one. Pull one fule injector lead at a time and see if the noise changes pitch. If it does it is rod knock. Diagnosing sounds on the net is imperfect even with a recording, but it does have that classic hollow sound to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocksteady Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 yep seems like you may be right I pulled the injectors like you said and it went away signifigantly on the #1 cylinder. Was starting to think it was a cracked pressure plate till you mentioned this so thank you! Now what do I do???? I'd imagine I need to pull the motor to fix it. how long can I continue to drive it before it throws the rod? Cheers, Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 In all honesty, That is so loud I think we are well past "how long can I drive it like this". I can tell your from experience that they do finally let loose in a rather dramatic way (read parts of engine case all over road). I would start looking for a used motor now and really not use the car unless you have too. It is just a matter of when not if at this point. Can be now, tomorrow, next week, next month, but honestly, I dont think this is one of those you can keep driving like this (very mild rod knock sometimes you can). I wouldnt let this thing rev very high or work very hard to make it last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocksteady Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 cool I appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Try using a hose as a stethoscope to isolate the noise. It sounds kind of like a periodic scraping to me which makes me think there's a problem with the flex plate. There's no pressure plate or flywheel on an auto. Double check the torque converter bolts through the access hole below the throttle body. Is the same whether the engine is cold or hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Flexplate noise is high pitched and doesnt go away with the remocal of fuel for one cylinder. Flexplate tends to be more of a ting ting ting and he stated it is from the front of the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Flexplate noise is high pitched and doesnt go away with the remocal of fuel for one cylinder. Flexplate tends to be more of a ting ting ting and he stated it is from the front of the engine. Umm, he never said front of engine, he said bell housing. sounds like it's coming from lower in the motor or the bell housing.A broken flex plate could sound high pitched. But it could be loose bolts as well, easy enough to check! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) Could be loose flexplate bolt or warped/cracked flexplate knocking agaisnt inner bellhousing. Pull the rubber inspection plug and rotate the enigne by hand and observe the bolt heads for signs of contact. Edited June 16, 2013 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocksteady Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Thanks for all the beta! I did check the inspection hole and it looks like the flex plate has a skip in it like a bent bike tire, which would make sense that it changes tone when I put it in reverse. I tried pulling the injectors again and the sound doesnt go away after all, and the sound doesn't go away after the car warms up. The torque converter bolts do show some signs of wear on the outside which makes it seem as though theyre contacting something. Easier to pull the trans or the motor to fix? Cheers, Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Left out those little tidbits, sure make me look bad. A much better outcome then a connecting rod bearing. i wonder why these seem to be coming up more then on other cars. Well how long untill you are due for a timing belt, that will help with an answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 The auto trans are quite heavy, so if you have an engine hoist I'd vote for the engine pull. You can also do any maintenance items like reseal, timing belt, etc. like nipper suggests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 A bent or cracked flex plate will usually make more noise when under load, when in drive or reverse. So this is definitely plausible. I'd pull the engine for this. You really don't even have to get it all the way out, but you'll have so much taken apart just to get the engine and trans separated that you might as well pull the engine anyway. And on the off-chance the flex plate turns out to be fine, the engine will already be out and ready for replacement or rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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