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starting T belt


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9 replies to this topic

#1 bgambino

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:05 AM

ok...my nieces 2007 Impreza RS

Starting T belt job today *(with seals--o-ring---w pump--thermostat etc)

 

I've done the 96 +/- legacys/outback...mine and my sons

 

this should be same

 

want to refresh my memory----

1--when lining up cams and crank for T belt install......the crank sprocket has some kind of arrow or mark.....but ALSO the middle timing mark on the flywheel has to be lined up...RIGHT?  this ensures that cranks is aligned properly..?

 

2----as for the cam sprockets.....as long as the marks line with the plastic cover I am okay right? I mean I could rotate it 360 degrees and the valves are always in the correct position right?

 

thanks a lot-----I should be ready to install the belt by 5 or 6 pm...who is online today??? LOL

 



#2 Fairtax4me

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:38 AM

I don't recall ever hearing about a mark on the flywheel on EJs. I think the old EA cars had only a mark on the flywheel.

There are only 24 teeth on the crank sprocket so being one tooth off there means its 15 degrees out of time, which is a huge angle. You'll be able to see pretty clearly that that's out. As long as the hash mark on the reluctor is close to the mark on the oil pump housing it should be fine.

For the cams just point the hash marks at the notches in the covers. If you find that the mark on the drivers side doesn't exactly line up with the notch, its usually best to set the hash to the right of the notch (toward the drivers side).

Be sure to turn the crank so the crank and cams are at their timing marks before removing the old belt. It also helps to loosen the cam sprocket bolts before removing the belt since that will hold them in place.

#3 ivans imports

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:38 AM

Buy a subaru belt then marks are paited on it dotted line in center oppest the keyway small scribed line both cams strait up line on belt lines up with small scribed line on cams DO NOT USE ARROWS as they are only for valve addjustments



#4 bgambino

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:53 AM

I don't recall ever hearing about a mark on the flywheel on EJs. I think the old EA cars had only a mark on the flywheel.

There are only 24 teeth on the crank sprocket so being one tooth off there means its 15 degrees out of time, which is a huge angle. You'll be able to see pretty clearly that that's out. As long as the hash mark on the reluctor is close to the mark on the oil pump housing it should be fine.

For the cams just point the hash marks at the notches in the covers. If you find that the mark on the drivers side doesn't exactly line up with the notch, its usually best to set the hash to the right of the notch (toward the drivers side).

Be sure to turn the crank so the crank and cams are at their timing marks before removing the old belt. It also helps to loosen the cam sprocket bolts before removing the belt since that will hold them in place.

fairtax...thanks...and especially for the reminder to remove the bolts of the cam sprocket before removing belt...!

 

Yes I will try to remove belt while all is lined up...and take photos

 

I should get one of those chain wrenches to hold the cam sprockets for tightening the bolts (with an old belt around it of course)

For those without the proper wrench...how do YOU hold the sprocket?  I have used a piece of old belt and a large vise grip clamped on both ends of belt...somehow I have been able to hold it enough

Does anyone use an impact gun on low setting? not sure it could fit

 

I bought the import experts kit on ebay...happens to have one of those blue T belts...supposed to be hi performance  (forgot the brand off hand)

Usually I discard this belt and buy the Subaru one....but this kit was the most I have ever paid...$239.00

Since it is a hi perf belt with brand name...I'll use it



#5 ivans imports

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:55 AM

Why whould you remove the cam pullys any engine after 99 has liftime cam seals in them leave them alone asking for problems



#6 Fairtax4me

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:11 AM

Truthfully I put the new belt on (properly) and just use it to hold the cams when I torque the cam sprocket bolts. Probably not supposed to but I've never had a problem doing it that way. Torque spec on the cam bolts is only like 50 ft lbs. (check the FSM for your year as that spec may be different for the newer engines)

#7 bgambino

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 11:33 AM

can I start the car after the T belt is installed just to hear it run (will it start/run without the alternator hooked up?)



#8 Fairtax4me

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 11:47 AM

Yup. Should be able to start and run it for a few seconds after putting the belt on to make sure it will run smooth. Just make sure to put the crank pulley is on so the crank sprocket can get loose. The pressure of the crank bolt forces the crank pulley and sprocket against the crankshaft and keeps it from spinning. Without the crank pulley in place the only thing keeping the crank sprocket lined up is the key which is not intended to hold the sprocket while the engine is running.

Also be sure to wrap the end of the alternator lead with electrical tape so it doesn't short to the block.

Edited by Fairtax4me, 20 September 2013 - 11:49 AM.


#9 bgambino

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 01:05 PM

Yup. Should be able to start and run it for a few seconds after putting the belt on to make sure it will run smooth. Just make sure to put the crank pulley is on so the crank sprocket can get loose. The pressure of the crank bolt forces the crank pulley and sprocket against the crankshaft and keeps it from spinning. Without the crank pulley in place the only thing keeping the crank sprocket lined up is the key which is not intended to hold the sprocket while the engine is running.

Also be sure to wrap the end of the alternator lead with electrical tape so it doesn't short to the block.

 

super

what about the 1/2 moon guard over the belt...is that supposed to be gapped or is there no adjustment (just bolt in place)?

--and what about the jiggly thing on the thermosata? for some reason I thought that was to be near ground level 6 oclock ...on her car it is at 12 oclock



#10 Fairtax4me

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 01:31 PM

The guard actually has A very specific adjustment that must be done properly or the guard will rub against the belt. Gates actually sells a special tool for this purpose, but the backyard way is to find something about 3-16" - 1/8" thick and flexible enough to place between the belt and guard. It should be at least the length of the guard. Install and tighten the guard and then remove the spacer.

Jiggle valve on the T stat should be at 12 o'clock if the stat housing is vertical. This lets air bubbles trapped behind the t stat through if it is closed.

On the horizontal housings jiggle valve should be to the front.

Edited by Fairtax4me, 20 September 2013 - 01:36 PM.





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