bgambino

yeah it was in trunk....it says on it "must be removed after towing" About 8" long How and why (and why) is this used? ANd there was only one....should there be 2?

been wondering what this is for quite awhile now.....

thanks guys....wish mine was horizontal like the youtube video Mine is vertical and kind of cramped for space....

So directly above the oil filter is this weird looking thing like multiple rings stacked up (2006 forester non turbo 111k) It was covered in a thick oil dirt mixture---one pic as is and one pic cleaned What is it? some kind of oiling cooling mechanism Wondering where the oil is coming from And does anyone else besides me absolutely HATE the newer exhaust system ? The way it covers so much of the bottom of the engine makes it a real pain to see oil leaks....especially if you want to look at the full length of the head gasket area....sheesh

02 legacy sedan and o3 impreza sedan My 02 start having intermittent problems "popping" the trunk open I would get out and push down on trunk lid....go back and pull lever and it would work....then I started having to do it 2 and 3 times to get It to pop Has not worked at all in awhile (the lever is in the right spot) Is the cable stretched? Any way to fix this? thanks guys and girls

best idea so far Dave----thanks

thanks dave---so you let the car idle? How long did it take for the 5 gallons?

You guys are good....except locating the pump/relay/connectors is vague I don't want to hook up 12V to something and screw something up I do really need to get that gas out so any further help is much appreciated thanks

Dave....how do I run the pump?

I have a leak in 2003 impreza tank.....only when it is over 1/2 full I need to try and find the source In the meantime (it is not registered and I filled the tank)......I need to drain 3/4 of the tank I did not realize that I cant register it until I get a special NY State inspection due to it being technically totaled last year I don't want the leak showing during this inspection.....my son used to drive it below 1/2 full all the time I will have the tank changed but that will have to come later I tried a garden hose and then inserted a rigid poly tube into it.....I still could not get anything into the tank If there is a drain plug underneath (not sure) I hate to mess with that Anyone???? thanks!

hey guys I isolated why my pass side front window will not work---power is there so motor is shot 2006 forester I was hesitant to do anything yet---still gotta get a motor from junkie There are 2 10mm bolts visible.......reaching inside it feels like 3 Philips screws==seems like a tough screws to remove after being there for 10 years----awkward spot to get to---- Will the window drop if I remove motor? Whats the procedure to replace thanks a million

Great thought LT I did when I first had the issue...the filter was pretty nasty.....I forgot there even was a cabin filter I thought the issue went away but has returned Filter was just replaced 5-6 weeks ago so it can't be that now I guess putting a shot of freon is doable....its just that it seems plenty cold The thing about the condensor freezing might bi it....I wonder if that is visible at all to the naked eye

so my 2006 forster non turbo occasionally will stop blowing cold air....for say 2-4 minutes....whether driving or idling--does not matter Smells humid when it does this...perhaps that's normal I have noticed that the compressor is not spinning (when this happens at idle) It blows plenty cold when it's running correctly so it cannot need freon What else could it be? I'm afraid to ask...LOL If guessing...I think this has been happening on the hottest days Any help would be appreciated thanks

So twice now I have done rear brake jobs on my or my familys Subaru and ran into a weird issue In this case it was 2003 impresa rs Last was probably 04 wrx of my son So I mount the rotor and tire and as I start tightening the lug nuts, the tire gets harder and harder to spin...until it totally will not spin at all Take a look at the pic of the new rear rotor....that raised lip on the inner edge of the drum opening (for the shoes)...as I tighten the lugs....this rams into the face plate surrounding the brake shoes It took me awhile to figure out what was wrong the first time....this time I recognized the problem immediately Take them off and grind the raised lip down flush with the rotor disc surface Autozone rotors.....I doubt they gave me the wrong parts but.....?

Crazy not to buy it...no brainer...I would buy 10 of those Did the same with my sons 03 impreza last year...had 60,000 miles on it

thanks LT I would like to drop that plastic box under the rear pass side of car but as u can imagine, the nut/bolts are in horrible condition. I am afraid of using a torch due to the plastic Anyone have experience getting these off?? Isn't it amazing how screws/nuts and bolts can sometimes be the most frustrating part of a job?

Last night I noticed something weird When slowing down to a stop....when I am down to like 10 MPH, all of a sudden the speedo needle bounces up to 25...then down then up to 30 then settles back to normal as I am coming to a stop. It does a double or triple bounce like that when slowing to a stop Then I noticed something similar when accelerating from a standstill When I hit about 5mph, it bounces up and down a few times and then settles out Then sometimes it acts totally normal

My sons wrx--65,000 miles The last 3 fill ups it has been difficult to pump the gas quickly...he says it has to be done slow no mater what angle he plays with the pump nozzle It just dawned on me that maybe the code I cleared could have something to do with it (cleared it a few days ago) I don't remember the number but it said something about that it could be the gas cap How could the 2 things be linked? We looked at the cap, tightened...code has not come back yet #2 - his 6 disc cd player----was working fine now when trying to play....it just silently switched to radio and spits out the cd

so I uncover my summer car---2002 Legacy GT and find I have this dreaded code....just when I want to sell it..! I clear it and it comes back 3 seconds after start up Looking for any experience out there....thanks

You know how you are always afraid of breaking a part because you have no clue how the retaining clips are oriented on the inside...? I want to change the front interior lights in the interior light assy (right behind the rearview mirror in headliner) How do I pop out that assembly without breaking it...? 2004 WRX/Impreza thanks

I have a 2000 and 2002 OB wagon parts cars I was wondering if I can take off the lower plastic (large) trim pieces and attach to my plain jane 2001 legacy...? How do they attach? To complete the job I guess I would need to replace front and rear bumpers which usually match color with the door panel pieces right? Then....if I really wanted...I could swap struts? to get some lift (altho I have no idea how many miles might be on those struts--high mileage cars)...and then use 16" rims too... thoughts? thanks

problem went away by itself...so far anyway Previously I did jiggle the wire down by the brake pedal when pressing the brake---no change I want to check the voltage down there while it is working to see what normal is---then wait for the problem to return

UPDATE I used my voltmeter to see what voltage was going to that interlock at the shifter......(I am not an electronics expert lol) I poked thru the wires that just enter the interlock to see what is happening Step on brake....zero volts and no movement of interlock When is does activate with the push of the brake pedal....the meter (set at 20v range) would jump to only .45 volts and then immediately start dropping to .02 then .01 volts---the interlock still held Then i warmed up the cabin........it seems that it activates a little more often when its warmer......also.....the voltage gets higher too...as high as 6+ but still drops.....then sometimes 1 or 2 volts and drops..... Attached is a picture of that plunger switch at the brake pedal.....now, maybe it just went bad.....but notice the clipped on extra wire----that has to be from the shop that installed the remote starter Yet......I cannot understand how that could "stop" voltage from going from the brake switch to the shift interlock........it is only a piggyback wire it seems Bad switch or call the guy at the remote starter shop

Hey guys I just checked the brakes lites. When I step on the pedal and the interlock (at the shifter) DOES work....the brake lites come on When the interlock does NOT activate with a push on the pedal....the brakes lites do NOT work Are we sure it then is the switch at the pedal?? Anyone ever change this? location? procedure? the mystery unfolds....

I popped off a few covers off and there is the culprit.....It works maybe 1/10th of the time the brake is pressed Don't see any gunk holding it up Was hoping to clean it rather than replace I should probably make sure that power is going to it with each press of the pedal first.......and hope its not a deeper problem In the meantime I will get a price from my friends at walker-renton Subaru out in WA state Anyone know of a dealer who mail orders parts at a discount here on the east coast? These guys are great and they really don't gouge on the shipping cost....it's just that a faster delivery time to NY state would be nice Added-----wow...they emailed me a price in 5 mins....$41.21 #35173SA000 solenoid unit shift