bgambino

FairTax......you are right.....I did not hear a click under the shifter when pressing on the brake pedal This morning it was intermittently working and I can definitely hear the click when I step on brake (when it is working properly) So what is this part called Can it be cleaned? I thought I read somewhere that that's all it may need Not sure how to get at it though The huge suby junkyard 40 minutes from me will sell the whole shifter for $75..... Would rather clean it if possible

My moms 07 forester....95k Seems that the frigid cold brings out all kinds of problems! All of a sudden she gets in car and brake lite is on She does not use the E brake so it should not be a switch that did not release Brake fluid is above the low mark....topped it off anyway---saw nothing leaking under /around any wheel (inside or out) Lifted and released Ebrake numerous times...no change Any ideas? thanks

ok...this morning I used the remote starter....when I got in the car it shifted with no issue Maybe at lunch time I will go out and see if i can here that click you spoke about (assuming it shifts flawlessly) I will see my mom tonight--she has an 07 forester...I am going to listen to hers also thanks

no sound when pressing the brake....even when it is working properly The only sound is when the shifter is moved left-to-right while in the park position---you can hear a solenoid clicking under the dash I went out and popped the panel off around the shifter---there was a little "cap" I pulled out,,,,,see the picture This is similar to my 95 legacy I pushed that white thing with a screwdriver and that solves the problem It over rides the lock So its some kind of shift lock Not sure how to get to it underneath there or what the part is called...

06 forester Now....a week ago I got a remote starter put in the car....but I don't see any relationship to this problem I noticed today that if I step on the brake it wont come out of park into reverse. I release brake pedal...try...nothing do it 5-6 more times nothing Then next time it will shift out of park as normal If I KEEP the brake pedal down....I can put it back in park and back to reverse no problem....I can move it 10 times Then release the brake pedal and step on it again...the shifter will not move.... I have to press and release it maybe 10 times before I can finally get it to shift out of park I do hear the electronic relay clicking every time I move the shifter (yes even when I cannot get it into reverse)----it clicks when you slide the shifter to the right Is it a faulty switch attached to the brake pedal? Is it a neutral safety switch/ under the shift console?

Hey men I don't have my owners manual....what can I top off my PS reservoir with? 06 Forester Years ago plain old tranny fluid was ok...not sure now

How do I permanently disable this? thanks 06 forester

hey guys A few weeks ago the pass side window would not go up or down.....neither with the pass door switch nor the switch on the drivers master console The next day it was fine Now it is doing it again and has not operated for the past week. Anyone have an idea where the problem is? thanks

That's weird....check the connection and test that fuse The other guys have more experience with T bind than me but let me tell you my experience with it I bought a 95 legacy knowing it had TB. Of course I had hoped the draining and refilling of trans fluid would miraculously solve the problem (along with 4 new tires) It didn't So, I just kept the fuse in and drove it in FWD----when I needed AWD (if it snowed for a day) I just pulled the fuse.....yes, kind of a PIA....but keep reading So all this spring/summer I kept the fuse in and would occasionally do another drain and refill now and then About 2 months ago I decided to put a toggle switch on the lower dash---running 2 wires to the fuse holder in the eng compartment In this way I can toggle in and out of AWD from the drivers seat....wooohooo I hate the TB on dry pavement----always makes me feel like I am doing more damage By using it only when it's slippery out......there is nothing harmful happening..... So I expected to use this for the coming winter......but.....After installing it, I flipped it into AWD and lo and behold the TB was totally gone The lesson here is......it took AWHILE for my clean fluid to do whatever it needed to do.... So unless you really love the idea of dropping the rear ham part of the tranny and going thru all that work......you could try this idea and see what happens in 6 months

I have a duh moment...I should have asked: 1--WHY would the crank sprocket need to be changed? 2--why the cam gear also(by that I assume we are talking about the "pulley" that is on the end of the cam shaft that the T belt rides on?)? If you are dropping a whole engine.....and maybe? just swapping the intakes (not even sure about this part)----why do u have to do 1 & 2 above? While we are talking about 2000-2003/4 OB/forester engine swaps.....what about the imprezas? I wish we had an accurate sticky of all the possible engine swaps......and what if anything would need to be adjusted to make the swap THAT would be a valuable asset here

I have never bought a suby with a 6 How reliable are they? I know they have a chain When do they need to be adjusted When do they need a complete change---how difficult is it? I don't remember hearing about HG issues...? Any repetitive repair issues? thanks...just curious

Sorry to hear that Em..... You are tough as nails girl....!....I hope things get better for you Thanks for the info....I always question when people say left/rt because I don't trust that people are speaking from the drivers seat Now YOU I should trust...! And thanks for the info on the T belt guard....I will store that away in my head

Hey Emily....how's the recuperation going? By left...which side do you mean? Am why the belt guard depending if manual or automatic? What's the issue as to why they all have or don't have it? Thanks for the education

So far it seems to happen when the mornings are at or below freezing After 3 miles of so...seems to stop doing it I am going to let it idle for 5 minutes and warm up a bit on the next morning and see what happens

well...I emailed the guy on craigslist...lets see if it is still available...I doubt it thanks..

you had to change the intake no??

what year OB did you take the motor out of? thanks

sorry...should have read..." It's a lot to type but the blocks do not work Forester to Legacy without splitting it and changing 1/2 of the block to another style. He also said..."Spacing for intake is done on the heads"

I was thinking about buying an 02 forester with a problem motor I have an 02 and a 2000 OB wagon with good motors Can these blocks fit into the forester and just swap the intakes? (FYI the forester is a manual and the wagons are automatics) Before you answer see below The guy from the local (and HUGE) Subaru salvage yard here says no.... not without a lot of work (WHY CAN'T you PASTE INFO IN YOUR MESSAGES HERE???? can someone explain that to me?) He said this...... 1st email----"you would have to change the block" 2nd email after I asked if it had something to do with the spacing of the intake ports he said....""it's a lot to type but the blocks do not work forester to legacy without splitting it and changing 1/2 of the block to another to another style" I have no idea what he is saying...does anyone know for sure?

I bought a 95 plain jane legacy about a year ago knowing it had a little TB Nice condition with only 124K...a keeper with the beloved 2.2L A few drain and fills and new tires did not change it so I just slapped a fuse in I would take it out during last winter if I needed the 4wd I recently wired a switch to the dash from that fuse holder so I could easily toggle from fwd to 4wd In the past few months I also did a few more drain and fills So for kicks I decided to turn on the 4wd and see how the TB is doing....and I don't really feel it on dry pavement Now at first I was excited but then wondered....is the 4wd really engaging?? Is there something wrong with the Duty C or something..... I don't get any codes or flashing trans temp lite and never did There is no snow yet so is there any easy test to confirm that the rear wheels are really being driven?

2006 forester non turbo 104,000 Bought it from an older friend who took really good care of it Been driving fine for 2 months All of a sudden it shifted hard into OD when cold yesterday (about 30F here in NY) Stopped...started again and did it once more. a mile later stopped in grocery store...seemed fine after that This morning did the same thing The fluid is at normal level and extremely clean I don't know what's in there but it is not the typical red color I am used to It's almost clear...I have to look again and take a picture I really don't need a tranny issue...! Especially when we all know I will have HG issues at some point too... Anyone have some insight please?

yes of course I know it goes on the pump to engine surfaces thanks fairtax....its the backing plate I was asking about......and i'll wash out threaded holes and screws and Loctite them appreciate it..!

ok so besides the 4 forester struts that I now have.....what trailing arms do I need? from what vehicle? does OB sedan or wagon matter? Do I need the trailing arm OR the trailing arm bracket or both? Do I need the bolts off of it too? anything else? Also.....what do I need to loosen or take apart to get this longer strut into place (front and rear)....I've never replaced one b4

on another thread I had multiple topics going on I asked about putting sealant (or not) on the back plate of the oil pump when reassembling I got one guess that someone just coated the surfaces with oil Anyone else?? will be working on this is a few hours 95 legacy 2.2L non turbo

so I have some low mileage struts to lift this thing.... I know it was mentioned about the fact that I did not have to change the trailing arms using 96-99 outback part Check this out....is this the same? rear control arms same as trailing arms? http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/pts/52782768344.html I never heard of adjustable ones Do these look correct?