bgambino

Hey guys I am about to put my 2004 wrx (2.0) on the road I took it out and was idling it while I washed it I was not paying a lot of attention but then noticed it was not idling low...not normal Checked and tach was reading about 1800 RPM Had reached normal op temp for quite some time hit pedal a few times...would not drop Any input would be much appreciated I was thinking maybe the coolant temp sensor?? I don't know where it is of if there is a way to test it No check engine lites but.... 1st...my battery was dead for a week..,,,2nd....I only idled it for 20 minutes and took it for a 5 minutes spin

Got a friend with a 98 impreza She said months ago her blower motor stopped...them came back on...been fine ever since Now it quit again She says she checked fuse but I wil check and swap it as a first step Then see if there is 12v at motor....if not, I'll test the motor with 12v If no power to motor, I guess it could be the switch....not sure how best to check that Any thoughts? Does a 97 legacy use the same heating switch? I have a one as a parts car....

I want to get one and I see the hand held trigger type which use vacuum vs. the tank pressure type like made by Motive I like the tank type but I have heard of issues trying to get them to seal properly on the M cylinder Would like to hear user opinions thanks

Hey peeps...rise and shine..! would 17" rims from 06/07 wrx (225/45/17) fit onto my 04 wrx which has the 16"?

sorry Em....I threw a proverbial wrench in there ...as you know I am working on 2 jobs at once

ok....who here has done a leak down test?? What I understand is that I need to get each cylinder to TDC and tap 30 PSI into the C. Chamber...and look for bubbles in coolant--is that correct? How do I find TDC for cyl 1---2004 WRX Once found, my understanding is that I just need to turn crank 1/4 turn and then #3 cyl is ready to be tested then same for 2 & 4 That sound correct? Also...see pic of label under the hood.....I was looking for the size of the engine.....I was a little confused by the "2.5" about the 2.0L on the line below it I assume this is a 2.0L turbo and not a 2.5? I need this info for getting brake pads etc

2005 legacy GT.....the silver piece just below the radio (included the ash tray too)and that surrounds the stick shift. How does this come off? I want to replace it and the smaller piece with the hole for the shift stick..... the silver side strips must come off first but im afraid I will break them without guidance thanks (anyone got a clean one?)

I'll tell you....I have been driving subarus since 1980..... They just seem to be riddled with some bad designs....most notably the HG issues for almost 10 years It's disappointing to a loyal enthusiast Emily....that's NOT the answer I wanted to hear haha I can't complain....I'm sure I can sell it for $3500.....I was just looking for an easy fix and a bigger killing (hey, they rarely come around like this) Let's see what other suggestions pop up though

Thanks for the info Emily Okay let me give what little history I know and have recently found out about this car. I bought it sight unseen. Was about 2 hours from me in Long Island. My cousin works for a tow shop/body shop. His boss towed the car to a mechanic shop for the customer. This non Subaru private shop said the engine was shot. My cousin contacted me and asked if I was interested in the car for $800? After seeing some pics I said heck yeah! (later I found out his boss got it for 600 and made a quick 200 on me---who cares haha...his loss for not keeping it..!!) Since then I spoke to my cousin and got just a little more info He said that the owner told him that he had a $1500 exhaust put on (Looks like thick Stainless steel...its not all the way to the front though)....he claims it overheated on him at some point and he blames the fact that they never "replaced" the 02 sensors (as if to say they did not take the old ones out and put new ones on. I'm pretty sure I saw the wire going to the front one---I have to double check that both stock ones are there---but cats "look" like they are stock). Now this does not make a lot of sense to me. Even non functioning 02 sensors should not cause over heat If it overheated...the question is why? Overheating could definitely have blown the turbo. I do agree that I think it is oil blowing all that smoke. When the car was flat bedded to me, I noticed the oil was at the bottom of the dip stick and dirty. I changed it (have not monitored the levels yet--I should). I also seem to hear an intermittent rattle or something near the turbo while it idles. Also....the antifreeze is super clean and with a fresh green color. I have to think that it was recently changed Over the weekend I used (for the first time) the CO2 test kit with the vials filled with the blue fluid. I did it twice and repeatedly squeezed the bulb many times...negative on the color change The one thing I should do is run the car for awhile and check that gurgling and the pushing of the Afreeze into the overflow tank...see if it happens all the time. Temp gauge operates totally normal during warm up and sticks where it should during idle. If it is gurgling, I have no idea why. If it were coming a HG leak, that could only happen while engine is running So...aside from the suggestions from you guys forthcoming, I need to do these things: 1--Monitor and test the gurgling after shut sown---does it happen all the time? Is there any oil at all in a freeze in overflow tank 2--Monitor oil level on dip stick 3--check to be sure both 02 sensors are there and wired up If I buy a rebuilt turbo.....and then drive and find out it over heats.....I'm not sure where that puts me Can you get a false negative on the CO2 test? Maybe the head gaskets are shot also. Maybe a turbo is all it needs. Not knowing for sure if the HGs are bad, maybe its better to sell the car as-is....with a bad turbo. I did get a negative on the CO2 test. I might be ahead of the game if selling it now. Oh what to do....?

oh...and Emily....no...just got very lucky twice

Hey ccr...is that you Emily? Both you and Fairtax.......I am encouraged that maybe it is fixable.....I have questions Fair---is that Saab an oil leak in the turbo or antifreeze (or not sure)? I have yet to find any vids on youtube of antifreeze leaking out of the turbo and into the exhaust stream....thought I would If it is a leak of AF into the turbo...why would the overflow tank bubble and fill up after shut down? That is not normal (motor temp is normal) OK...what to do at this point? I just bought one of those CO2 testers....I guess I should test it out tonite If CO2 present....there is HG or cracked block or head If not....it could be a false negative.... I will take some pics and video of the smoke too altho I have no idea how to post the video or if I can here

(note---no water in oil--no oil in water)

(note---no water in oil--no oil in water)

So my cousin found this GT turbo for me..... 93k On start up it blows a tremendous cloud of smoke...I mean big! I have never seen anything like it. I was afraid the neighbor might call the fire dept..>! When warmed up and idling for awhile it settles down but hit the gas and it bellows. Pretty white in color. No real power...barely moves out of it's own way. I assume it's choking on anti-freeze. (THE pic attached does NOT show the real pillows of smoke that it can do---I forgot to take one) Head gaskets THAT bad? Cracked head/block? I got it cheap so I am thinking of selling it as-is but......is it possible that it could be Anything more simple?? Another way coolant could be getting in there? I am just taking a shot in the dark before I pull the trigger on selling it

TEX..I never heard of the 105 month rule...! UGH...I hate twin cam T belt jobs---did one...was my first....and without the tools to hold the cam sprockets...

So I am at my desk at work about 3PM last Thursday...perusing several different geographic areas on CL for Subarus. I click on Albany NY (about a 2 hour drive from me) and I scroll to a posting that was about 1 hour old. I have been seeing A LOT of dumb scams for the past few months...but they have been SO obvious to spot. I thought perhaps this was a more clever scam. It read that this person was selling her friends 2004 WRX (and the friend was an older woman) which had too much rust under it and they would not pass it for its NY State inspection. 46,000 miles-- original owner for $2500. I said, that is too good to be true.I wondered HOW MUCH rust could be under there But I know it was worth twice+ that in parts alone I text her (what also made me think it was a scam too was that it was a N Carolina number) After texting I said...let me try and call....crap...no answer--left message LO and behold she calls back in 5 minutes Says she was on the phone with the very first caller Promised him he could come at 9 the next morning big time CRAP The next morning at 8 I text her and tell her to set me up with a tentative appt at 10...if that guy calls to postpone his 9 AM visit...tell him you have a commitment for 10 5 mins later she texts..... "call me" Sure enough the guy called and lamented that it's kinda far blah blah. I'M IN...! 1.5 hours later I arrive with money in hand (she was about 45 mins away) It was no scam Her 90 year old lady friend(YES 90!!!!) bought the car new...and it's a 5 speed no less. She was driving it up till the week before I look under it expecting massive holes in the sheet metal floor pans............... NOPE----the rust is on the cross member bracketry/sway bar/cross member support/trailing link etc Yes the rust was heavy....but not in danger of breaking immediately or anything Interior after a light detailing will be a 9/9.5 Body at least an 8.5...I think I was too darn excited to scrutinize it LOL Ran fine I will have it flat bedded Wednesday I only got one pic....I said to Charlotte..."NO ONE is going to believe that I bought this for a little 90 year old woman"...she was a sweet woman. (I had to text my 17 + 21 year old boys right away....they were arguing between them who deserved it..yeah right !!) Pic attached.....in a few weeks I will post pics after I have time to detail it....maybe the rust sooner The car once I replace the rusted parts is worth $10,000 easy This is almost a once in a lifetime buy....

Okay...just a random question running thru my mind... How far past the 105k service mark have you gone with a timing belt? Personally, I do not like tempting fate with an interference engine so, fear rules me...I try to be religious about it

I've yet to find a decent set of forester struts to lift my 95 legacy I did read the sticky but have questions: First....someone above mentioned 98-08 struts would fits...true? Is there any difference in what needs to be done when using 98-02 struts compared to newer 04-08 struts? I would like the option of using up to 2008 as they would be newer and it gives me a wider search possibility 2--I read things about new camber bolts in rear--would I need this/ 3--what about trailing arms or trailing arm brackets? different ones needed? 4--spacers? of any kind needed? 5--drilling of may holes required? Not being terribly versed in this I am hoping to unbolt and bolt in different struts and get 2" lift thanks for the advise and the patience

any others experienced with this question// TIA

I made an error.... I want to put a 2002 or a 2004 (I have both as parts car--prefer the 02 motor tho) into a 2004 Impreza (not a 2005 But the 04 and 05 imprezas look the same--so I am guessing it may not matter that the one I am looking to buy is actually a 2004? I am nervous to buy this 04 impreza with the blown motor as we have emissions here in NY and I don't want to do a lot of work and it ending bad.... Any other experiences would be great to hear about. I did not realize that was ccr above.....

I made an error.... I want to put a 2002 or a 2004 (I have both as parts car--prefer to 02 motor tho) into a 2004 Impreza (not a 2005 But the 04 and 05 imprezas look the same--so I am guessing it may not matter that the one I am looking to buy is actually a 2004? I am nervous to buy this 04 impreza with the blown motor as we have emissions here in NY and I don't want to do a lot of work and it ending bad.... Any other experiences would be great to hear about. I did not realize that was ccr above.....

is it impossible that a 2002 or 2004 automatic outback wagon 2.5 could go into a 2005 impreza RS 5 speed sedan??

My nieces 07 impreza---symptoms--low idle and stalling often when letting off the gas pedal. On other forums I saw that most times the symptoms are total lack of acceleration---maybe 1500 rpms max---sort of a limp mode She does not have this issue Anyone have experience with this?

just thought I would try this one more time...

Fairtax or anyone I found a diagram online that seemed to indicate the PW circuit breaker was under the steering column So from the 02 OB wagon I took the seat out of...I went under the column and don't think I could find it See the 3 pics attached---sorry they are not great I don't see anything with an amp rating Anyone know what this thing looks like or where it is exactly? thanks very much