bgambino

Hey guys I have not been on in awhile and this is the first I have seen the new and improved board. Do we have a search button any longer?? My 1996 legacy 2.2 automatic threw a P0302 cyl #2 misfire What have I got?? thanks PS---just started it and was running rough....no warning Has all OEM wires/plugs etc but about 32,000 miles ago...so they "should" be good... Coil pack? I have no idea how to test it

thanks Gary...I should have looked on ebay It's the second link I have no 90 degree bend Oh crap...it looks like it uses the O2 sensor so I have to get a cat Will these cheapie cats set a code easily?? altho I guess i could use a cheater right?---in New York we cant have the CEL lit up Here is what the system looks like http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&sa=N&tbo=d&biw=1152&bih=644&tbm=isch&tbnid=en56D3dqcs4E1M:&imgrefurl=http://www.bestvalueautoparts.com/Replacement_Parts/SUBARU/LEGACY/Illust_Ref_c_Exhaust.html&docid=gw_NH-Yz6zNCEM&imgurl=http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/MER/13932.jpg&w=4077&h=976&ei=VlPHUNTJBavH0AH1koCYCA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=2&vpy=165&dur=909&hovh=110&hovw=459&tx=162&ty=65&sig=108017952947358637059&page=1&tbnh=63&tbnw=254&start=0&ndsp=23&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:86

thanks Gary...I should have looked on ebay It's the second link above I have no 90 degree bend--see below for diagram I did not realize it has an O2 sensor on it,,,crap...so I have to get a cat? And I'll bet the cheapie ones will throw a code after a short life...? I could use an O2 cheater... thoughts? Here is what the system looks like http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&sa=N&tbo=d&biw=1152&bih=644&tbm=isch&tbnid=en56D3dqcs4E1M:&imgrefurl=http://www.bestvalueautoparts.com/Replacement_Parts/SUBARU/LEGACY/Illust_Ref_c_Exhaust.html&docid=gw_NH-Yz6zNCEM&imgurl=http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/MER/13932.jpg&w=4077&h=976&ei=VlPHUNTJBavH0AH1koCYCA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=2&vpy=165&dur=909&hovh=110&hovw=459&tx=162&ty=65&sig=108017952947358637059&page=1&tbnh=63&tbnw=254&start=0&ndsp=23&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:86

Josh Thanks but that cannot be it. Mine does not take a 90 degree bend...it has a flat flange on each end. Just after the Y pipe. It is a resonator or c converter pipe Anyone?? I cant be the first to ask this LOL thanks guys

if this posts twice...forgive me....it dod not seem to post the first time 96 legacy 2.2 4dr sedan Does anyone make a "test pipe" for the short pipe directly behind the Y pipe? If not...anyone know of a cheap online source for replacement? thanks I have to say that this year and motor is the most reliable of ANY mid to late 90's ....212k and running great

does it have a replaceable fuel filter 4 dr impreza rs

My son's car threw this light a month ago--cleared it and has not been back What will happen if it fails completely...what will the symptoms be? Just trying to decide if it is crucial to change it out or just wait thanks guys

hopefully someone has some other suggestions....mine won't go away with repeated clearing i am wondering if anyone has tried changing both 02 sensors with any success and what about after moarket vs. OEM

ok...2007 plain impreza 5 speed was getting the infamous P420 finally got around to doing to O2 cheater as state inspection is due 6/1 used one screw in cheater...cleared codes and these codes showed up: P1518 subaru specific P442--Evap sys. "small" leak P456--Evap sys "very small" leak P420 Added a second cheater (worked like a charm in my 96 OB) and I am still getting returning codes that wont go away Now it is P2096 post catalytic fuel trim sys too lean bank 1 Pending code: P1037 o2s ckt low volts 1 2 any help would be greatly appreciated...?

you are right...5 speed I will check the codes tonite as she said the CEL came on within 15 miles of home this morning --see if all 4 are there And I guess I should tell her to push the clutch to floor when starting would be GREAT to get rid of that one I can take care of the 420 code (BTW...do most of you change out the rear O2 sensor for this...what is the chance of success?). Or for those who use the O2 cheater...do you use a single or two at once (that is the one I saw done on another message board) Please....if this bothers anyone....(the O2 cheater)...please dont preach at me...thanks

so I'm looking for a hose that came off....? or a cracked hose?or damaged part----which would be difficult to find i am sure this sounds like nightmare! and the P1518....totally out of my ability oh boy! thanks guys

well...maybe the evap thing is something i can figure out...altho wouldn't a loose hose cause a running issue? There are always mice/chipmunks getting into our engine compartments here...does anyone know if mothballs would be damaging to the aluminum engine casing if laying on them over time...this would probably keep them out And how does the cabin filter tie in? you mean maybe a hose in and around it? This is behind the glove box?

Okay guys...I got a problem Neices 2007 impreza For some time the CEL would come on and the cruise lite would be on (or flash...I dont remember) Code would read the infamous 420 catalytic I figure ...no problem,,,before her state inspection is due (May 1) i will do an O2 cheater Well I go check it today...and I now have 4 codes,,,,and i'm afraid they are not easy ones for me to solve...tell me i'm wrong LOL P1518 subaru specific P442--Evap sys. "small" leak P456--Evap sys "very small" leak This poor kid does not have much money and I'm afraid I wil not be able to solve this for her Looking for a miracle..... thanks

I totally understand your point. It just irks me the mark-up on parts

no its not the original T belt...that was done at 100k as mentioned well...I figured the idea to bring your own parts would not fly...but he IS going to be armed with better dealer parts pricing... I understand your sentiments...that was your livelihood....you are speaking from a whole different angle than a customer.....but I don't like getting gouged...so I could care less how the mechanic feels about it

So my workmate has a 2005 forester Threw a code and was stalling at stops....P0506...he takes to dealer...his receipt says "throttle position sensor--remove throttle body to clean out chamber and reinstall So he had it done and was $207.00 Do you think they really took it off? Second thing WHile in there...they tell him he has a head gasket oil drip on one side (he was noticing spots on his driveway) and weeping on other side I was so disappointed to hear of a 2005 with this issue...jeez...I thought this crap was worked out So here is the best part Head gasket quote (both sides), reseal w pump, replace cam seals estimate $1650 (if heads need machining add $200...if needs timing belt add 200--he had t belt done at like 100k) NOTHING IS mentioned about water pump OR timing belt pulleys---NOTHING!!!! and it's at 150k with the originals How ridiculous I understand that they don't want to scare customers away to shop for a better price should they add the exorbitant cost of their additional parts but....! I am getting a quote from Walkers Renton (is the 1st Subaru? I forget) for pulleys and w pump and T belt and let him go in and ask why they did not include these.....and is this what they would do for their brother or mother??? idiots!!! I may even tell him to get the pulley kit from ebay (the import experts) and tell them to use these----b ut they would probably squawk at non subaru parts

Thanks 987 Is it possible the car would run badly if this happens again? If not, I have time to pull the speedo head If it COULD run crappy...I need to make it a priority TIA..! Love this site!

I would try to search this but I am at work.... My sons 96 legacy 2.2L Automatic threw this code No physical running problems that he mentioned I erased it Speed sensor malfunction What is this? WHere is the part located Cost? I have a 97 2.5 GT with a Manual tranny as a parts car Would this have the same part? thanks guys

"funky" seat belt so maybe 18 months ago, when the drivers automatic seat belt way moving in its track...a fiberous strip of some sort came loose and almost fell out...it was a thin strip and a little greasy (i dont think this is the source of the problem below but mentioning it anyway) I took it out and all was fine Recently,,,,when the belt moves all the way into position (door closed engine on).....it sometimes chatters while sitting there and will keep on chiming (ringing)....as if it cannot seem to lock into its exact posiition (you can also here some kind of control unit chattering under the rear speaker deck) If i just hit the mechanism with my hand in a downward motion it stops Sometimes when i move around in the seat too harshly...it starts it doing it again not sure what i can do to fix it?

I have a nice one with 52,000 sits low in the back and has shocks with springs over them I cannot seem to find online anything but a shock....i want the shock spring combo Hoping that lifts it where it belongs (there is no rust whatsoever so there is no sag due to that) TIA

had to torch the nuts to get it loose and off....did not have a replacement yet and still I took it for a test ride.....Steering back to normal!

got my 2003 impreza RS project car clutch and brakes done 2 things-- 1---how do you adjust the parking brake? Is it like the old Loyales...a cable adjustment nut under the P brake console? rear brake shoes have been adjusted at the wheels 2--the leather knob for the stick shift (5 spd) spims freely how can it be tightened.....and...how can it be removed(i dont see one single screw)...i have an alum. knob from another impreza i'd like to use

problem solved now how many arm chair quarterbacks are going to say..."of course that was the problem" haha at least it's done..whew! so when i was UNbolting the engine from the tranny...I took out the 2 bolts for to starter....since the starter was oxidized, it did not just drop out of its position--was kind of welded in So I was thinking to myself...no big deal...there is nothing engaged...i'll just leave it there. Engine came right out and starter stayed where it was so....i also left it there when putting engine back in....there were no clearance issues of the motor coming out,,,so i thought nothing of leaving it in place well....5 minutes after knocking it out with my mallet...the engine was in so somehow, there was enough interference...or perhaps just a shade of wiggle room missing while it was in its slot thats it my friends thanks for your assistance

okay,,,so I will answer my own question...LOL Its the sway bar end link I'm told it can be had as an aftermarket part at a reasonable price oI was also told just to lift wheels off ground to relieve the tension on the sway bar and replacement should be pretty easy

so was it okay that i just unbolted it? and I can just bolt it back on? I would put a new one on if i were keeping it