bgambino

no spin on filter I AM concerned about holding the tranny as it comes out i just have a floor jack...??? ALSO----i thought the axle shafts could not be slid off that easy...is ther enough play that they will actually slide enough to come off the splined shaft on the tranny?....i was afraid something at the wheel end needed to be disassembled con someone confirm?

what about the axle shafts??? How to get them pulled out for clearance? do you take the shift lever off from inside the car? and also some linkages below oh crap...i hate the idea of this So there is some kind of tranny adapter i can buy for my floor jack? rather than buying a transmission jack?

oh...it is fine in all forward gears...shifts totally normal I am afraid of getting a used one with its own problem...or with t bind I dont think i am going to get any miracle answers...but hopeful Whats involved in getting the tranny out? procedure? I will be working on my back with ramps,,,ughhhh!

98 outback wagon auto. Bought to flip Have done a fair amount on it When I got it I noticed a definite delayed "reverse" engagement I did a drain and refill and used the trans-x thinking it might help it did not...even after 800 miles did another drain and fill as the fluid was not very clean looking and hoped it would help Been using it as my daily driver for 2 months to make sure all is okay with everything else before i sell it Last week at work i go out at noon and no reverse...sort of made a small sound like it was going into reverse but nothing when pressing on gas...maybe just a slight sound drove around town...got back and reverse was working Did another drain and refill (each time is about a gallon) And the same since...cold start and no reverse...warms up and is back Yesterday and today tho...even after warm...no reverse interestingly tho...just now when i got home...i backed in from the road (down the driveway---downhill)...had it in reverse and coasting...give it a little gas and seems to work---definitely pushed the car faster But when almost stoped on flat ground...nothing (more of a load) So perhaps it is slipping... Is there ANY fix for this rather than some kind of rebuild? Maybe an "easy" fix for the tranny shop? probably not,,,.

So I bought this 98 OB wagon 2.5 automatic Now...when it starts,,,you would always here that sound...like when you just changed the oil and the pressure needed to build up? Not sure if it is the main bearings or what...but its due to the lack of built up oil pressure But this car did it always ...unless it was still warm In fact, on its maiden run,,,i noticed that at idle in drive, the oil light would flicker...i said oh crap! I bought it for a song so i expected anything I changed the oil to 20/50 and no light well...a few weeks later, theres a heavy oil leak from behind the t belt cover ends up one of the cam seals pushed out some and was leaking so i do a complete t belt/pulleys/wp/seals...and here's the thing I pulled the oil pump off to replace o-ring and make sure screws are tight behind the oil pump Well...a few were a bit loose and one was backed out several turns so i blue loctite them all in I never understood what this plate was all about and the screws...still dont,,and dont really care But guess what? The oil pressure when the car was off must have been drainning out becasue of this,,,because now...absolutely no knocking sound at cold start up!!! I'd ask if this is the reason but it has to be...I did nothing else Needless to say I was quite relieved...and i learned something new

got a 2003 4dr from my nieces insurance co. what a deal...some light front damage what years would the hood/headlights and grill be interchangeable? Also, this happens to be a 5spd I have always wondered bwhy it sounds SO different than say my 98 outback when cranking the starter It just sounds kind of......gee...not sure of the word to use....kind of whiney....louder...cheessier...hows that?LOL Just wondering if this is typical of the impreza 2.5's or could it just be the starter

this was the best line of the article IMHO.... (the older forester is a) utilitarian wagon design that seemed inspired by a grocery cart OH SO TRUE....pathetically behind the competitions sleeker styling...pretty typical of subaru over the decades (been driving then since 11/90...my trusty 1981 DL gutless 1.8 4dr sedan)

just did my separator plate yesterday...had a rear main seal on hand...but rear main was clean...only lower half of sep. plate was leaking (plastic)...while I have replaced the rear main before with no problem...i decided not to push my luck on this one...i'm just flipping it anyway

doing my 98 oil separator plate today...I really hate the limited access to the bolts that hold the drive plate to the torque convertor a socket wrench is a little too big...a box wrench can't do it Is someone using a soecial wrench or socket? thanks

I thought you were supposed to use some of that 3M gray ultra--something or other as a sealer...? sorry, I forget the name of the stuff...the anerobic sealer thats used on the oil pump....

98 outback I avoid pulling an engine whenever possible But i have to change that dang separator plate on a car I am flipping (THIS PLATE MAY BE THE SECOND WORSE DESIGN PROBLEM OF THIS ERA SOOB...next to the #1 HEADGASKET debacle) I've grabbed the intake manifold with straps before as there are no obvous hooks to grab....manifold is not the best route for sure Where does everyone else tie up to? Also...does anyone have any extra car fax reports they could run for me?

It may very well mean that you were not taking accurate readings before and NOW you are very over full keep the stick out overnight and then check it...that should be a very accurate reading

I have posted about this before...I have never seen a harder to read oil dipstick than these....I am driving a 96 and 98 outback wagon as well as a 2002 GT sedan...all have the same issue Best bet is to pull the stick and let the oil drain off the walls of the dipstick tube....THEN check it How long to wait? No clue> I have never waited that long I pull and retun stick as many times as it takes to clear the oil from the walls of the tube (wiping the stick each time of course) There's somthing odd about the design that is causing this...

Goro You can get it at the dealer...or depending if you have time...order it from 1st subaru(actually Walkers Renton Subaru in WA state) I JUST got a quote from them (Jon at jantrim@walkersrenton.com) for the same thing for my 98 outback wagon 2.5 Part Number/Description 806786040 :OIL SEAL - $8.59 11831AA210 :COVER OIL SEPARATOR - $24.80 800406140 :BOLT SOCKET - .$.28 Each x 6 Be careful...my local dealer gave me a similar # for the oil sep plate ...but when I asked why different from the above #...he said the one he pulled up was plastic...I had him use the above # and he looked up a bulletin and said "subaru is stupid" the way they do things...he said the above # should have been listed as the replacement (as it is metal)

I got a new 98 OB wagon 2.5 automatic I washed down the engine last week...put it on the road tis morning...I see a nice oil leakjust past the rear of the oil pan...does not look like the oil pan is wet,,,,its wet by the the power steering rack and the metal lines all around it are wet with motor oil I did not have my maglite to really look hard...but from a cursory look...I could not tell if it was the separator plate of not How can one be SURE that is what the problem is...I really dont want to pull the engine,,,what a shame

Thanks Duania Now I just have to decipher how to shut the dang thing off...I have no fob...so when I attached the battery, the doors autmatically locked...i don't want that to happen

thanks guys!

2000 Forester Front cornering lamp in fender got hit What years will fit? thanks

thanks guys I don;t have a fob and am just going to sell it

98 outback wagon what is this light...it was flashing ...it also appears to be a button...i just picked the car up to flip thanks

hanks John Anyone know if a97 2.5 sender works for a 96 2.2 engine? wha seals the water from leaking? does it have its own gasket?

96 legacy 2.2 Awhile back the gauge started reading only 1/4 the way up instead of the normal 1/2 way up It's not an air bubble issue...heat seems normal I took an infared temp gun and took readings on this car and also on my 96 2.5 outback 2.2 upper hose close to engine--163 degrees 2.5 upper hose close to engine--173 2.2 upper hose close to radiator--155 degrees 2.5 upper hose close to radiator--157 2.2 lower hose close to engine--145 degrees 2.5 lower hose close to engine--135 2.2 lower hose close to radiator--155 degrees 2.5 lower hose close to radiator--121 So I think it is just a faulty gauge sender Thoughts? WHere is it? I think someone said under the intake on pass side? Anyone have a photo or illustration of it? Can I scab one off a 97 2.5 OB intake? Do you use teflon tape on the threads? thanks

And please...no jokes like..."elbow grease" LOL any good chemical cleaners that get the brown film off...bought the rims like this thanks

John Great tire calculator...thanks! looks like tire clearance should be ok...I am assuming the subaru rims from 96 compared to 02 will bolt up but will try it maybe today and see