bgambino

no..not a turbo haha,,,you still doubt the cat wire thing---I will take a photo ok...in the morning...I will align the crank sprocket perfectly and see how the cam marks look Its not a tooth off if u put a straight edge on your screen it may be a maximum of 1/2 tooth off....... I rally appreciate the help...! are my symptoms typical of on tooth off? I did not do the pink.,....and this is the first t belt job that we are aware of...she bought it with 69k and not has 105k

ok...for some reason it will not allow me to attach the final photo,,,what else is going to go wrong??? trust that the pink mark is lined up PERFECTLY with the above notch

ok...I could have backed the crank up to get a slightly better alignment...but it looks fine overall\ car not running exactly as it should (see original post (GUYS.....I NEED HELP) the only other thing I did was remove crank sensor to be sure it was not rusted in place for the future---it came out easy--I put some anti seize on the sides of it--installed and wire put back also the 2 cat wires unplug--they are in the way of removing pass side t belt cover this is depressing any ideas are needed I looked for disconnected hose or wire and nothing Pic 6 in next post..must have been too large a file

Here are the pics I took of the belt/marks before removing my t belt (see next post for after pics)

Nip I have a green 96 OB wagon with a CCR block with 38k on it ---174k on the body.... Got to pay a guy $200 to do the Duty C---was going to try it with Gary's advice and help....but I don't have the stomach for it now...too busy I am going to work with him Hey Gary-----tell me again....how do you break that piece off the tranny? This mechanic who is doing it has never done one

gary---you go in there even with the fans attached?? And-----I have to compress the tensioner in a vise.....sigh

Hey Nipper I never had it happen before,,,,crap I should have rotated it a few times and looked again Guess it could be worse------out comes the radiator again... 1---what about getting heat? what a pain in the butt I poured antifreeze into the upper hose...till it started coming out of the small water pump hose....sheesh 2--I saw that there is one of those rubber plugs on top of engine with access to the bell housing----I was going to stick something in there to hold it while tightening the crank pulley-----but, it is almost right under the throttle body......virtually impossible to get at it...dumb Nip---how is old Blue?

ok...nieces 07 impreza 2.5 did t belt , pulleys,,,everything Before assembling everything,,I started it,,,seemed fine,,,did not rev it...seemed to idle fine 5 days later (tonight) I put all back together and start it (finished job) Seemed to take longer than usual to start.....idled and stammered a bit...revved it... seemed to idle fine but...... when I punch the accelerator...has a bit of hesitation....and when revs come down, it passes the normal idle speed and almost goes to 0 rpm(almost stalling) and then recovers idle I swear to god I triple checked my 2 marks and the mark on the crank sprocket...it was perfect Pulled the tensioner pin and all still looked ok (<--pretty sure anyway) CRAAAAAPPPP I thought maybe some wire was disconnected or something I then saw that I had the 2 O2 sensor wired disconnected still (pass side front--close to upper rad hose) That did not help Noticed a little noise developing....was the crank pulley...guess I did not have tight enough--tightened I cleared the codes (it has had the P0031 for months)....nothing changed ...in fact the mil stayed on (and the cruise light---this is what it has been doing for awhile---but I was surprised the light did not go out when I cleared the code---tried it twice....and still the P0031 was the only code) thoughts PLEASE.......god I hate re-doing a job can I get in there tomorrow without removing radiator? to check? ANd of course filling with antifreeze...got no heat ...I hate these cooling systems and trying to fill after t stat is removed

let me answer all of the above --yes got the water pump (no it was not in the kit)...OEM...I buy from walker renton Subaru in washinton state got oil pump o-ring, t stat...cam crank seals --T belt quality IS in=mportant to me---in fact I used to toss the import experts belt in the trash and invest in an oem,,,,,,now THATS anal haha this was a hi perf blue belt....a plain gates one would have been fine if it made the kit cheaper I am going to get that gates kit next time I need one Hey-----how does everyone fill the coolant so as not to have air entrapment issues I take a long neck funnel and stick it in the upper rad hose ----slowly pour into the engine...and leave the t stat housing cracked open and wait for it to start dripping out----hmmm ,,,altho usually when I do the t belt job I replace all hoses and have the firewall Heater core exiting hose disconnected...and I wait for water to flow out of IT first My niece is not replacing hers.... anyway....let me know how u all do it

I have used the import experts kits on ebay b4 and bought one recently for my nieces 07 impreza I was a little surprised at the 239.00 price tag tho it had the blue gates belt but I did not really need a hi perf belt Just installed it But this morning I happened to run across this http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCK304-Timing-Belt-Component/dp/B002R8HMAY/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=Impreza%7C62&Year=2007%7C2007&carId=002&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive its 100 cheaper sheesh anyone ever use these gates kits interesting that a couple of the import expert bearings did not seem to be double

so I just did a t belt job on my nieces 07 impreza....that to some of you for the assistance so its 11:30 PM and Im thinking...how will I tighten the crank bolt? The older subys had that open port at the top back of engine in order to catch onto something and lock the engine What about this vintage? thanks

super what about the 1/2 moon guard over the belt...is that supposed to be gapped or is there no adjustment (just bolt in place)? --and what about the jiggly thing on the thermosata? for some reason I thought that was to be near ground level 6 oclock ...on her car it is at 12 oclock

can I start the car after the T belt is installed just to hear it run (will it start/run without the alternator hooked up?)

fairtax...thanks...and especially for the reminder to remove the bolts of the cam sprocket before removing belt...! Yes I will try to remove belt while all is lined up...and take photos I should get one of those chain wrenches to hold the cam sprockets for tightening the bolts (with an old belt around it of course) For those without the proper wrench...how do YOU hold the sprocket? I have used a piece of old belt and a large vise grip clamped on both ends of belt...somehow I have been able to hold it enough Does anyone use an impact gun on low setting? not sure it could fit I bought the import experts kit on ebay...happens to have one of those blue T belts...supposed to be hi performance (forgot the brand off hand) Usually I discard this belt and buy the Subaru one....but this kit was the most I have ever paid...$239.00 Since it is a hi perf belt with brand name...I'll use it

ok...my nieces 2007 Impreza RS Starting T belt job today *(with seals--o-ring---w pump--thermostat etc) I've done the 96 +/- legacys/outback...mine and my sons this should be same want to refresh my memory---- 1--when lining up cams and crank for T belt install......the crank sprocket has some kind of arrow or mark.....but ALSO the middle timing mark on the flywheel has to be lined up...RIGHT? this ensures that cranks is aligned properly..? 2----as for the cam sprockets.....as long as the marks line with the plastic cover I am okay right? I mean I could rotate it 360 degrees and the valves are always in the correct position right? thanks a lot-----I should be ready to install the belt by 5 or 6 pm...who is online today??? LOL

John ...going back to the dutyC Can you please give me a blow-by-blow outline of the procedure?? You seem to be the big kahuna on the board as far as sharing knowledge---thanks very much I have the drive shaft out---drives so nicely without the T bind Drop exhaust would be next I assume Do I HAVE to loosen/remove the tranny-to-body bracket? or can I just start unbolting the rear section of tranny? When bolts are out....how to break it free?? It's filled with fluid? Once off....does Duty C just have 2 bolts to remove? Then attach new one with the "2 gaskets" (can you explain about the 2 gaskets? or will it be obvious once I get there?) what about getting the end back on the tranny? any tricks or possible problems (I WILL BE ON MY BACK---sigh) What seals the casing to the tranny? gasket...sealer? thank you greatly!!! Bill

John Nice photos of the 95 T belt job I have to do my nieces T belt etc on her 2007 impreza Is there any difference in doing the 2007 than the 1995? (aside from a different tensioner)? thanks a lot

thanks John...! WOW...no one has messed with those clutches...! I sure ain't then.... I did the secret hand shake 2 months ago and it threw the code for the duty c While I'd like to do it...I am afraid to mess with it if we have no experience on this board ------so order the Duty C (called a valve body assembly? also)....and get 2 gaskets? No adhesive is used on the gaskets? What about the tail piece ? How does that seal against the back of the tranny? I assume ATF is swimming in this space yes?

Hey fellas I need to do my duty C 1996 OB wagon 2.5L automatic 1--Is there any procedure anywhere that outlines this procedure?? pictures too?? searched here but did not find it here 2--what about the clutches you guys talk about replacing at the same time?? SOMEONE must know this procedure and have done it Can anyone provide some guidance? I don't even know what these clutches look like thanks very much

THANKS GARY.....!!! I guess this will be a summer project Anyone got info or a link to doing the duty C and clutches in there?

Nipper...you're still here!!! okay all....here's what I found out I put fuse in FWD holder and still had the TB (BTW...did someone say there should be a FWD lite on the dash console? there isn't) So...I found the directions (pasted below)---did both and got 2-4...Duty C solenoid SO.....am I correct that it is NOT good to continue driving like this? It cant be right?? I will put my 2002 Legacy GT on the road if not..... This sounds like a project..... I did some searching on this updated site (its new to me since I have not been lurking in quite some time).......and it seems that the search function is not as "friendly" as before (I did the advanced search too) It just did not bring up as much as I thought it should have-----I dont know....maybe its just me Would there be a sticky perhaps that I could go to to see a detailed list of instructions to do this job...with pics??? Including the pitfalls that can happen during the job? And Gary=-----what are those clutches? I should do this since I am in there? Definitely a job I am going to do on my back this summer....sigh Here is the procedure I found for checking the TCU code--- You probably have a bad duty-c solenoid. Check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle.

thanks guy (sorry gary...I should have mentioned u too!) I'll try the fuse tomorrow Is it safe to drive around with the fuse in place (assuming the TB disappears) for a month or 2? How tough is replacing the Duty C? Cost? of parts? thanks guys Love this board

1996 Outback wagon picked up with 134,000 did ccr block, valvle job....all OEM replacement parts(T belt iders,WP, wires etc) now 166,000 a few weeks back I noticed the AT temp light flash a few times,,,,but did not repeat often Did the 16 flash a few times also Now....AT light is doing the 16 flash at each start up And can definitely feel the bind Did a drain and refill...but my fluid has been changed by me regularly...so it drained nice and red and clean I dont remember...is there a fuse to pull to temporarily relieve this?? And please tell me this is the DUTY C solenoid.....rather than true torque bind.... I dont know anything about replacing the duty c but remember reading here about it I know there is much info here about this...dont have the time to look immediately...and I know there are kind souls here who are eager to chime in...thank u all Is nipper, fairtax and eggleston still here????

I had the same question yesterday....I know it was not there at the top the first few minutes I logged in for the very first time on this updated format....it somehow appeared a bit later...go figure

update....this is my sons car....when he called me, I walked him thru hooking up my code reader--thats when we found the 0302 code I had him erase it. He then started the car, and of course no change. Several hours later I get home ...start it and it runs like the normal champion it is....drove it around...later he went to the mall-- 35 min. trip....everything is fine. What could cause such an intermittent problem like this?? I hate this kind of thing as you never know when it will strike again..... oh one more thing...when he first started it and it was running rough...the CEL was flashing...I never heard of it flashing b4...what signifcance is this?