bgambino

hmmm...interesting subject Perhaps I'll get two new tires and be done with it then do the fluid changes I'm intrigued by the switch idea gary What confuses me though is.....why would it be "locked" 4wd Isnt the switch basically taking the place of installing and removing the fuse all the time? Another question If the duty C burns out....is 4wd then impossible?

funny coincidence....2 hours ago I went to a local junk yard for a used front hub included the caliper and decent rotor (neither of which I need). they tore up the ball joint boot adding to my work though $65 And why was I buying it?? I had a bad front bearing on my 96 OB wagon Took the hub off and brought to this mechanic guy I know of And guess what...he tries to press it out and breaks the arms off for the tie rod etc......just my luck I plan on just putting this on and NOT having him touch the bearing I am hoping it is good I'll save the OEM bearings (I bought 2 online from Walker Renton) and seals/clips

I was thinking of the same thing....pulling the fuse when it snows (assuming I can't do an easy fix) Gary I thought that if putting the fuse IN solves the torque bind.....that the duty C was ok.... If its not the tires or the fluid....a duty c is better than some kind of rear tranny rebuild The one problem with your tape measure thing is this the 2 front times are mounted If I were to look for another set of tires with the same circumference(for the back)....they would need to be mounted and inflated to accurately compare or conversely,,,,,I would need to break the bead on the good tires...take a measurement,,,,,,and shop for a new set of tires with the same I don't want to buy 4 tires if I can get away with 2 Anyone ever go thru this exercise? Is it possible to actually find the circumference of differing tire models online (I am doubting it) thanks all

So I recently bought a 95 legacy 4dr sedan with 2.2 and TB I would like to find 2 matching tires as fronts are more worn....but the exact toyo model is not in production anymore and I am not finding any leftovers anywhere yet--(Toyo Spectrum 185/70/14 in case anyone has free time and wants to search LOL) I have to do the 3 flushes also My question is: Am I doing harm to the Duty C by using the FWD fuse all the time? If so, I have to pull the rear shaft instead right? It went completely away by putting the fuse in If all easy attempts do not sure it......what will I need to do? Get the rear part of tranny off and have it rebuilt??

so this mechanic I took my 96 OB steering knuckle to tried pushing the bearing out and broke the arms (tie rod/ball joint) off the thing Great....! I was trying to look online at Subaru parts places to see what knuckles are compatible seems they don't even sell new ones (would be ungodly expensive I suppose) I have a 97 legacy 4door parts car...would that be the same knuckle as the 96 OB wagon?

what I am pointing to is the sheet metal water shield.....for the brake protection Does anyone bother to replace these if shot? yes I suppose salt damage anyone know what years would be compatible with 03 RS axle housings? my inspection guy would not bother looking under car...been going there for years

See pic....picked up a nice 2nd car for my sone...03 impreza 5spd with 44,000 miles...driven by 50+ year old woman took good care of But low mileage means a lot of sitting Body and underside is good the brake job I am in the middle of is one of the worst ever--particularly the front--rear is not bad First, the 17mm bolts holding the caliper frame were bad enough that I could not get a wrench/socket on them VISE GRIP time And since they may never have been removed...heat was required...man did that suck the axle housing behind the rotor had so much rust...I chipped of maybe 1/8" thick of material....I'm not kidding I will degrease/prime/paint and maybe shoot some rust proofing on the area (maybe not the rust proofing) I was almost wondering to get new housings....but that would probably be steep$$---then bearings--I don't want to do all that I already have to do all calipers which I did not expect Anyway....there are sheet metal shields behind the rotors (my finger is pointing to shat is left) Is it worth replacing or not really matter? Not sure what they cost new...subbie dealer online? thanks

John Thanks....I have a 95 legacy though...you said 96-99 springs would fit...so would 95 not fit? Woodswagon----yours looks great...I gotta do that to mine

crap----I just wrote this out and hit a key and it got wiped out Here we go again I never messed with struts b4 1--If I shop for used parts--96-99 OB or 98-2003 forester.....I wont know how good a condition they are in--risky?--they would look like the attached pic right? 2--john---if I but the Kyb's....will they come with springs? If not, then I probably can't use my legacy springs right?..then where am I 3--sway bars and trailing brackets were mentioned above....what needs to be done to do the job right--I don't know what a trailing arm is swap sway bars too? and the brackets that hold them? I am used to getting out of my 96 OB...the difference between that and the 95 legacy is UGHHHH I am going to swap front seats..... anyone know if Nipper is still around?

96 OB wagon Hmmm I might have thrown out the pcs...nuts

not sure if I described it correctly....the notched metal ring that the ABS sensor reads Well...I was struggling to get the cv axle out and broke a pc of the ring off (2") What will happen/ ABS cease functioning altogether? How do I replace it

so I recently bought this very sweet 95 legacy 2.2L 4 dr sedan, 124K super clean Got a T bind issue to deal with later...but... I want to get this thing higher...I hate how it feels getting out of it I know Nipper did BIG BLUE.....can you guys tell me what is involved? Also...would love to put some 15" rims I have on it (its 14 stock)....if I lift it, I should be able to right?

thanks all Yes the FWD light came on I have not localized the racheting sound...car is parked with no insurance...maybe when weather breaks I will try listening at the cul de sac....any tips on how to diagnose? Hang out the back door near the ground while someone else does donuts? I will do the flush when the time comes...and tires? well the fronts have some side wear...but center of tread looks fairly comparable to rears side observation---Steering wheel is cocked to almost 1 o'clock....yet the car is steady at 65mph...does not wander...

okay men.....slapped plates on the car and drove home...30 min drive That car is sweet...smooth shifting, quiet...you just cannot find the mid 90s legacy 2.2L with low miles...I am excited...my sons 96 has 231,000 and still running strong Anyway....I put the fuse in and.....all symptoms stopped...did 360s just fine Of course I am a little disappointed...I'd rather have a u-joint issue than torque bind I am not putting it on the road for perhaps 2 months,,,,,but my first things will be tires, alignment and several tranny flushes will report back at that time Any additional thoughts will be much appreciated If none of this fixes it....what is the cure? (since the AT light is not flashing...it's not the Duty C right?)

I wont have the car for a few days... so what could happen when I put the fuse in? and what does each result lead me to? my 96 had 16 AT light flashes...and then I did the diagnosis and got the code for Duty C There were no AT flashes...altho...I did not look to see if the light was functioning.... Is there one of these lights on the 95?

here it is

I have experienced torque bind before Currently have it on my 96OB wagon --took rear drive shaft out till my mechanic comes back from florida...and we will attempt it The few times I have felt it....it was like this: a real feeling of braking while doing 360's on dry pavement Also....the tires would make a definite sound as they turn at different rpms.....you would hear the tread fighting against the pavement With sand/grit on the pavement and you would hear the tires slipping So today...I bought a sweet 95 legacy L 4 dr with 123,000--automatic 2.2 But, it has something that seems like TB...but it does not feel or sound like what I have experience b4 in BJs parking lot,,,,,,doing 360's the tires really made no fighting sounds against the pavement,,,,it didn't even really feel like it was braking It was odd....I will try my best to describe the sound/feel Imagine a door whose hinges where not oiled...and the door could not swing smoothly Instead, when you start pushing it---swinging it......it jumps 1/8"...and then another 1/8 and another and another etc...thru the whole swing it like a fine "ratcheting" sound I don't know it that helps or makes it more confusing All tires were same brand...tread seemed fairly close altho fronts definitely had some alignment issue wear Seemed inflated ok ...but my eye is not a gauge Tranny fluid smelled ok..looked ok...but not just changed I put $200 down (2200 total) I HAD to buy this car...its clean!--and my sons 96 2.2 has 235k on it....the vintage and motor are fantastic I forgot when I saw it today about pulling the fuse...I assume the 95 has the FWD fuse? Would someone explain again what it means? 1--pull fuse and nothing changes? 2--pull fuse and TB disappears? thanks guys

I know this sounds odd but there is a method to my madness my o2 code is illuminated (P0134) If the rear O2 sensor is looking for a difference in air quality compared to he front....if I totally had the o2 sensor hanging in atmosphere (simply hangin in the engine compartment.......shouldn't that get rid of my code light? the reason I ask is this.......I had a double o2 cheater installed for a few years as luck would have it....it rotted and broke off If will be a job taking the converter off and trying to get the old threaded part out....and my inspection is due (NY) in a few weeks I need the code cleared this will give me additional time to fix the darn thing

thank you John......!!!

I put this car back on the road last week---my summer car it has the stock alarm and fobs So...I was not carrying the fob yet...was in my drawer at home I was at home depot and locked the doors I came out and unlocked the passenger side door and the alarm started blaring Went around to drivers seat...put key in and tried turning on in hopes it would stop It didn't and seemed to time out in 30 seconds or 45 I tried starting the car again...nothing...and the alarm started blaring again Did this a few times regardless of the stares haha I thought I was screwed and stuck and would have to call my sister to bring the fob I decided to try rolling the car in the lot and pop starting it...thankfully there was a small incline was not sure it would work...but it did So.....how do I handle this alarm without the fob??? I am afraid to lock it now...and I don't like if I have to HAVE the fob at all times thanks guys

2008 impreza 2.5i 5spd hatchback Leaking power steering rack How hard is it to replace? Do they sell rebuilt units? was thinking od going to look at this car for sale

ok men...... there was nothing wrong..... After opening it up...and checking all the marks...it was perfect The reason I thought something was wrong is that I am not accustomed to how her throttle and acceleration are Its different than my 96 OB and 02 GT And, maybe there is an adjustment needed? What I don't like about it is that there is too much (IMO) free play in the throttle peddle before the throttle increases that's #1 #2-----when you rev it....and let go....it drops PAST the normal idle speed of ~700.....down to 200-250....and then recovers You guys know anything about these 2 things?

My 2002 legacy gt has had a whistling sound at higher rpms (5 speed) I remember hearing some talk about this a few years ago here What is the source of this sound I just di a T belt job with idlers, w pump on my nieces 07 impreza rs.....and it has that slight whistling sound at higher rpms weird

ok....I am going to take a closer look this morning...I SURE HOPE that the problem is just being off one tooth I will report back later

what do you mean....you can see the mark on the engine casing...look just above the guard BTW.... 1---what is the gap for the guard? 2--what is the crank pulley bolt torque spec./