Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Separating block. Frozen bolts in coolant passages


  • Please log in to reply
2 replies to this topic

#1 lneulicht

lneulicht

    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 41 posts
  • Charlotte, NC

Posted 02 December 2013 - 02:10 PM

I put a salvaged engine in my wife's '97 Legacy Postal 2.2L. Since the old engine worked so well for 400,000 miles I'm trying to rebuild it so we'll have a spare. The bolts holding the halves of the block together have come out nicely but for the 12 point 12 mm bolts that have been washed in coolant for 16 years. I haven't applied full force to them with my long breaker bar because it seems that the bolt heads are likely to strip at some point. Then I would have to drill them out with a bit extension since they are recessed between the cylinders. I've soaked them in PB blaster for a couple of days, but since the block is aluminum and the bolts steel I understand that perhaps ammonia would be a more effective anti-corrosive. I guess I'll try that? Would the use of an impact wrench be more likely or less likely to strip the bolt heads than gradually increasing  torque with a breaker bar? By the way I'm surprised that the cylinder walls still have their full component of honing marks after all those miles.



#2 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 9,284 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 02 December 2013 - 02:39 PM

Use a good fitting 12 point.

 

I preffer a 3/8 drive to a 1/2" because it's smaller profile.  A big fat 1/2" socket can jam against the outside of the cylinder wall and exert undo pressure sideways against the lip.  Espescially on 2.5 but still on 2.2 it's tight.

 

Can't emphasize enough though how you need a good 12 point, seated fully. Then give 'er a go.  They'll pop loose.



#3 lneulicht

lneulicht

    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 41 posts
  • Charlotte, NC

Posted 03 December 2013 - 08:50 AM

Thanks. I'll pick up a "fresh" socket at Sears.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users