lneulicht
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Everything posted by lneulicht
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It is also possible, if the car has very high mileage, that the passage in the intake manifold from the egr valve to behind the throttle body is clogged.
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RockAuto.com lists brake shoes for the 2000 Legacy. Perhaps you could compare the part numbers with those for the 99.
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If I follow your conceptual process...I have pulled struts that are so deteriorated that they move freely, allowing a spring to find its length with no resistance whatsoever. If the spring was permanently compressed (bent) the strut would be shorter
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I realized the fronts were worn one time when I lifted the front end to do some work and bearing balls ran out onto the garage floor. I had changed the struts some time before without changing the mounts
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It's a little late for this to be helpful now, but... I bought Mevotech mounts for the rear of my wife's 97 Postal Legacy. The left mount bushing tore loose on the first day and when she got home from the route the strut shaft was banging on the cover plate. The right mount bushing tore loose on the second day. Since I didn't have time to get replacements, I reinstalled the original mounts each night. (The ones that had 420,000 miles on them and were still okay). They are still working about 15,000 miles later. What a waste of time that was.
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Odd that the AT temp light is not flashing on start up. Doesn't that indicate that there is no transmission code (or that the bulb is burned out)? I wonder if the OBDII code will provide any useful information.
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Did you try an oil additive?
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Deleted. Seems right to me this morning.
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Perhaps the OP is asking if the crank gear makes two rotations to one cam gear rotation. This would be the case with any 4 cycle engine and it would be possible to have the timing off 180 degrees. I don't know what kind of engine damage would occur on his interference engine if he had the timing off like this. Edit: This post is incorrect
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Message me your email address and I will send you the PDF file I downloaded from my county library's automotive database. I don't think I can attach a pdf here.
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It's been years but I imagine the oil additive was something like Motor Medic Valve Medic. The gas treatment could have been anything that mentioned valves. I didn't use the Seafoam that time, but have used it since too decarbonize cylinders, after having seen it used on Youtube. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Maybe someone else will have better or more specific suggestions.
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Sounds like the symptoms our 91 Postal Legacy had. Decided based on a radio show that the valves were sticking open when the engine heated from load, so it would gradually lose compression. Fixed it by using an oil additive that cleaned the valves and a decarbonizing gas additive, but it sounds like you've already tried that? Did you try adding something like Seafoam gradually into the intake manifold?
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Yeah, didn't see much point in making the reference since I'm skeptical. I couldn't get the bearing off through the opening with the transmission out of the car. I ended up having to pull the case apart.
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An unfortunate possibility is that the nylon speedometer gears are worn and slipping. These are considered by all but a few to be accessible only by pulling the transmission. Our Postal Legacys seem to eat them every 150,000 miles or so. The speedometers work intermittently for a while and then quit entirely. Hope this isn't what is going on for you.
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My county library subscribes to a database (Auto Repair Reference Center) with book times, wiring diagrams, etc. I can log onto it from home. You might want to check your library.
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My brother in Raleigh has used this guy to work on his Saabs for years . He doesn't mention Subarus on the website but it wouldn't hurt to email him.
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Am I the only driver who finds high intensity headlamps anti-social? Heavy duty nylon sockets are available to handle the extra heat. I'd recommend Rockauto but they are not in my good graces at the moment.
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Flat rate book I'm looking at lists .6 hours for thermostat and .2 for an oil change. Parts should cost $40 or so ? Flat rate for the timing belt is 2.6 hours
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And no need to do the boot until the axle goes bad, unless you object to the grease that might get slung around the torn boot. We've driven with torn boots for 20,000 before the axle itself went bad.
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No need to do the CV boot until the axle itself goes bad, then replace the whole axle. It will start to make noise when turning and can run like that for quite a while..
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The wife's mail route was 90+ miles at the time. I think it took a couple of days on the route. I'll ask her if she remembers when she gets off work today. It being pre-Christmas she should finish her route and be home by Dark-thirty.
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If I understood correctly the explanation was that as one valve lags the cam due to carbonization on its stem the engine runs hotter locally and makes the other valves' carbonized stems bind as well. So the engine progressively loses compression.
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It was more than 10 years ago. I would have used an oil treatment from Advance Auto. Possibly Motor Medic Valve Medic?
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Have you checked compression? My wife's '91 experienced varying loss of power at about that mileage. I added decarbonizer to the oil and gas and fixed it. The dealer was unable to diagnose the problem after having the car for 8 days. They said they thought it was "something electronic." (Yes morons, that's the reason I brought it in to you. You have scan tools that I don't.) I heard a segment on Cartalk about Toyota valves sticking open due to carbonization and the symptoms matched ours so I took the car back and tried the cure. It worked.
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Thanks. I'll pick up a "fresh" socket at Sears.