newtosubaru Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Hey guys, ive always been a huge fan of reliable motors, but who isnt, I have this wagon a neighbor will sell me for 300 dollars, runs and drives, just could run better of course, please let me know how yall would feel on a purchase such as so, no rust or major defects with paint body or interrior as well. Thanks for readin and replyin guys, and if u do reply entitle a short list on need to do things, reasearch shows of course timing assembly with the pulleys and water pump, but the (HLA's) as well ? I just dint wanna do crank bearings and ring, although rings would be a wise idea, but if I go that far im doing a total overhaul, I wanna stay low budget but reliable, havnt owned a car in soo long, damn dui's... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Man, if it's 300 bucks, you can't go wrong no matter what you do. You'll make that back in scrap if you junk it.timing belts like you said, water pump, good tune-up with NGK plugs. Check the suspension out, ball joints and such. Brakes maybe?Throw gas in it and drive it till something breaks that you deem to expensive to fix. Junk or sell whole or for parts. If you sell it for parts you might even *make* money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newtosubaru Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 Thanks man, your right im sure people always seem to still be dealing with the old model subarus, btw failed to mention the owner had just replaced brakes and radiator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Yeah. $300. is a great price for any car. Those first generation legacys ar great car. Super reliable, non interference motors. Simple to work on. Cheap to find parts. Go for it. Nothing to loose. In most areas scrap dealers will always pay about $400 for a whole car just for the metal value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 if it has oil in ot go for it. 300 bucks is a player deal for a driver and you can recover that salvage if it fails. Don't bother with rebuilding the bottom end. Just do maintenance and keep up with fluids and engine seals. It would be more economic you get a lower mile later model short block than doing a rebiild, which leaves room for failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newtosubaru Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 You guys are so right! Easy move here, ill have pictures come wednesday then! Ill post so yall can see whats up, thanks for the response everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) yes , buy it. but don't be surprised to see oil leaks. most oil leaks can be addressed when the timing belt is done. and if you are new to subarus, read up here before you do ANY self maintenance. better safe than sorry. Edited May 30, 2014 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newtosubaru Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 yes , buy it. but don't be surprised to see oil leaks. most oil leaks can be addressed when the timing belt is done. and if you are new to subarus, read up here before you do ANY self maintenance. better safe than sorry. as is why I really joined this forum, and this is all sounding well, because it does have a leak by front driver side timing case it appears, ive read its more than likely the oil pump? Either way I cant wait to pull the ej out and examine, I was quoted $260 for timing belt the pullys and water pump...., seem accurate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) I was quoted $260 for timing belt the pullys and water pump...., seem accurate? sounds high. you can get them for about $100 . ''theimportexperts'' on ebay used to offer a kit w/ water pump for ~$125 (plus ship.) w/o pump for $90. not sure if they still do. they will likely have something offered, but it may not be all or exactly what you want. www.rockauto.com or amazon will also have good prices even if they do not have the complete ''kit'' you need. Edited May 30, 2014 by johnceggleston 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 You can find a much better price for the timing components and water pump on Amazon or eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) if you are going to pull the engine, then you can repair ALL of the leak points. but you don't really need to pull it to do the timing belt job, or most of the oil leaks. one leak on the rear of the block requires an engine pull to fix. doing the repairs with the engine out og the car is easier, faster, but by the time you r&r the engine, they are probably about the same time. maybe a little longer if the r&r is your first. Edited May 30, 2014 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newtosubaru Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 I sure appretiate all the help guys! I will deff check out ebay or amazon, never thought of those as legit. I never purchase anything over the net, no cell phone, no bank account, I stay old school, hints OS subaru.. but now that I know u dont have to pull the motor for timing belt replacement, might be a better idea than pulling axles and all and potentially doing something I might not want to. Thanks again yo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 If it's leaking a lot out the back of the engine. (You'll know cause you'll get white smoke from under the hood and a burning smell when the car isn't moving - the oil separator plate leaks right onto the y pipe of the exhaust.) then you may consider pulling the engine for leaks. If it's only minor leakage, I just make sure to keep oil levels topped off on older/high mileage subarus. If the leaks are anything else then no need to pull the engine. Most stuff can be done with the timing components as mentioned. While you're in there the valve covers and little spark plug grommets can be good to swap too. Be good to the car and it should take care of you. We are selling our 2000 outback at 341,000 in good running condition to the happy new owner this weekend. I'm confident that it will make it to 400,000 before much work will be needed on it. And the 2000 is a less reliable generation than those early legacys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newtosubaru Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 If it's leaking a lot out the back of the engine. (You'll know cause you'll get white smoke from under the hood and a burning smell when the car isn't moving - the oil separator plate leaks right onto the y pipe of the exhaust.) then you may consider pulling the engine for leaks. If it's only minor leakage, I just make sure to keep oil levels topped off on older/high mileage subarus. If the leaks are anything else then no need to pull the engine. Most stuff can be done with the timing components as mentioned. While you're in there the valve covers and little spark plug grommets can be good to swap too. Be good to the car and it should take care of you. We are selling our 2000 outback at 341,000 in good running condition to the happy new owner this weekend. I'm confident that it will make it to 400,000 before much work will be needed on it. And the 2000 is a less reliable generation than those early legacys. where you said its leaking onto the y pipe is exactly right, it was pretty excessive I saw it on its last drive(neighbors car being bought) but hes cleaned the motor off very well and it would just make it easier working on, and thats the "oil seperator plate"? Easy fix ay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Once you have the engine out, it's a pretty easy fix. Impact driver with a phillips head will back the screws out. The 90s cars had a plastic plate that wore out over time and leaked. The dealer part is a steel upgrade that fixes the problem. Do a search on here for it and get the part number. It's in the ballpark of about $15-$30 I think. Typical leakage of higher mileage and/or older subarus. That's usually the reason why many of us associate a burning oil smell and subarus. On a subaru it's a normal, non worrisome thing. Most other makes of car and it would spell trouble to smell burning oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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